Show all posts by user
Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: Collapsed vertical corners at 0.1mm layer - 9 years ago
Been having the same issue. Going to look at this and see if I can fix it!by banthafodder7400 - Printing
Re: Calibration Issues - 10 years ago
Ok I will try playing with temperature settings. I am printing with ABS and I seem to have the temperature set really high after I changed my thermistor.by banthafodder7400 - Printing
Re: Calibration Issues - 10 years ago
Additional information, the X,Y and Z dimensions are all within 0.1mm of what they should be. so those calibration values are good.by banthafodder7400 - Printing
Calibration Issues - 10 years ago
So I have had some major printer changes this year. A new extruder after my other one melted down, and new extruder drive gears since I had a ton of backlash in my old extruder drive gears. I was working on some calibration tonight after getting the gears in place. I was printing but as you can see from my pictures there were some issues. 1. So in the front view you can see that it completelyby banthafodder7400 - Printing
Re: hotend compatibility issue - 10 years ago
Solved my issue... I will still leave my post up incase someone runs into this them selves in the future. So the issue was that the brass fitting was in the way. In the before drill picture you can see where the old hot end sat into the mount. Nothing was in the way so I decided to open the hole up. As you see in the after drill picture I just drilled the mount out so the brass fitting would nestby banthafodder7400 - General
hotend compatibility issue **solved** - 10 years ago
So i melted my hot end the other day by overheating. I ordered a new hot end not thinking. The problem is, it is slightly different and didnt realize it. I didnt know until I took the old one off. The new one has a brass fitting that makes it too tall to fit into the extruder mount. Look in the picture. The old one has a hollow set screw to hold the liner in. Any suggestions on how I can fix thiby banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Hot End Stopped! - 10 years ago
After I turned it on and connected to it I set the hot end temp. Then checking voltage directly on the board I get 5V across the thermistor connectors and 0V across the hot end connectors. Any more ideas?by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Hot End Stopped! - 10 years ago
Ok so I think based on tjb1's comment I might have a bigger issue. I plugged the printer in Opened pronterface Set heat temp to supply power to the resistor Using my multimeter touch each side of the resistor I get 0 volts..... Does this mean it is something in my controller? Arg I have some stuff I want to print for Christmas so I need to get it up and running. The new resistors will be here neby banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Hot End Stopped! - 10 years ago
Good tips everyone, I will check tonight when I get home. I have a pack of new resistors on the way.by banthafodder7400 - General
Hot End Stopped! - 10 years ago
Hello everyone, So today I was trying to print a fairly simple print. 1/4 of the way through I looked over and no filament was coming out. I quickly looked at my pronterface and it was saying "Cold Extrusion Prevented" So I sent the command to check the hotend temp. It was dropping rapidly. Now I cant get it to get any heat. Everything else works great, all the stepper motors, the heat bed, fansby banthafodder7400 - General
Re: First layer / callibration issue (Prusa i3 - Slic3r) - 11 years ago
I have the exact same issues on my prints, first layer seems way too much material, I have adjusted the print height, flow rate, and tons of other stuff. I have yet to figure it out.by banthafodder7400 - Printing
Re: Cure to ultrastuck ABS juiced parts - 11 years ago
I see your warning, and that's what I am saying. I caused damage so I wanted a damage free method for people to try.by banthafodder7400 - General
Cure to ultrastuck ABS juiced parts - 11 years ago
So I finally got around to trying ABS juice. The problem was, my print got ultrastuck! I tried cooling, freezer, and finally a hammer and screwdriver. This did slight damage to the part and my ceramic print bed. I got to thinking (maybe someone else already has who knows!) about pull tabs like removing batteries. Many of us print on Kapton already and know that it is pretty thin, so by adding tby banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Lead Screws and Smooth Rods- best bang for buck? - 11 years ago
I just bought M8 rods on McMasterCarr and was super pleased with the cost when I build my Prusa.by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Mod for incredibly easy leveling calibrations, never fail to print first layer (using paper), and other speed improvements, MG2 - 11 years ago
Finished my printbed leveling project finally! It was similar to yours for sure. Just figured I would post if you wanted to check it out. It's on my site. Thanks for the idea to get me started!by banthafodder7400 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Mod for incredibly easy leveling calibrations, never fail to print first layer (using paper), and other speed improvements, MG2 - 11 years ago
Hey I really like your leveling technique, I was playing around with my printer and found that my acrylic is so incredibly warped that I cant get it to re-level. I am going out today to try to modify the leveling process and you have changed my thinking a little. I might not do it exactly the same but we will seeby banthafodder7400 - General Mendel Topics
Re: HELP! X and Y not syncing! - 12 years ago
I know the frustration! When I got my machine up and running it took a while to work out little bugs (not the exact same issues as you). It took a little while to get everything calibrated properly too. I hope youre getting stuff working!by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: HELP! X and Y not syncing! - 12 years ago
do you know how to get to the configuration.h tab? If so once there look for something like this within the code // default settings #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {31,31,1259,353} // X, Y, Z, E #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 45} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E you will have to calibrate the Steps per Unit for each axis baseby banthafodder7400 - General
Re: HELP! X and Y not syncing! - 12 years ago
Have you double checked your stepping in the firmware? If you tell X to go 100mm in pronterface and then measure, did it go 100? and same with the Y?by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Heated bed: Wall Tile instead glass - 12 years ago
I work for a highend ceramic manufacturer. If you look in my blog under the improvements area you will see the print bed I use a dense alumina ceramic plate ground flat and parallel to within .0002" it works beautifully so far. The only problem is it costs over $1000. Dont worry I didnt pay for it it was scrapped due to a chip.by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: setting home location points - 12 years ago
Very true, it can block the filament a little, but I always print on the open side also because of the cooling system I have on my extrusion motor I cant get over far enough that way to ever block the filament. I wanted to mount vertically but couldnt run my wires in a way that made me happy.by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: setting home location points - 12 years ago
Yes that was the pain when I moved mine too, rerunning the locations for all the wires With mine I put it right up on to, the plexiglass was too long to fit parallel to the top bars so I drilled some new holes and zip tied it perpendicular to the top cross bars. This picture shows where I happened to put it to run my wires too. I also printed an enclosure and am still working on the coolingby banthafodder7400 - General
Re: setting home location points - 12 years ago
agreed, also I think the printer looks great. One suggestion I have, which you by no means have to do, is to move the circuit board. Thats where I originally had mine and it limited my z-height by half (about 40mm) after I moved it I can get 80mm. This is only if you are interested in taller prints at somepoint. Have fun with it!by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Cure for The Common Curling: "The Brim" 
- 12 years ago
I think the brim with a few other conditions is great. Before most prints I clean my kapton tape, then I put a coating of my version of ABS juice (slightly milder than pure acetone but seems to work) and I use the brim. All of these factors help ensure that I dont waste hours printing a part.by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: ABS glue? - 12 years ago
On a side note, nice train site! HO is a little big for me so I do N and Z, I originally got my printer to print things for my model railroad, just been printing a bunch of other stuff instead for now Back on topic, yes dont use super glue if you want it too look a little better. I havent liked how the superglue looked on the plastic.by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: X , Y AXIS NOT CENTERED DRY RUN PRINT - 12 years ago
What are you using to slice with? I had the issue when I first sliced an ".stl" file into gcode of it not printing where I wanted. In slic3r for example you can set the X Y coordinates of where you want the print to be. Do you have your print coordinates set correctly? Also if by this QuoteThe y and x axis motors continue to turn even at the edges of the rod you mean that the stage reaches it liby banthafodder7400 - General
Can someone explain heater cartridges to me? - 12 years ago
So I hope I'm not beating a dead horse here, but I cant seem to find a clear answer in my searches. What is a heater cartridge and how does it work? I know how the typical resistor hotend works but am just blurry on these. What are the pros and cons of cartridge vs a style like a J-hotend? Size differences? If it is just easier to point me to a different topic that you know of, please do. Thanksby banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Buying/Building My First RepRap - 12 years ago
It should smear the plastic to about the thickness of your layer thickness. I now print at .28mm layer thickness, and when I peel off the first layer its about .28~.30 as a cylinder it doesnt squish at all and you get less surface area on the bed.by banthafodder7400 - Reprappers
Re: Fill The Current Perimeter? - 12 years ago
I will try both these suggestions! The skeinforge one sounds very efficient, I just hate the interface of skeinforge. Maybe I will warm up to it someday. BTW the items I needed it for are in my most recent update (Farming meets Engineering). The jumping back and forth between islands was leaving little strings everywhere, evening with good retraction set.by banthafodder7400 - General
Re: Cure for The Common Curling: "The Brim" - 12 years ago
@ Idolcracher Finally posted the update to my blog after getting all my parts in place and the final designs done. If you look at the bottom of post titles "Farming meets Engineering" you will see one of my parts during the print with a "brim" on it.by banthafodder7400 - General