Great job Sanjay! I would like to order couple 1.75mm, but web site says they sold out. Any info when it will be available again? I can provide my own fan and print that duct if you short on them.by rGlory - General
Brian, Unfortunately your replacement where you used less tape has exactly the same problem - it worked for a day and now I have exactly the same problem. Just read another topic below: "Iv been running a few machines pretty hard with the typical J heads running ABS Having problems with reliability. They either come apart and leak or the threads strip is suspect this is because running ABS aby rGlory - General
Hi, I used to use MakerGear hotend, but it recently get badly clogged so I decided to give J-head a shot. I like it's simple design better, and first prints were great, but when I tried to print bigger peaces I got hot end simply pop out of holder. I got them from hotends.com preassembled and contacted the maker, he said that most probably that I overheated the hot end and get holder melted. Thatby rGlory - General
>Placing the rods under the the frame should provide additional Z - about 55mm compared to placing them on top I understand that. But if you would not let build stage and bed move over the extrusion then maximum work area for Y will be 250mm for 500mm extrusion (btw I missed moment when extrusions became 500mm instead of 400mm) or 200mm for 400mm extrusions maximum. But that in case if build sby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Also I think putting Y motor and bearing outside of frame would not increase work size for Y, only increase size of printer itself.by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
akhlut Good job! How difficult it would be to change X holders to use 8mm rods instead of 10mm? I do not quite understand why you always put Y rods under the frame. IMHO it does not save the room, it only makes distance between bed and Y rods longer. Am I missing something?by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
frozinak I can print you parts, I am in PA, contact me if you are interested.by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
It is fun to build the Prism! I could not help myself but to assemble another one So as I do not need two I am selling the second one on ebay. Also it would be interesting to see if people would want it. Here is the itemby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Wow nice! I already want to switch to makerslideby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
> I had no clue i was going to need the LM8UU are those part of the X axis? I am not there yet, im just trying to find the parts for the frame at this point. Normally you would need 4 LM8UU for Y bed, 4 or 2 for X ends (depends on model) and 3 or 4 for X carriage. That's why I said 9 to 12 pcs. For X ends on Prism I used Adrian's prusa ends from here but looks like standard Prusa ends also hby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
thecrazy, Welcome to the club! I bought mine rods at vxb.com, the price probably not the cheapest but quality is good and supplier is reliable. So I bought 2 pcs of 330mm for Z (that fits perfect on prism, no need to cut) and 4 pcs of 406mm for X and Y. 406mm could be little bit too long for Y, but if you would use mine Y holders that not a problem, as it does not have to fit inside frame. Same sby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
OK, Looks like it is ready. Here is how it looks like. From Prism I was wrong, it saves not 2 m4 bolts and nuts but 4! Anyway it works much smoother this way and it looks much better without that extra belt under bed, for cost of one extra stepper. It has less resolution than before, but I have more than enough with this thread already - 2269 steps/mm so one step 0.0004mm if did not miss sometby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Sorry guys, I've decided to go with Prusa... Z-motor mounting. Here it is: From Prism I had to move Z-rod couple mm towards center, so I had to redesign Z-top little bit: From PrismFrom Prism But there are couple benefits to this design: - I need 2 m4 bolts and nuts less - Z-rod does not need adjustment on X coordinate anymore, it should self adjust properly. Downside: X became couple mm shortby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Buback Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > looks great! Thanks. I haven' done everything yet (bed is not attached yet, I am missing connectors on extruder, so I just temporarily soldered them) but looks very promising. I will probably try to sell my old prusa later, I am not sure if there is any demand for used one. > hmm cable holders fit fine on mine (misumiby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Finally my prism started to print! From Prism With 0.25 nozzle and T2.5 belt resolution is amazing. But it may take too long to print... I tried that cable holders and they are loose, at least when printed on mine. I had to scale them down to 0.95, they attached better but break too easy, I probably would need stronger ones. I would say I am not very impressed with Z moving by belt and one motor.by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
> they list one price on the misumi site, but if you request a quote, they give a lower price. weird. Maybe the price is for one piece, when you order 9 they give a discount?by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
There is nice design for drop in T-Nut here It is for 3mm but should be easy to modify it for 4mm.by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
> I'm not seeing that price on Misumi. I see $4 for 1 400mm extrusion without precision cut, and $11 for 1 400mm extrusion with precision cut. Did you mean $11 for 1? That'll make the frame itself $99, and I don't think that's what you meant. I bought HFS5-2020-40 for $2.28 each on Misumi USA couple weeks ago. (Total is $20.52 for 9pcs) > A cheaper alternative maybe to use SLS printed puby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
I got email from ponoko yesterday that laser cut for mine acrylic beds are done, so as soon as I get them I will check if I did not make any mistake, then I will publish on thingiverse it's design (with models for LM8UU holders as well of course)by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
rcboosted Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm not understanding how your Y rod holder works > differently than Buback's. Is looks like it fits > in between the extruded aluminum frame too doesn't > it? It's the same 400mm frame. No, as DeuxVis already said mine rod holders on top, look into the second picture where I published rod's image. > alby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
> I need to make the build platform myself, but I can use the rods from a Prusa, just cut them shorter. If you will use Y rod holders, that I posted, you would not have to cut Y rods.by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Btw I made hobber tool for my dremel, this is not directly related to Prism, but I made it to build one, so anyway:by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
> 5. 5 NEMA17 stepper motors You only need 4 btw > 6. HBP, what about the bed itself that rides on the Y Axis? I may have spare acrylic bed that should work with rods I posted here before. I am waiting ponoko for building it, they promised it will be made this Friday. But I will need to check that my design is correct first. If it is, I can share it with you. > 7. All electronics (whatby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Also check that you do not have too much current on your drives.by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
> how do I know which port the reprap is attached to? Which OS your PC is running? PS Mine is attached to /dev/ttyACM0 but that's for Linux (in particular Ubuntu 11.04)by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
Ok, I unstalled bed on new rod holders: From Prism As you can see it fits with Y motor very well: From Prism Bed fills very rigid, I think more rigid could be only to increase smooth rod diameter.by rGlory - General Mendel Topics
> the y motor bracket and idler are asymmetrical, so it can be flipped over to give you an extra 5mm (though this might cause some interference with the z belt). Yes I know, but I need at least 25mm, that would be still 20mm more. > please post some designs on thingiverse! i'll do one up, too. Sure: > also, you'll probably want to turn your y motor so the wires don't stick up in theby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
I think y-rods installed low, which will require additional sheet or to much plastic btw linear bearings and first one. I measured at least 25mm to make it go over Y motor. I modified Y-Z rod holders like this: From Prism And it looks promising: From Prism Aluminium sheet is not attached to y rods, just lays on top of linear bearings, proper installation will make some more room, so I think thby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
DeuxVis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Nice idea for the X end, but I would center the motor and use 2 bearings on each side. Back to original Mendel? I think issue with it in this case - bearings will have to be far enough behind the motor, so pulley will be properly covered by belt. That will increase size of X-end and amount of plastic. > When a belt puby rGlory - General Mendel Topics
So here is my idea for Prism X ends: Of course this is way too far from end design, just to show idea. So bearing bed is only for one bearing and belt is going around. That will require 2 bearings more than prusa X-ends, but what I do not like with prusa ends there is force only on one side of X-ends when belt is tensioned. With original mendel belt just pushes both ends together evenly. Alsoby rGlory - General Mendel Topics