Hi Madhu, You will have no problems at all with JST connectors. Just for information the heatsink fins do not get over 50ºC with E3D cooler running, Cheers. Alex.by AlexBorro - General
@Madhu. yes, the heat break is a little bit loose in the heat sink.. just tight with your hands and it's enough.. after assembled, the heater cables will block any rotation... don't mind about it.. About the extruder, I have done a version specially for E3D.. It's way better than any other version I have used: Cheers. Alex.by AlexBorro - General
Plexus, what nozzle are you using?? Bear in mind you need a larger nozzle for TGlase, like 0.7mm. It is quite difficult to extrude and generates high pressures. Forget about 0.4mm or thinner nozzles. But I could print it with no problem at all. What issues are you facing?? Alex.by AlexBorro - General
After burning all the material inside the nozzle, I tried to pass a 0.2mm cooper wire through the hole, but no success.. it gets in about 1mm and then bends.., Really difficult to clean theses nozzles.. It would be better if E3D provide us with a wire to clean the nozzle.. it is not that easy to find a 0.25mm diameter hard wire..by AlexBorro - General
Guys, I've got my first clogged nozzle. It is the 0.25mm version.. I could not push the filament through the hotend by hand. I replaced the nozzle by the original one (0.4mm) and it worked like a charm. So I drilled the clogged nozzle with a 2mm drill to remove all the plastic.. but I guess the small 0.25mm is clogged because even doing that, I cannot push filament... Do you guys know any wayby AlexBorro - General
@Krafter, check this extruder out: There is a snap fit version for E3D. Cheers.by AlexBorro - General
I figured out the issue related to "pulsing" extrusion width... I'm using a RUMBA powered by 24V... and my motors are 2.5V... I guess the step drivers are having a hard time powering low voltage motor from a high voltage power supply. I tried powering with 12V and the print went fine with Direct Drive and 95 steps/mm. Living and learning!! Cheers. Alex.by AlexBorro - General
@nophead, my extruder stepper is set to about 1.5A (I`m using DRV8825).. I guess the reason may be the filament I`m using, perhaps too fluid..But it is a good quality one, good adesion, good price and perfect roundness (1.75mm +- 0.02mm!!!) so it is worth building an extruder to use it.by AlexBorro - General
An update on my issue... The prints get pretty much better with 4.7:1 reduction on extruder. Check pictures bellow: I guess there is no need for labels. The results is not perfect, but far better than before. I'm running the extruder with 635 steps/mm. I'm planing increasing to about 1000 steps/mm... Then I ask again: Am I the only one realizing such issue??? Nobody else with 1.75 anby AlexBorro - General
Daniel, you were right: 195 steps/mm: 6mm between "pulses" 96 steps/mm: 12mm between "pulses" I will print new gears to get a 4.7:1 extruder. But I wonder if I'm the first person to realize it ? Nobody else has seen such behavior with direct drive and 1.75 hotends?by AlexBorro - General
Daniel, you had a great idea to isolate the issue. I will try it as soon as I get home! And let you guys know! Thanks Alex.by AlexBorro - General
@nophead, I ran the motor holding the axis with my hands and I can "feel" the steps.. I mean, the rotation is not fluid, it is more like a pulsation.. Since this variation in width is uniform, I could wonder whether this is a result of a pulsed extrusion?!?!? With A4988 ROSC shorted to ground, does the rotation become more fluid?? Maybe the solution will be using a geared extruder 4:1 or more...by AlexBorro - General
I have tried such combinations: - 0.4 nozzle, 1/32th DRV8825, geared extruder (1.5:1) and 8mm hobbed bolt: 470 steps/mm; - 0.4 nozzle, 1/32th DRV8825, direct extruder (11mm pinion): 195 steps/mm; - 0.4 nozzle, 1/16th A4988, direct extruder (11mm pinion): 98 steps/mm; - 0.25 nozzle, 1/16th A4988, direct extruder (11mm pinion): 100 steps/mm; I'm changing the extruder motor right know.. let see whby AlexBorro - General
@mrPrik, I'm using GT2... it is not that tight. I cannot see a relation between belt tight and such issue, but I will give it a try and let you know. @nophead, I've already replaced the hobbed bolt and extruder. Former I was using a regular extruder with a hobbed bolt and know I'm trying a direct extruder with a pinion gear... same issue. Cheers. Alex.by AlexBorro - General
I have just replaced the nozzle - I had a 0.25mm spare one. Same issue About the wobble, I don't think so.. the hotend is well fixed and even on Y axis, when the hotend is not moving, I've got the issue. My next approach will be replacing the motor.. before replacing the hotend. Cheers. Alex.by AlexBorro - General
I've tried from 200C to 240C... same results :-(by AlexBorro - General
Hi Guys, I'm facing an issue with my 1.75mm E3D hotend with 0.4mm nozzle. Looks like the extrusion width is not constant. When I extrude outside the bed (I mean, in the air), the extruded filament looks like pretty regular! But check what happens on prints (good ABS at 220C): Any clue?? Cheers Alex.by AlexBorro - General
You should wire the switches Normally CLOSED,,, That's the way to avoid interference... Do not forget to enable the pullups (should be already turned on in the "stock" makerfarm firmware) Best Regards.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Kakaroto, you can use the Z-Probe for homing as well... actually that is the idea.. When you setup servo for endstop (in this case, for Z endstop), it will engage when you perform homing for Z axis. So you don't need both endstops (Z-Probe and other z-endstop only for homing), unless you are paranoid for safety... Best Regards. Alex.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Hi Daniel, I have a plan to implement a semi-automatic BAL.... it would be by placing a manual probe in the X-Carriage, run the leveling and store data on EEPROM. But unfortunately these days I have not enough time to do that!!! Actually I need people to test it.. implementing is not that hard, but I need extensive tests before releasing an official version. If someone wish to apply for beta teby AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Tarzipan, check this line in your configuration_adv.h, it shout be NOT commented: #define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING Mit freundlichen Grüßen Alex.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Tarzipan, actually the Z Endstop was hit!!! No problem at all with such message.. Best Regards. Alex.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Hi danlyc, yes, you can.. If you use the PC to print, you can do like that: 1) Run G28 for homing; 2) Attach the probe and run G29; 3) Remove the probe; 4) Start Printing... Take care to REMOVE THE G28 COMMAND FROM GCODE!!! Otherwise, it will clean all the leveling information. Best Regards. Alex.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Hi Elicend, this is not a hack, it is a feature ;-) And sure it will work with SDCard. I don't even use PC to print!!! After you perform a G29, the printer will apply the rotation for all incoming move commands like G1. Best Regards.. Alex.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
@kurgancd: Actually you need just one output for your servo, the Signal one... The others are power supply (GND and 5V). You can find some unused output in your board and use it. Of course you still need to supply 5V to the servo. @Justintime: The BAL works independently from the Host... it is done in the firmware.. just send G28 and then G29 commands to the printer and you will see the magic. Yby AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Justintime, many people are asking about similar issue.. I have just added this note on Marlin Readme. Check if it solves your problem: QuoteFor RAMPS users: By default, RAMPS have no power on servo bus (if you happen to have a multimeter, check the voltage on servo power pins). In order to get the servo working, you need to supply 5V to 5V pin.. You can do it using your power supply (if it hasby AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
RAMPS have 6 endstop connections, Max and Min for all 3 axis (X, Y and Z). Wire both endstops (Z Endstop and Z Probe) in series, connect to Z-MIN and enable pullup for Z-MIN.... Check the original configuration.h for endstop section... the original config should work fine for you..by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
In order to have both Z-Endstop and Z-Probe I suggest you using both mechanical. It is possible having a mechanical and optical endstops but it make things a little more complicated. I didn't get what you mean on "empty slot on the right of the ramps". Best regards. Alex.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Your configuration.h seems ok regarding BAL... just change NUM_SERVOS from 3 to 1. Best Regards Alex.by AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics
Hi Zenn, First thanks for the models... the endstop mounting seems nice... does it have a tight fit in servo output axis?? About your issue, if you are using my branch firmware, please download the official Marlin version. The BAL is already integrated I guess you forgot to attach your configuration.h, but try with official version. If the issue were still there, please shoot a video and uploby AlexBorro - General Mendel Topics