I so have replaced one of my old board with the mks v1.3 and have been working on setting up marlin 2.x I got everything to the point that I can print but when printing I noticed that it would break up long linear moves into multiple segments which seems to be intended for use with bi-linear bed leveling. The real problem that I found is that if I don't set #define classic jerk then at the pointby hcker2000 - Firmware - Marlin
Yea no issues with the power supply or plug that I can find. Checked from ground to vmot and im getting 12v on all the drivers. Checked from ground to vdd and its switching between 4.7v and 3.6v every couple seconds. Checked both motor groups with no voltage on either pair. Checked ground to dir and it was switching between high and low states as it should. Checked ground to enable pin no voltagby hcker2000 - RAMPS Electronics
so last week i killed my mega from a stepper driver being off by one set of pins. ordered a new mega, flashy marlin. I was able to get my z and extruder motors going some what randomly. so i swapped the x and extruder driver tried to move the x and no luck. swapped it back and no more extruder movement. flashed the test code and i get nothing. swapped drivers all around, nothing. checked for pby hcker2000 - RAMPS Electronics
Gotcha. Any chance you would be willing to print some PETG on cold PEI as a test for me?by hcker2000 - General
I have not yet but I think thats my next step as I have a stick laying around the house some place. So you have tried it unheated with petg before?by hcker2000 - General
Any one tried printing PETG on unheated PEI? I'm getting annoyed dealing with blue painters tape and brims.by hcker2000 - General
I got this issue resolved. Some how line #281 of the configuration.h file was set to #define X_ENABLE_ON 1 and needed to be #define X_ENABLE_ON 0by hcker2000 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Any way to run this on a sanginololu board?by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
When I try to use the left or right x jog buttons in pronterface nothing happens. I'm running marlin on a sanguinalolu board. I have confirmed wiring is fine by hooking the motor to the y axis and using the y jog and that works fine. I also swapped the x driver to the y spot to make sure the driver is ok and it is. Any thoughts?by hcker2000 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I get the general idea but am having trouble finding any info online about diy methods or the best way to secure the skin.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
Are you talking about some thing similar to how they used to do plane body's and wings? If so thats an interesting idea. Another idea that popped to mind would be using some of the thick pink panel foam. The ridged stuff used for houses. You could easily cover that with aluminum and glue the aluminum to it. Would be light and I dont think it should flex over a two foot span.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
I'm going to try to get a piece of dibond 1/8th inch thick and build a frame of square tube aluminum.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
I see you extended the Y axis. My X axis is as wide as your Y axis is long. My Y axis looks to be about the same length as yours. If this dosnt work I figure I probably have enough materials to build two regular size i3's Here is a picture for scale.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
Sorry I should have been a bit clearer. The width between the y axis smooth rods is a bit less than three feet probsbly more like 2 or 2 1/2 feet wide. Length of the smooth rods is three feet. So build area will be about 2 foot by 1 1/2 feet. Not really related to my question but my z smooth rod is also 3 feet long. As for stabillity on the z I'm bolting it to my wall or very large 2x4 frame.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
So I'm building a rather large i3. The rough size is three square feet. Needless to say the stock frog plate (i think thats what its called) wont work. So I need some feedback on a good way to mount a build surface to this beast. I need to keep it light weight as I'm still using nema17 motors. I will be printing pla mostly and am not planing on running a heated bed at this point. I'm thinking ofby hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
I did confirm that if I hold down the reset until it says uploading it will upload fine. I disabled max endstops and inverted my min end stops but can't get the to trigger when I close the connection between signal and ground.by hcker2000 - Sanguino(lolu)
Same for me too. I burnt the boot loader from arduino using the board that marlin firmware comes with.by hcker2000 - Sanguino(lolu)
It seams like the issue with bushings could be with how long they are. The longer they are the higher the resistance is going to be. I just had a set of prints done for my 3d printer on a machine using igus bushings and o1 tool steel and from my perspective the results are great as it produces very accurate prints. With that in mind igus makes some very "short" length bushings but I suspect thatby hcker2000 - General
An addon board would be fine with me so long as its availableby hcker2000 - Controllers
Glad to see the project is moving along nicely. Any plans to add an sd card slot?by hcker2000 - Controllers
I'm in favor of Igus 8mm plastic bushings. I just gave them a try on my tool steel that just arrived and man are they smooth and very little friction.by hcker2000 - General
Before I post any links I just want every one to know I am not affilliated in any way with the following suppliers. I have just found them to be the downright cheapest place to get what most of us need. So lets start with 99% of our vitamins shall we. Check out Zoro Tools on ebay. I payed $55 (free shipping on orders over $50) for all of my threaded rods (2x M10, 6x 5/16, 2x M5) + all the nuts,by hcker2000 - Reprappers
Great info as thats exactly what I ordered!by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
I just checked the y-idler.stl in the vanilla repo and it looks to be sized for a 623 bearing. But the belt-guide.stl is wrong for the 623 bearing so I'm not actually sure what its supposed to use. The hole in the belt-guide is 8mm and what ever bearing is supposed to snap in should be 8 x 10 x 6. The good news is it looks like a 623 bearing would work just fine if you dont want to use the printby hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
thanks for the link over to vanilla repo. Its interesting to see the difference between this repo I wonder if one is better than the other?by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
Any chance you can link me over to the vanilla repo? The one I have did include some stl files in an sample_stls folder.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the info that helps a lot. I'm planing to use the default parts from the prusa i3 github repo.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
Ok so I have been looking all over trying to find out two things. 1) What bearings are used for the x and y belt idlers? 2) Is there any printed part that goes on them or does the belt just sit right on the bearing?by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics
I have a list of some parts I need for my prusa i3 build. I'm looking for a deal on them that I can pay forward to the next person who needs them once my printer is done. Let me know if you would be willing to help me out and I can get the stl files to you.by hcker2000 - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Very impressive. I'm going to be building mine from wood as well. Should end up being cheaper.by hcker2000 - General Mendel Topics