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The fire will die out quickly in a closed cabinet.
It takes force to punch a CO2 cartridge. You will need a system inspired from a hand grenade firing pin to punch it (they are battle proven to work in adverse condition ). You can't punch it in advance and rely on a valve that is likely to leak or block in the long run.
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MKSA
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General
How did you make sure all your rods were perfectly // ? If not perfectly // the PTFE bushings will adapt while the Igus will bind.
I can also see they are very short. Igus is then more likely to bind.
If thermal expansion has not been taken care of, here too, dimension change will lead to Igus binding while the PTFE will conform.
What condemned these PTFE thick wall bushings in many applicatio
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MKSA
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
I like the creativity and ingenuity of this approach. But my experience over now 4 machines is that so called chiwin rails which can be had for $15 a piece outperform all rod systems whatever bearings/bushings you use. What do you estimate are the costs of your system? I swapped rods for rails on my corexy and saw a noticeable jump in print quality.
Genuine Japanese or German rail
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MKSA
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General
DD, what make you decide on a Smoothieboard instead of a Duet ?
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MKSA
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CoreXY Machines
QuoteTrakyan
The igus ones are a bit finicky about their fit, they need a pretty specific pressfit to end up at their proper final tolerance. Another thing is they sell a lot of different grades. Their high grade (expensive) ones seem to work well, but the cheaper ones hobbyists are more likely to be buying seem to give people grief.
- I should have specified my question was directed to the OP w
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MKSA
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General
QuoteOrigamib
QuoteMKSA
You are half way to a Ultimaker. Keep going.
Why? Ultimaker has weight limitations that a standard axis does not. It also relies on the use of rods and bearings and the slop associated unless you buy quality
Standard cartesian designs have the advantage of easily adding extra tools, direct drive or even multiple X gantries
?
Compare the proposed design to the Ultimaker.
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MKSA
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General
So why these PTFE bushings work and not the Igus bushings (I am very happy with my own) or sintered bronze (fine too but messy because of the lubrication).
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MKSA
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General
You are half way to a Ultimaker. Keep going.
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MKSA
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General
I doubt the needle valve can be patented as it is a well known and used type of valve to meter and control various type of fluids. The inventor and patent are history now.
Even applied in a 3D printer as it is already used in extrusion, injection molding.
What is innovative in this patent is the two heads rocking to take position although the idea is similar to the old turret production lathe,
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MKSA
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Quotecwaa
I don't understand why people use rods and linear bearing/bushings when you can have wheels with bearings and a much smoother and simpler approach.
People who can properly design, make, adjust have no issue with rods and bushings. In many case it is a very good if not the only choice. Simple, very light (for carriage, we speak in gram when others speak in 100g), silent, no lubrication;
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MKSA
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General
IGUS bushings or made with filament, sintered bronze or iron work very well. BUT they need to be precisely mounted, and above all, they must be properly aligned otherwise excessive friction and binding will inevitably occur.
Linear ball bearings won't as they will "align" the poorly made flexible frames which are the norm in the hobby 3D printer. The "imported" one are furthemore crappy but at l
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MKSA
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QuoteTrakyan
^That right there is what I'll be doing, just not for coreXY
@MKSA
I'm trying to make the openscad script easy to use and user friendly, some people can't be bothered and would rather it automated. Besides, these would be very small differences, a couple of mm at most. This would result in minuscule triangulation errors for a result machine with a 200-300mm belt span, let along the
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MKSA
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Quotesatsuma
Hello all,
when printing ABS on my delta printer I had a hard time to figure out a bed coating that really keeps the prints from warping off the bed.
Somewhere in a discussion thread I read that UHU stic would be a good material to fix the prints on the bed. So I looked in my office box and found an old UHU stic, that really worked well. After the stic was empty I bought a new one in
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MKSA
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Quoteappjaws1
Issue solved.
I was printing inside out instead of outside in
Its like for underwears, watch for the seams !
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MKSA
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CoreXY Machines
Quoteetfrench
Did you read the specs in the links I provided? They have all of the data needed to make your calculations.
p.s. Gates belts are not that expensive.
And when you have done the computation, what do you do ? You just measure to make sure. then you wonder why there is a difference, then ?
An other amusing thread.
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MKSA
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General
Don't use a digital caliper but a regular one. Figures will look a lot better.
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MKSA
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CoreXY Machines
It's a two years old post !
Note the guy was right and is still right today !
Why acrylic ? Simply because the "designers" of these crap machines learned mechanic while visiting Shenzhen Ikea factory. The choice was MDF or acrylic. Acrylic is more flashy, so.
People buying these are impressed by the claimed performances, nice pictures, , cheap cost and are familiar with Ikea furniture one can ass
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MKSA
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Mechanics
Quoteaceranic
Preloading didn't really work.
I have installed 2 bearings on each corner instead of one and print improved a lot. Almost perfect. Really happy now.
Thanks to all on ideas and help.
Bearings on what ?
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MKSA
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CoreXY Machines
Quotelars.arvidson
Quoteprot0typ1cal
Love the 3 screw set up, perfect for auto bed leveling.
Yep, when you done a bit of work on the printer/bed its really easy to get it level again with the duets auto bed levelling feature.
QuoteMKSA
What kind of bushings are you using on the vertical rods ?
Printed with Igus I180. These were the first I printed. They are printed in spiral mode. I changed th
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MKSA
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CoreXY Machines
1605 are 16mm diam ! The bent must be a factory "feature" ! Hey these guys dare to sell ball bearings who inner and outer race are not tempered ! Yes, just SOFT steel !
What kind of bushings are you using on the vertical rods ?
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MKSA
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CoreXY Machines
QuoteDjDemonD
Not for tightening your hotend!
Yes ! I hold the hot heating block (connected to a bench PSU) with my left hand while tightening the nozzle with a wrench (and my right hand as one may deduct). I can't stand the smell of burning flesh especially if it is mine !
You get a better seal that way.
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MKSA
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QuoteDjDemonD
If we're talking safety gear then kevlar gloves come highly recommended. Brand new craft knife cannot cut them. Use when getting parts off the bed or trimming them.
As a matter of fact it is what I use when I tighten the hot end when hot to make sure it doesn't leak.
Kevlar can be cut by a knife, woven stainless steel braided wire is better.
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MKSA
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Don't forget a good sledge hammer for when you realize the cheap kit you bought just deserves a good wack ! (A 12ga is even more fun)
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MKSA
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General
MGEN and extrusions would be better used to build a better kinematic, CoreXY , various X bot.
Put a dial at the end of the X arm and apply let's say 1N. See how much it flexes,to be done in Y and Z.
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MKSA
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Quotethe_digital_dentist
[email protected]
My project is to build a vertical windmill, with wings 3 meters high, each build in 3 modules. So my new printer must ether have a 1 meter hotbed or a building height of 1,1 meter.
Is 3D printing really the best way to make those wings?
This will be something that's outdoors and exposed to sun, weather, and a lot of mechanical force. By the time
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MKSA
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Mechanics
If you have to buy all these tools, you may be better off buying a brand name working 3D printers ! Will be cheaper.
And less hassle because if you don't have the tools already, pretty sure you can't use them anyway and will learn the painful way
The "tools" I received with my Geetech kit, I thrown them away in disgust and many Geetech parts thereafter.
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MKSA
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Quoteo_lampe
I would have gone for remote driven extruders too, but the stiffness of the cable was always a big questionmark. I thought of different solutions, like closed loop spectra line, but didn't find any.
Direct drive (geared ) extruders could be so much smaller with a smaller filament diameter. That's what I'm working on for my coffeemug Delta.
We've seen how much 3DP improved when we st
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MKSA
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briangilbert
We know about zesty and similar.
I did look at using flexible, worm gears, as many others. Then I realized it is not all that rosy. Indeed, the mass to move is not just the extruder, you have the cable and in addition it is not that flexible.
As said many times, servo brushless DC is the way to go.
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MKSA
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Quotepowdermetal
Cool! You found your solution!
What's the rated torque of your motor and what current are you running it and what type of hobgear do you use?
Holding torque 0.13 mN @1A. 0.5 A is enough to extrude PETG at 120mm/s print speed, 0.4mm nozzle (the motor is at 60°). The hobgear is of my own, bites like a shark, casehardened steel, self cleaning in conjunction with the idler (filam
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MKSA
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Quotepowdermetal
QuoteMKSA
It is a nice exercise but again, what are the advantages compared to two simple gears and do they offset the extra complexity, weight, cost, size,friction, backlash .... ?
Well, ratios above 1:6 are getting hard to achieve with two simple gears - for the small gear a practical limit is approx.12 teeth as a minimum, so the second gear will become quite large. The sam
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MKSA
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General