I am in Sugar Land area. I started 2 years ago with a Prusa Mendel I2, and I'm working on my customized extra large Mendel90. I got few more guys into building printers now. Let me know what you need.by DanMoto - Texas, Houston RepRap User Group
I have some ABS filaments from ebay that not only doesn't completely dissolve in acetone well. It also jammed my hotend. And it is brittle! It seems like they have additives and not pure ABS, even with the NATURAL ABS that I bought. So be careful where you buy your ABS from.by DanMoto - Reprappers
Heres a 8.4 x12.6 "by DanMoto - General
Opps, I think M5 is correct and not M6. The size is not that important as long as it is smaller than your smooth rod.by DanMoto - General
This hotend is an example of how popularity will mask the true quality of a product. Sure it looks nice and all, but this hotend seems to fell short from it's hype with all the problems I've read.by DanMoto - General
It was changed to M6 to reduce Z wobbles. Why do you want to go back to M8?by DanMoto - General
Wow those prints are amazing!by DanMoto - General
I would keep both. One to print precise prints with a small nozzle. The other for speed and strength with a large nozzle.by DanMoto - General
Top homing is not as annoying as you think. My slicer's gcode waits for bed temperature first before turning on the hotend. And once bed temperature is reached, the hotend temperature is ready and stabilized once it finish homing and come back down to near zero. The homing duration is essentially pipelined with the hotend.by DanMoto - Mendel90
You saved $3.60-5.10 in 20 minutes. The question is, would you want to make $10.80-15.00 an hour making those nuts? If so, then this is legit. Nice findby DanMoto - General
If you can find the schematic, I can hack it to have that feature. Since it is a switching power supply, this modification is possible.by DanMoto - General
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am running my heatbed through relay, haven't > seen a hotend through relay yet, but I guess it > would work the same way Good luck! You can get away with using a relay on the heatbed because of the lower PWM frequency. The extruder's PWM is much faster and will destroy that relay quickly. MOSFETs with a lowby DanMoto - General
For the most part, if the copper plating is light enough, it won't affect the resistance of the heater traces by alot. The problem arise when copper plating is too thick, then it will lower the resistance of the heater traces. Another way to compensate for the extra copper is to having narrower heater traces. At the end, it really doesn't matter as long as your total resistance is in the intenby DanMoto - General
Thanks. I am trying to find the schematic and pinout for the ramps. Do you happen to have a link?by DanMoto - Controllers
Hi, what format is that schematic in? I tried KiCad, it doesn't open. I am trying to make a full size SD reader for ramps.by DanMoto - Controllers
Anyone know a place that sells a SDRamps that takes a full size SD card instead of a micro sd? I have so many full size card laying around and I wish I can use it instead of my 32GB micro sd.by DanMoto - Controllers
Ok, I just read the instruction over again and it seem that the idea is to "crush" the nozzle against the heat-break. Question now is how much "crush" is enough to form a seal? 1/4 turn? 1/2 turn? Any torque specification? That way I can try to get the nozzle exactly flat against the heatblock and at the same time properly seal the heatbreak and nozzle.by DanMoto - General
I am not sure if this have been answer. Is there a reason why we want to leave a gap between the block and nozzle? Why couldn't I tighten the nozzle to the block first before installing the heater break. My heater break doesn't stop when it thread into the block without the nozzle.by DanMoto - General
HI, I am fairly new to the reprap world. I finished building my I2 and have very good prints. Now I am ready to build more and I am looking for places to cut MDF, Dibond, or PVC for my Mendel90 build. Can anyone recommend places in Houston?by DanMoto - Texas, Houston RepRap User Group
Xabbax : I like the PTC heater also. aduy : I suppose you can buy more than one and put it together. Since it is just a heating element, running it with 120V just reduces the output. I see no problem with that.by DanMoto - General
I can't seem to find if anyone tried these heating element for a heated bed. Seems like it would work similar to silicone pads. Have anyone tried this?by DanMoto - General
Cool. I had near perfect prints on the first try with my very first printer (Prusa i2) as well. If you actually take the time and made sure everything lines up and squared off and belts are tighten, it just works. I used slic3r default settings and there it was. And it only got better as I tweaked it.by DanMoto - General Mendel Topics