Over the years I've seen many printers with lots of issues fixed here. The people on this forum are very talented and are always willing to help. Explain your problems the best you can and I'm sure we can get you up and printing.by REPRAP SQUAD - Reprappers
Dibond is a great material that is often under utilized. I've used cardboard insulators in the passed but, I've found that cork works best. You can typically find it anywhere. My first test run using cork, it was taken off of a cork board that I found at a thrift store for a buck.by REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
I did a similar setup using an auto relay on my printrboard with a dedicated psu. What control board are you using? Ramps 1.4? If I remember right as it's been quite a while ago. I documented it on my website. I would have to search to make sure. I know if you do a google search you will find diagrams and other documentation on it. When I did mine documentation on the fotek ssr was easier to findby REPRAP SQUAD - Reprappers
Make sure you have thicker gauge wiring than you think you need. Also having multi strand wiring is important especially if the wiring has to move periodically. Another way to help protect your board is to move the power hungry heated bed onto a relay. Either a solid state or auto relay with diode will work great. This is a fairly common issue that has been seen. Always take time periodically toby REPRAP SQUAD - Safety & Best Practices
As posted above I have built several RepRaps from $0 to under a $100. One in particular, was called the JunkBot. It's frame was built by reusing outdoor solar light stands. You can find info and build logs for the JunkBot via my site, here or at RepRap.org My first printer that was a plastic Printrbot cost about $10 due to having a large collection of reusable parts. One of the builds from earlyby REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
I started years ago with a self sourced repstrap. I have also built quite a few different 3-D printers since. One of which I build out of outdoor solar light stands. It was called the JunkBot. There is a post on here about the JunkBot as well as at my website. If you would like to bounce questions off of me or need any help you can email me or get ahold of me on my site (linked within my signaturby REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
As long as the aluminum tubing is fairly strong, it might be possible. I have built a 3D printer frame from outdoor solar light stands. It did require me to use a combo of metal brackets and printed brackets in the corners to strengthen the frame. That build was called the JunkBot and can be found here on the forums or by going to my site that is linked within my signature. Once I reinforced theby REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
Ya I decided to put my carver m500t and tx11a online for sale. They sound great but I need new reprap parts.by REPRAP SQUAD - Experimental and Hobby
Also, make sure you get a shipping quote from robotdigg as it can cost a lot more than the parts. Depending on your location as for me they are overseas and charge a ton for shipping.by REPRAP SQUAD - General
Also, do you know that your filament has been kept dry. As in stored with kitty litter or other. Filament is known to absorb water even if you cant tell which could be adding to the issues.by REPRAP SQUAD - General
If you end up self sourcing a printrbot, the plus v2 files are available for all the parts with the exception of a few upgrades like the dual extruder. I am in the midst of transferring over all the dual extruder and carriage from mine into cad files. The dual extruder setup will change over some of the parts to the v2.1. So you would have a hybrid of sorts much like mine.by REPRAP SQUAD - General
Dual extruders do add a decent amount to the cost and definitely raise the learning curve. My site linked within my signature has a bunch of posts about dual extruders. I was luckey enough to be 1 of 10 people in the world working with printrbot on their production dual extruder setups. I started quite a while ago with their release of the dual extruder beta and now I have their production versioby REPRAP SQUAD - Reprappers
Both printers have a good reputation and a large following. I am familiar with maker tool works but, not the other company. It really depends on what you want a printer for. Typically the more you spend the less finicky they are but that is not always true. Really you can mod almost any printer to make it great at doing whatever you want it to. I've had a printrbot plus for a while and it startedby REPRAP SQUAD - General
I dont know a ton but I just got done doing some upgrades to my carver M500t amp which was built by the famous bob carver. What parts do you need help with.by REPRAP SQUAD - Experimental and Hobby
As far as ive ever known makergeeks has guaranteed filament as well as free shipping. If you're not happy I would email as they have been very helpful to me.by REPRAP SQUAD - General
In my experience, hotends are one thing that you don't want to skimp on. Ive had a couple cheap ones throughout the years and its not worth the headache. I recommend the ubis hotend, E3D and the magma. The best part about e3d is that its all metal and can be used with almost any type of filament on the market. I hope your Chinese one works for ya.by REPRAP SQUAD - General
Unfortunately with filament you typically get what you pay for. I've found that the best for the price is makergeeks.com. They also offer free shipping and a huge selection of filament. They as well as printrbot have always had great products as well as even better customer service.by REPRAP SQUAD - General
You could also use external pid controllers which can be found for a decent price. That would be the easiest way to do it that I coukd think of. Its true that the traces on the ramps board wont handle that much amperage. Trying to do it with relays is possible and I would recommend using ssr instead of a mechanical relay if you go down that path but monitoring temps without an extra thermistor miby REPRAP SQUAD - General
I can second newperfections post on using 16.5amp 203w xbox power supplies. I have also built quite a few printers using that power supply with 8x8 heated beds. You will want to make sure that its an official Microsoft one as ive heard of issues with the knock offs. I have an entire post on my site showing how to mod the xbox psus to be used on a reprap. My site is linked below within my signaturby REPRAP SQUAD - General
Ive actually had that happen once before. I touched one of my motors and zap! Everything disconnected. You could always buy an anti static bracelet or earth ground your stuff. When I worked on computers back in the day we would touch the case frame before touching anything else. That way if we did have built up static then it would discharge at that point.by REPRAP SQUAD - Controllers
Thanks Cameron, I've spent a lot of time getting everything just right and I'm finally getting close to being finished with the JunkBot build. Currently we are working on a new cable management system that I originally designed for my printrbot plus v2/v2.2 hybrid. I also posted info on the plus build and mods as well. If you would like to see any updates on the build, I'm updating the posts on tby REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
I was able to get a picture that was low enough resolution to let me post here. My site has a bunch of high res pics if you like to check it out.by REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
Personally I prefer printrbot plus v2. I have a friend with an prusa i3 and hes always telling me that he wishes he would of bought a printrbot. Mine has grown as my needs have evolved. I have extended the z and y axis to about 17 inches which is well more than enough for most uses. I have modded it for very cheap and it runs like a dream. I am currently building a printer called the JunkBot. Iby REPRAP SQUAD - Reprappers
Have you connected the wires on the xbox power supply correctly in order to take the psu out of standby? I have a complete tutorial on how to properly setup an xbox 360 psu to a ramps as well as other boards. Also check to see if your xbox psu is an authentic Microsoft unit or a chinese knock off as they have been known to be problematic. Heres the direct link to the tutorial:by REPRAP SQUAD - RAMPS Electronics
The JunkBot has really started to take off and its not even completed yet. Im currently working on a cable management setup using track as well as custom made drag cable. Its turning out to be a great printer and the costs are very low. Check out the updates one the site. I am trying to get some low resolution pics that I can put up here because of the file size limit.by REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
The amperage doesn't matter if you have more than needed because it will only use what it needs so having extra amperage is a good thing. Having the extra makes your power supply not work as hard as one with barely enough amps, which will help your PSU last longer. I use an Xbox 360 power supply because they are affordable and long aß well as skinny. I fit one under a current build I'm workingby REPRAP SQUAD - General
I've updated the post on my blog with new pics and build log info.by REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
The steppers only need to match rotational degrees. Ex: 1.8 degrees. But if you have two steppers for your z axis they should be exact matches. Otherwise you will be fighting them the whole way. I bought my ramps board through geeetech on eBay and it came from that area. The majority of parts came from China as I can get them way cheaper even with long delivery.by REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
I just added the rough BOM for the JunkBot. It will at least give you the basics for what's involved.by REPRAP SQUAD - Developers
We are actually developing a 5axis 3D printer that solves a lot of the issues that you're referring to. The most difficult part of the build was figuring out how to feed the filament with all the ranges of movement. Nicolas Seward has some very interesting input and if anyone can figure out a way of thinking outside the box, it would be him.by REPRAP SQUAD - Developers