Im presuming that some sort of parallel breakout box? Reprap is a bit more complicated than that... we use micro contollers as the timing are critical (or you get blobs), these talk to stepper drivers with standard step and direction pins The controllers also take care of setting and maintaining the temperature of the hotend and heated bed. The controller also does all our gcode interpretatioby Dust - Reprappers
d9 is PWM capable unfortunately not all fans are able to be PWM.... But some just require full on to start then you can reduce it after try a m106 s255 then a m106 s128. see if it will do thatby Dust - Reprappers
My scam-o-meter is still maxed out! Send me one, and ill do a review on it!by Dust - General
Actually most people want a hot end without PTFE, so they can print hotter materials. Once again this to me just looks like marketing bs. We have done such and such, now we need to create a market for it as no one actually needs or wants our product. re "2.54mm PIFE" no one make filament of that size, so I also suspect your trying to lock in those pore unfortunate fools that do buy your prodby Dust - General
Edit settings|User Interface fine and course grid spacing, is that what your after? or just full screen the app, which makes the grid largerby Dust - General
Thats sounds like you where checking voltage... requested ohms for a continuity test.. also while its off.by Dust - General
To many trolls in the pipe, gumming up the works --NO PERSONAL ATTACKS PLEASE--by Dust - General
cant read your photo... resistance should be about 1.1 ohm. But in general don't get cheap arse Chinese ramps... the standard mosfet barely copes, the Chinese knockoff doesnt. or if you do, first thing, replace Q3 with a real MOSFET "mosfet is Best mosfets for driving your heated bed: IRLB3813, IRLB8743, FDP8870, AOT240L, CSD18502KCS. These mosfets will run merely warm with NO heatsink andby Dust - Reprappers
I was meaning on the ramps... the mega was just to point out what pin it was. but your mega pic is most enlightening! all that black around the vin pin isnt right... I suspect you have a dead mega, in particular the Vin pin, looks melted out! I would replace that connector and carefully scrape off the gunk and try again.by Dust - General
this is science fiction, for now not without a 50K industrial printer anyhow.by Dust - General
Mostly likely your using the wrong thermistor table in your firmware In marlin it should be a type 5. If it is type 5 in marlin, then check that there is 5v on R9 and R10 (also goes threw to 5v pin is ISP header, so easy to check) Also check the resistance of the thermistor (while unplugged from the board) , it should be near 100 kOhms at 25c (room temp, more or less)by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
While board is off and unplugged from the maga and power With a multi meter on ohms, check there is a connection to the am-vin pin from the diode silver end (should be directly down from where the diode goes threw the board. on the lower mega connector. On the mega the am-vin pin is the last pin on the first lower block of pins (just labeded vin) There are some boards that have thisby Dust - General
cartage heaters can melt alu... 250C is nothing!by Dust - Reprappers
D1 In the correct way? Silver band should be at be at closest to power plugby Dust - General
You have a 12/24V MK2B board If you look on the board you will find a little table for 12v operation you need pin 1 +12v pin 2 gnd pin 3 gnd you have nothing on pin 3 from your picture.. you need that for 12v operation or the resistance is to high....by Dust - General
yes will cause grooves in the SS worse ive seen is hollow aluminium rods... (not accurate, and you cant run lm8uu on them) Ive slso seen someone trying carbon fibre rods... not sure how long that will last, also not very accurate.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I just get paranoid when it starts playing the theme from jaws!by Dust - General
This is interesting... its taken slicing from the 2d layer by layer to the 3d so that a curved surface can be printed as one layer over variable Z heights Not sure how useful it is, but it is certainly interesting.by Dust - General
yes thats the correct place... as for wiring it... if you want... make sure the wire doesn’t touch the 12v parts... instant dead mega and everything on the 5v side... Basically is it worth the risk? Most dead pc's will have those jumpers... you can just harvest them... a working pc is probably using them.by Dust - General
nevermind.... re read your post... not applicable.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
abs bed are normally 110C Do some manual testing in Pronterface. Make sure you can get to that temp. If you can't check your power supply, You really need 12v on your heatbed (not something under) also check your cables to the heated bed arent getting warm, ie cables are to thin. And that they are screwed in tight on the power connector. Presuming you have a ramps board, under each Pololu mby Dust - General
M190: Is wait for bed temperature to reach target temp in this case 75c (weird temp, to high for PLA, to low for ABS) ie the controller will wait (for ever if its not heating) to reach the set temperature, only after that will it accept further commands. The issue most people have with their heated bed is no insulation under it. So your just tiring to heat up the room. Takes forever to reachby Dust - General
you tend to get radio when adjusting the pololu current pots with a metal screw driver (not advisable)by Dust - General
gcode is just text open it up and take a read... the machine does what its told to, line by line. work out what the first 10 or so line do. use as a reference. I suspect there is a set temp and wait in their probably on your heated bed that you cant reach.by Dust - General
looks to random to me... looks a lot like thermal cycling of the bed, causing random looking layer heights. Give activating bed PID a try..by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
how does this electronic height indicator work? if it can be made to output a 5v or close a relay on contact.. if so just use it instead of a mechanical z endstop switch Then put something like the following into your gcode start file g28 (home all axis) g92 z50.81 (z is now at 50.81) remove block. g1 z0 (move to z0) has to be above z50.8 to work though..by Dust - General
"Don't have a cow man" - Bart Simpson (had to be said)by Dust - Controllers
Second one was cdru not I...by Dust - Controllers
If this is like other TMC chips, sure it uses step and direction pins, but you have to set it up first via spi, something thats not n the current reprap firmwares.. So It will never be a drop in replacement for a pololu as you need to connect the spi bus. But as mentioned the DICE standard does have SPI on its connectors...by Dust - Controllers
Checked the date... not april 1st... but this is definitely a joke. With your fake steak in place you get a z height of 60mm? out of a normal 200. Thats practically 2d!!by Dust - Controllers