Being a Mac computer runs a Unix like OS under the covers, maybe permissions on the USB device?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMcDragon71 I've always been of the mind that if you want to get into something, Fly fishing, 3D printing, CNC, or whatever, is to buy what you can afford, first. Then if you determine you want to progress deeper into the activity, to then spend the money for upgrades or better equipment. Since I am quite active in both fly fishing and 3D printing I'll chime in. I still use the first fly roby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Check out instructables.com. Lots of documented builds. My Instructable using either a plywood or alloy frame: others:by SteveRoy - Reprappers
replace the wingnuts with nylocksby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
To control your printer from a PC try Pronterfaceby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
@Dust I should have paid closer attention to them when I was there :-)by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you talking about a i3 Clone or a genuine Prusa?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
If it's hitting the endstop and the motors don't stop then the endstop isn't working. You need to connect up a computer running pronterface or repitier and send the printer M119 command(s) to test the endstops An M119 will show if the switches are triggered when pressedby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
So if you heat up the nozzle, mark the filament 100mm from the extruder and get pronterface (or similar) to extrude 100mm of filament, it does actually extrude 100mm? If so then check your filament diameter setting in Cura. I think it defaults to 2.85mm and most i3 clones use 1.75mm filamentby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Is it perfectly flat when cool or at room temp? What about at 70c?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like the heat bed is warped. What is it like if you put a steel ruler on edge across the bed? Does it show that it's warped?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I would suggest you build it once using quality parts like a name brand hot-end, solid frame (not acrylic) and quality head-bed. Don't buy junk, build it, then have to do "upgrades" to get decent prints.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
The end stop switches can be "normally open" (NO) or "normally closed" (NC) I wire them up as normally open so when they are pressed the contacts are closed The NO or NC is setup in configuration.h // Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup). #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Y_MIN_by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Get the direction of the motors working first, then the end-stops. Sounds like the X motor wiring is backward I like to make all the end-stops MIN and use this for the X end-stop switch mount:by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
For the Z axis - if you are using 5mm threaded rod then your DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE is properly too high The default is 5, change it to 2 #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} // (mm/sec)by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quoteerniehatt Thanks SteveRoy, Yes that helped a great deal. I now have the homing going in the correct direction, but the X min and max switches are going in the wrong direction, how can I reverse that? But I can live with it If I have to. I'm not sure what you mean by "the X min and max switches are going in the wrong direction" In pronterface or Repieter an X+ direction is the carriage movby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
In your configuration.h: #define X_HOME_DIR 1; This means it's a MAX endstop and is on the right side of the frame const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; This means the X MAX endstop switch is normally closed const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false This means if you have a MIN X endstop it's switch is normally closed Your Y and Z MIN stops are set to true (normally open) so I would chby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Can you connect to the printer with Pronterface? I use Cura as a slicer, pronterface to connect to the printer if I need to do any setup, then print from SD. Once my printer is setup I don't need to connect to it for anything and just print from SD. Only one program at a time can connect to the printer port.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
For the Z axis - it could be your DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE is set too high. In Marlin the default is 5 and needs to be 2 if you are using 5mm threaded rods for the Z axisby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I've built a number of reworks with 10mm threaded rod for the y frame, 8mm smooth rod for x and y axis and 5mm threaded for the z axis and hexagon for the hot-end. If I was to scratch build an i3 today I'd probably look at the MK2 with leadscrews etc. Though none of the reworks I have built needed "auto leveling" I understand why people want it, particularly if they have a China quality kit. Ifby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehichamom thanks for the reply Roberts i dont use the heat bed no the hotend does heat at all it remains 0 degree It should show room temp at least. Start with the thermistor.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
I like this design for the lack tables: It puts the power supply outside the enclosureby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
This was the printer I was going to build before I found the Prusa i3 uses openbeam, so you may be able to use some ideas from itby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
The heat bed can pull 9 amps I = V/R so 12V with a 1.3 ohm head bed is 9.2Aby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
As Dust suggests replace the MOSFET with a IRLB8743BF or get a quality RAMPS like this one from StaticBoards I upgraded both my printers with them.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
On the cheap Chinese RAMPS I have always changed the heat bed MOSFET to a IRLB8743PBF My last couple of builds I have been using a RAMPS from StaticBoards. Much better quality.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
roll your smooth rods on a milled flat surface like a table saw top - do they roll without gaps?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRoberts_Clif The Factory sent Marlin 1.1.2 pre-programmed. Difficult to help without knowing basics of the system configuration. And what he has already done. He is having problems with it. Upgrading to a newer version firmware would only occur if it corrects original firmware or supplies options he requires. I have helped many forum users successfully get their 3D Printers working correctby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
You can't just get random firmware and hope it works - you need to understand what most things in the configuration.h file do. X, Y & Z direction MIN or MAX endstops NO or NC endstops Thermistor values Feed rates Don't try to get everything working in one try, break it down into smaller steps get X and Y moving and their endstops working then move onto the Z endstop (before you try get auto-by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Are the drivers the right way around on the RAMPS?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants