The 3mm filament for support is a good idea. I'm gonna try that. Like you , I wanted more height, so for the z-threads I swapped to longer m6 threaded rods. I have a nut adapter (sam_m6-m8-nut-adapter.stl), in the GitHub, for both m5 and m6 so that we don't need to reprint the x-ends. If we use the i2 z-threads, they come up a bit short. Thanks for posting up your build!by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Wow! That's looking really nice. Haven't seen that extruder you are using there for a long time. ;Pby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Hi rogmatic, That's looking really good! That's a nice extruder setup you have going. Seeing your old mendel is nostalgic. So many years ago. ;P Thanks for posting your build up!by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Hi Jason, My pleasure and thanks for writing in here! I didn't expect anyone else would still look at this given how old the original Mendel project is. I would have thought most of the true DIY machines are gone, so it's really nice to see that some of us still maintain them. Anyhow, good luck on the build! Thanks again! Chrisby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
The file that you linked is just a pulley for the belt to ride on. If your belt is 6mm wide, you shouldn't have a problem.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Hi StardustDragon, I'm not too familiar with this belt type and this is the first I've hear of it used on a reprap. You should be able to reuse the belt clamps that came with the mendel for the heat bed. As for the x-carriage, that part is generic and I just wrap it around then use a cable tie to tidy up the ends. If your original mendel parts won't work, could you send me specs (with pictureby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
@mcmasterp, running marlin 1.1.5 should not be an issue. I checked the boards.h file and you will find it defined as: #define BOARD_MELZI 63 // Melzi #define BOARD_MELZI_MAKR3D 66 // Melzi with ATmega1284 (MaKr3d version) Check the processor on your board to see if it is the ATmega644 or ATmega1284. Adding a LCD can be done, but the limitation is based on the processor youby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
@mcmasterp, Looks great! You're even using the melzi on this one. I do like that spool holder. Does it create extra wobbling being mounted up there on top?by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
LOL!! So you built the first one from scratch and are now doing an upgrade. Guess you'll end up with an mini version now compared to your previous upsized one. ;Pby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
The vertex named "third_party/prusa-leveling-vertex-M8-M4.stl" in the wiki can be replaced with the vertex from the i2. These belong to the front of the machine. "sam_20deg-vertex-L/R" and "sam_vertex-L/R" should be printed new. However if you want to be able to add on the adjustable levelling feet ("sam_leveling-foot.stl") you will need to reprint all the vertexes. Hope that helps. Good luck!by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
LOL... calibration of the extruder is definitely needed. You may find your grinding stops once everything is calibrated cause you won't be pushing as much plastic through. Anyhow, could you send a pic of your setup? Also what diameter filament are you using and what drive gear? Normally the spring only causes a problem when there is lack of tension. Either way a good pic would help.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
I've attached some pictures here. Hopefully you'll be able to figure out what I did. For the x axis pull, there is actually a spacer part "sam_x-end-pulley-spacer.stl" that can be printed if you do no want to use the washers. Also there is "sam_x-end-pulley.stl" which I labeled as do not print, but can be used if you want. I did use it, but I've seen builds without it. Mileage varies for thiby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Hi Ceefus, To be honest you have me a bit lost when you ask about a threaded rods with nuts and set screws. I'll assume that you are talking about the z-axis threaded rod that turns to move the height of your extruder. In mu case I am using 6mm rods for z-height, from the pics that I see mcmasterp has 8mm rods. We both have different methods of coupling the rod to the stepper motor. In my case,by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Wow! Nice! Did things improve with the wooden base? Also do those front supports get in the way of z-height? Could you share the design and some pics of how the top is mounted? I'll add it to the github repository. Thanks! Chrisby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
They are indeed m4. Sorry I never labeled it clearly. It's only in the name for the vertex part "M8-M4" in the wiki. The hole for the nut in each foot might be a bit large for some nuts. I had 2 different batches, the first fit nice, but the second was loose. The hole size in each foot should be slightly under 8mm after print, so measure yours and see if you can measure the nuts you are purchasiby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Yup, the positioning wasn't ideal because of the bolt for the clamp. I overlooked that when was designing it. I actually left out the clamps on both sides. Didn't really need it and I found the belt would rub against it sometimes.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
That's what I did. Here's a pic.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Sainsmart as a source you mean? I've never bought from them but their ramps based boards look good. I use both a melzi and a arduino mega with a ramps board running Marlin. Both work well. Bought them off of aliexpress. If you want to upgrade in the future, look for something based of of the mega2560. You can load more into the 256k memory space and it has more io pins to add other things to. Ifby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Can't wait to see it. Put some pictures here for us when you're done.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
It's a regular non-slip pad that i bought in the hardware shop. Any rubberpad used for furniture that fits will work.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Hi DBrown, @mcmasterp mentioned your i2 bed will work with no issues. I'm still using my original i2 bed, the one you saw was mcmasterp's upgraded 30cm bed. Bed levelling can be done, as well as a bowden setup. I've already done mine and I'll add the new designs to the github repository and you can find them there. Both the bed levelling and bowden components work with the carriage that I designeby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
@mcmasterp: WOW! That looks huge. I can see why the 8mm smooth rods are buckling. Those front supports now gives it the Mendel look again... LOL. I'm curious, why do you still use glass on the aluminium plate? The conversions I've seen show people printing on the aluminium. That would save weight. Also, How long does that new silicon pad take to heat up and what max temp have you been able to gby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Nice! What sort of extruder are you using?by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
I'm not sure where you are getting your schematic diagram for the 40 pin version. I've attached a side-by side for the 44 pin and 40 pin version here. They are taken from and respectively. Although they both show ATMEGA644, the ATMEGA1284 is pin compatible (drop in replacement) so will have no difference. As far as I can see, ports PA0-7, PB0-7, PC0-7, and PD0-7 all map to the same control funcby silpstream - Firmware - mainstream and related support
@markotime, actually the board you have will work with marlin once you declare the correct melzi board in configuration.h. No need to change pins.h at all. I can see why you got confused. You are basically assuming that the marlin firmware is mapping physical pins. This is incorrect. It basically is mapping to arduino defined pins. Arduino maps ports on the chips to their own defined pin numberiby silpstream - Firmware - mainstream and related support
@mcmasterp: Have you upgraded to the 300x300 build plate yet? Any pics to share? I'd really like to know how that worked out. Thanks!by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Quoteinvultri Hello I was looking for a way to recycle my i2 into an i3 and then I found this design, which seems to be a 100% match for what I want. I will be trying to print the parts (with the wade extruder shown in this thread and for y bed). While I am researching the parts to see where they should all go I could not find a Y tensioner. Is this correct or did I miss something ? (found aby silpstream - General Mendel Topics
@FA-MAS: Yes they have the same spacing, but you need to be careful of the spacing between the 2 threaded rods (the one that rotates to move z and the one that holds up the vertical structure). Your x-end and belt needs to fit that gap.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
Looking at your prints, gravity does seem to work. I guess since you are always moving z up it should be fine. If you ever get into auto-leveling and z needs to move in both directions, then some error may occur. The original Prusa i3 seems to not have any anti-backlash and uses only one nut, so for all I know, anti-backlash may be over-rated. The gt2 parts were just added as part of the update.by silpstream - General Mendel Topics
The nut adapters are on the Github repository for this printer. They are part of the m5/m6 updates that I added, along with the couplers and some other bits. After printing the adapters, you may want to sand them a bit for a smoother fit. Why did you choose to remove the upper nut? It was put in there together with a spring to allow for anti backlash (similar to the original i2 design). Howeverby silpstream - General Mendel Topics