I'm having the same issue. When I run the test code, all hardware moves, including the extruder. Hot end and heated bed reach the target temperatures just fine. If I tell Pronterface to move the extruder in either direction, it thinks it's working, but the motor doesn't move.by Theorist - RAMPS Electronics
Fixed! Nophead was right, it was a firmware issue. The test code apparently doesn't print to the serial monitor, but I loaded some of my own code that does, and that worked. So I switched to a different version of Marlin, and Pronterface is finally connecting. Thanks!by Theorist - Printing
Hi Nophead, thanks for the suggestion. I changed the firmware to 115200, then opened the serial monitor in the Arduino IDE and changed the baud rate there too. I hit the reset button on RAMPS, LED 1 flashed twice, but I still got no feedback in the serial monitor. Oddly, I can still upload to the Arduino. Does this mean that the hardware is bad? Thanks!by Theorist - Printing
I've tried this with two different computers now. Even unplugged everything except the USB and power to RAMPS. Still the same result, no connection, error, or timeout. It just says "Connecting..." indefinitely. The only time I can get a different response is when I unplug the USB cable, then it errors out finally. I'm about to buy another RAMPS board unless someone can give another compellingby Theorist - Printing
Pronterface is no longer connecting to my printer. I'm using RAMPS 1.4 and Windows 7 64 bit. Arduino board is running on COM 3, Pronterface is also set for COM 3. Firmware is set for 250000, as is Pronterface. The Arduino IDE can communicate with the Arduino board and update it's code just fine. When I upload test code, all the motors move, so RAMPS is working at least to that extent. I've poby Theorist - Printing
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey, don't mean to bust you on anything, but it's > really a bit useless what you're doing here. I > think your approach will even work against you. +1by Theorist - For Sale
Here's a better price list: http://www.3ders.org/pricecompare/by Theorist - For Sale
I'm finishing up my Prusa i3 build with RAMPS 1.4 and a 225mm x 225mm silicone heated bed from QU-BD. I need to decide on how to power it. Will I need a relay to power the bed since it's 24v? How powerful would a single PSU need to be as opposed to two separate ones?by Theorist - Reprappers
Can anyone give feedback on this hot end?by Theorist - For Sale
Are there any other hot ends commercially available that will print polycarbonate? The Budaschnozzle 1.3 had an upgrade kit, but it's no longer available since they've switched to the 2.0. The 2.0 is only rated at <240C, so it can't do PC.by Theorist - General
If you have a router, you could also shave down the wood where the Y axis attaches to it.by Theorist - Reprappers
SheldonE Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just a heads up, the BOM for the i3 seems to be > out of date. It mentions 2xM10 threaded rods for > the Y-axis, but the Y corners can only take an M8 > rod. I updated the Wiki accordingly. > > Does anyone know if the M5 threaded rods for the > Z-axis are still used? The EiNSTeiN Variant takes 10mmby Theorist - Reprappers
thainfamousnate Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > im 95% through my build of an aluminum prusa i3. i > modified it for m10 threaded rod on the y axis, m8 > smooth rod and lm8uus. ive designed the x carriage > bracket for a budaschnozzle/ wades extruder. i am > using a RAMBo Board, repetier host and repetier > firmware. i just calibrated yesterday,by Theorist - Reprappers
Thanks, these are helpful responses. Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The cheapest solution are plain steel rods. Medium > quality are "silver steel": > > rstahl-din-175-geschliffen-und-poliert . Best > choice without getting custom made ones are ones > made of hardened steel: > > sions-wellenstahl-werkstoff-cf53-gehaertet-undby Theorist - General
What's the functional difference? Does it affect the quality of the printed parts, or just the speed? How can one acquire chromed polished rods on their own (outside of kits)? My local hardware store just has standard non-polished metal rods.by Theorist - General
I see plastic Prusa parts on your site, but it doesn't say which version of the Prusa they're for. Iteration? Frame type?by Theorist - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
I'm building a box frame i3. How difficult would it be to have a resolution finer than 0.005" layer height? Would it be easy to get around 0.0025" or smaller? Would I need a smaller tip and finer stepper motors or any other hardware? Please forgive my position in the learning curve.by Theorist - General Mendel Topics
jimmy0x52 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How many interested parties do I have? Once I get > a group, I'll setup a paypal and we can get it > cut! I need 16 to make it worthwhile, otherwise > it's too expensive. I'm in the US and I'm interested. I'll PM you.by Theorist - General Mendel Topics
Santa Rosa. I don't have a printer yet, but might build one soon. It would be nice to find someone close who could print me some parts.by Theorist - California, San Francisco Bay Area RUG
I'm also in the Santa Rosa area and am interested in meeting others here.by Theorist - California, San Francisco Bay Area RUG