ah ok. I see now you have to add the repository for the sanguino in the ide preferences before it shows up in boards manager. my melzi is 1.0 ardentissimo but surprisingly it has the 1284p chip which is nice. Im planning on using a .96" oled which is i2c, It should be supported in marlin as the sd1306. I have it wired up to vcc,gnd, scl, sda so I think all thats left is to alter marlin to use itby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Hey Im trying to hook up an lcd to the Melzi but I realize I need to update the Marlin firmware to enable it. Any ideas on how to update it? I'm not sure if I can use latest Marlin 1.1.5 on my Melzi 1.0 board. Also I couldn't find a Melzi or sanguino board in arduino idea boards manager. I know it's a long shot to ask but I figure I'd tryby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
well I haven't used it too much yet but the tubing is thin and its just stuck down on two 8mm nuts so its not firm, that seems to help it not add wobbleby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
here it is. the spool holder is just a few pieces of irrigation tubing and elbows I had sitting nearby for a temporary solution, though it's working really well so who knows. I used the same wades extruder I used on my larger one since I had a wades on the mendel the parts were already there. My first benchy is pretty ugly but considering it worked straight away I'm not complaining.by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
So funny what a coincidence things are. I just pulled out my old i2 that had never worked well due to hotend heat issues and started printing the Samuel parts yesterday. I have no idea what I'll do with an extra printer but I guess the answer is print more lol. Just wanted to post and thank slipstream once again for the gift that keeps on giving!by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
My endstops where the kind on apcb with a plug for the wire. For the bed endstop i just ziptied the microswitch to the smooth ride with no issues. Let's see a pic of yoursby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Actually i did have to drill a set screw for the z. The bottom trapped nut would work free . I used a small m3 screw, though in other style printers i had to drill a dent into the nut for the set screw to really work. I'll try to post a pic laterby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Oh yeah, the wood made a huge difference in the machines shaking. My my z axis threaded rod leadscrews aren't in bearings at the top so they can move around rather than the guild rods since they're also 8mm. They used to slap about in the empty spot where the top 608 bearings should be, now they barely move. 12mm guide rods would probably change the whole calculation in a great way in terms of riby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
thanks! I saw that m4 note and assumed but wanted to check. It went very well I used m4 bolts I had intended to use for feet long ago .7 hardware and nuts. here's a pic of the hardware and the printer bolted down. I put many rubber feet on the bottom of the wood so the bolt heads wouldn't scratch the table and isolation.by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Still loving my samuel XL or "Jackson" as I like to call it. I updated my marlin firmware to the recent 1.7.6 rc8 the other day and it prints even better. As a matter of fact I think it could go much faster but due to the increased size of my machine and the rigidity limits of the rods etc. it shakes too much at high speeds. Even with the added front supports the shaking can effect the extruder.by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
your i2 bed should work perfectly with the provided files. I used a different carriage then @silpstream provided because I like the way it clears the rods, so you can use anyone you can make fit really. I've never used a bowden extruder but I don't see why this design would stop you from using oneby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Well I feel pretty stupid. I was trying to solve my clogging issues and was editing my printers config and what do you know, wobble gone. It was accel and jerk settings is my guess.by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
@miocid: Hey goo luck with the conversion. posts pics! @silpstream I printed this carriage: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:102514 and used the round bearings. I have the blocks as well but this seemed easier to line up straight. I just used zip ties to hold the 12mm rods on the printer 20" one hang over just 1/2" or so. the rod with the single bearing on it is only ziped at one end the otherby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Damn me. I went ahead and bought 2 12mm smooth rods 500mm long each, 4 12mm bearing blocks, and 4 lm12uu bearings just incase the blocks don't workout. I'll replace bed rods etc and see how the wobble is and report back.by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Sorry I missed your message about the bed. Yes I did get it done. I upgraded the power supply and made sure it had a fan in it. The ramps relays can't handle the amps so they just trigger a larger automotive relay. The plates are aluminum plates from Lowes, almost to thick to bend by hand and they have a diamond pattern on one side. Not ideal but cheap and fast. I got a silicone heating pad sizby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
I didn't have issues with thickness. If you mean that when you tighten the screw down it cracks along the layer line try printing standing up with support material so the layers go in the other directionby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Is this the one you mean?by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
I'm sure the OP will have more insight, he did an incredible job creating this design which in my opinion is a superior progression from i2 to i3. From my experience I can tell you I've never found the need for a belt tensioner on the y. I have always just pulled really hard before the final tighten down of the clamps on the bed. If I really thought one was necessary I've seen printable ones onby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
I think they probably do but the new ones also give you feet and otherwise contribute to stability.by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
I also use z lift of .3mm in my printing, I found it allows for better finished prints especially if they have a lot of separate little parts like spikes etc. The set screw on the single nut probably helps with z lift too. Oh I see with the mount, makes sense now. I may in the future convert my i2 with a melzi to an i3 Samuel then they will come in handy.by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
I removed the upper nut to allow wobble in the threaded rod to be less transmitted to the carriage...and because I can't find any springs to fit! lol. I bought different ones from 2 different hardware stores but they were all not close enough in size for whats needed. I was getting issues without the screw so figured why not just remove the upper nut and use a set screw on the lower one. let gravby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
thanks for the coupler info and pics. where did you get the nut adapters for the rod? I guess ill look on thingiverse. is nut adapter the right search term? Printing has been very good first a new printer. I got rid of the top bearing like you did, took out the higher nut of the two and drilled through the parts and into the bottom nuts a little to add a set screw to make up for the lost upperby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
interesting. I wonder what advantage thinner rod and printed couplers have? do the nuts for the m6 fit in the traps on idle and motor parts? do you have a good link to the m5/m6 mod I could look at? The steppers don't have stickers but are stamped. heres a pic. I found a link to the only steppers listed on sainsmarts website, it looks the same accept black wire instead of yellow. sainsmart steppby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Thanks! What problems did you have with the z? what do you mean by m5/m6 mods? thinner z rods? the extruder is great, it is rotated from normal wades to allow more x movement. I actually didn't choose it for the stepper sizing,I just use it with great success on my i2 and wanted it again (I even hobbed my own bolt after building "the little bolt hobber" from thingiverse). i attached a zip withby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Admirable of you. If you don't mind I'll be refering to it as the I3 samuel since it describes the design better. Since the one I built is larger I was gonna call it the i3 Samuel "L" variant but instead maybe "I3 Jackson" is funnier. I made all rods larger by 100mm, used a different extruder design, added a few tiny pieces like endstop mounts,a diffeent x carriage for gt2 belts and parts coolingby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Sweet. Yes much clearer. I went ahead and got a parts kit with everything i need to build a 2nd machine (hopefully). I'll try to take some pics and send them your way in case they're useful. It'll probably be multi colored so i don't use up all of one color. So far I've printed with purple because i have so much and no one ever orders things printed in purple (except my 3yr old daughter). Pink fby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
Oh and whats the difference between sam_y-lm8uu-spring and no spring? thanks again!by mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics
thanks for the details! I'll probably have more questions as I go along I understand the rush to build, I'm terrible at documenting the things I do except for some after pics and disjointed commenting haha. I'm gonna try to build the samuel next to my i2 as much as possible. I have rods shipping from mcmaster-carr and I starting the printing now. I plan on using extra long rods anywhere I can tby mcmasterp - General Mendel Topics