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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: Banding problem - 11 years ago
The stuttering and scraping noise is because something is binding in the X end. Does that thing use tensioning springs for the threaded rods?by Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Banding problem - 11 years ago
QuoteI also made another observation. When the X carriage assembly is at the top on the Z axis, the left hand Z threaded rod points to the left in the lower end Z part (where there would usually be a bearing). As I lower the X carriage assembly on the Z axis, the rod slowly centers itself The Z motor is out of line with the carriage. QuoteIs there any guide or tutorial paper that would be helpfby Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Banding problem - 11 years ago
It adjusts everything to match the extrusion width. the only difference is that you decide that parameter rather than allowing Slic3r to take a guess. Every hot end has different characteristics. I have only ever used my brand which is all metal with tapered chamber and longer than average orifice, it seems happy running + or - .01 of the nozzle diameter but that doesn't mean that yours will. Youby Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Banding problem - 11 years ago
Hi fractal5, Before you go messing any more with your machine you might want to try adjusting your Slic3r settings. When using Slic3r you should always look at the top of your Gcode. I can see no rhyme or reason in the way it calculates extrusion widths. I sliced an object using your .15 height setting and this what I got. ; layer_height = 0.15 ; perimeters = 3 ; top_solid_layers = 3 ; bottom_sby Bruce - Reprappers
Re: 0.7mm to 0.3mm nozzle - 11 years ago
3d2013 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i just want to change my 0.7mm nozzle to 0.3mm > nozzle , anyone know can just change the nozzle > like that? All that you have to do is adjust your slicer settings to match the smaller nozzle. Back pressure issues and comparisons is much ado about nothing. Smaller nozzles print smaller tracks at presumably smalleby Bruce - General
Re: Special Request - 25x25cm print bed - 11 years ago
QuoteLOL! I'm operating with reduced staff right now,(aka my wife is out of town) which is why the error happened in the first place. Hope she lets you live that one down…. Not that I would know anything about being in a situation like that. QuoteMaybe I could order a few more things from you guys and get the proper hot end with that. I'll look at what I need over the next little while. Justby Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Special Request - 25x25cm print bed - 11 years ago
Quoteit looks like I can easily modify the aluminium radiator plate to fit the Prusa compatible extruder I am building. .......Umm....... Not to challenge your innovative prowess but It might be prudent to bypass the possibility of alignment or cooling issues and exchange it for the proper model..... Split the postage?by Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Warning: Switching LED Power Supplies - 11 years ago
Out of the 100 that we bought 11 were no good right out of the box. Several more crapped out on our customers and we had to replace. That being said, the first one that we wired up has been in service pretty much every day for over a year now. The longest print went 22 hrs. and it managed to heat the bed up to 140 degrees (trying get polycarbonate to not warp ). So I guess it's a crap shoot. Weby Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Special Request - 25x25cm print bed - 11 years ago
Yvan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bruce, is your nichrome wire the insulated type? It's double wound with 2mil kapton, the same stuff that we use in our hot ends. Speaking of which: Have you got thing installed yet? Here's a pic I put the mosfet on the bed so you can see what it looks like. The circuit is simple. The terminal block is dispensable.by Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Special Request - 25x25cm print bed - 11 years ago
If you decide to go the nichrome route we have about ¾ of a kilometer of the stuff. Also, as per Jeremy: We also have MOSFETs that are rated to 240Amps with an internal resistance of 0.2 mOHM which means that you can run a pretty heavy duty bed without needing to heatsink the FET. MOSFET circuits are very easy to setup, they can run high currents and are very cheap. If you ever find yourself inby Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Building a levelling jig - 11 years ago
Do you mean the Y carriage? All the ecksbot files are here. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26354by Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Special Request - 25x25cm print bed - 11 years ago
The ecksbot bed is 8 X 9 and uses a 2 layer aluminum bed with nichrome. With bearings, clips and control circuit it weighs ~ 900 grams. At 10” X 10” it would probably weigh a little over 1 kg. That’s all I have ever used so I don’t know what a traditional setup would weigh. I know that with 63 oz-in, motors it prints very happily using modest acceleration settings at 60mm/sec doing square grid inby Bruce - Reprappers
Re: Missing material on last layer - 11 years ago
I found this explanation in Marlin on github. QuoteIf you have an M84 "stop all motors" command in your end code then that can cause whatever is in your command buffer to stop executing. That is, G commands are buffered, M commands are executed immediately. So if there are any remaining G commands in the buffer (which I believe is only 16 commands long) when the M84 comes along, then you'll loseby Bruce - General Mendel Topics
Re: Missing material on last layer - 11 years ago
Nicolinux Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @Bruce > Thanks, will try it. But how come that other > printer don't need it? Other printer? Is it using Marlin firmware?by Bruce - General Mendel Topics
Re: Missing material on last layer - 11 years ago
Add M400 (Finish all buffered moves) at the beginning of the end code in your slicer.by Bruce - General Mendel Topics
Repetier Host .90b Sd card no worky - 11 years ago
After updating from .85b I couldn't print from the SD card. Everything seemed normal until I hit the print button. Then I got this message: open failed, File: 3. (3 is the first character of the .g file). I have 4 different printers running on the same computer under 4 different user profiles using 2 different versions of Marlin and 1 using Repetier firmware (which is working very well by the wayby Bruce - Repetier
Re: Stickiness of Kapton increases over time? - 11 years ago
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The white marks on the bottom are from shearing > the ABS. It goes white when it is stressed. To > remove them I just use a quick blast from a hot > air gun. I give them a light dusting with a mini torch. It also works great for cleaning up those pesky little white spots left behind by support.by Bruce - General
Re: Stickiness of Kapton increases over time? - 11 years ago
I wonder when you first clean your bed if the acetone might be leaching a little of the adhesive up through the seams smearing a slight film on the surface. Just a thought, my Kapton is wide enough to cover the entire bed so I don’t have any seams to deal with and my Kapton is consistent from first print until last. It might explain why adhesion seems to improve for you over numerous cleanings.by Bruce - General
Re: Routing extruder and hot end wires - 11 years ago
Spiral wrap works pretty good.by Bruce - General
Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? 
It looks CLEAN - 12 years ago
The bed is much easier to level If you use fully threaded mounting bolts. You can anchor the head of the bolt to the bed with a nut and then use the carriage mounting nuts to level it.by Bruce - General
Re: Parametric Sculpture / Aug 15 to Aug 21 - 2012 - 12 years ago
Oh crap!!! I forgot! My bad.... Sorry. I've been really busy. Although there were few entrants there was a good representation of machine variations. The sample was printed on a modified Sells Mendel. The entries were printed on an SAE Prusa, an over sized MendelMax, a Prusa / ecksbot mix up...?, and a Mendel 90. The nozzle sizes went from .35 to .5. The improvement in the abilities of RepRapby Bruce - Competitions
Parametric Sculpture / Aug 15 to Aug 21 - 2012 - 12 years ago
This sculpture is similar to the Voronoi but the features are larger and easier to print with a larger nozzle, hopefully it will inspire more people to enter the competition ... and no the flower is not printed . it's just to show that you can use this as a weed pot or pencil holder or whatever. So the winner gets a little reward for their efforts I am adding in a small prize of an Eckertech hby Bruce - Competitions
Re: Double Helix / Week of July 31 to Aug 6 - 2012 - 12 years ago
To the winner go the spoils. You get....... To make a mew competition! This is beginning to sound like work, lol. I already had a print in mind DeuxVis. However, if you win the competition you can create it yourself. I thought it only fitting that since the validity of my hobbed bolt design was brought into question on another thread that I would post something with lots of retractions.by Bruce - Competitions
Re: Double Helix / Week of July 31 to Aug 6 - 2012 - 12 years ago
Oh..... Thank you Andrew, didn't realize I had actually entered the contest.by Bruce - Competitions
Re: Double Helix / Week of July 31 to Aug 6 - 2012 - 12 years ago
It was printed from a sample spool of ABS from a new supplier, it seems to stick a bit better than what we have been using so far. The nozzle used is a .4. This is the Slic3r settings. ; generated by Slic3r 0.8.4 on 2012-08-01 at 13:09:38 ; layer_height = 0.2 ; perimeters = 2 ; solid_layers = 3 ; fill_density = 0.26 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.38 ; filament_diameter = 2.89 ; extrusion_multiplierby Bruce - Competitions
Re: Double Helix / Week of July 31 to Aug 6 - 2012 - 12 years ago
You could try printing 2 at onceby Bruce - Competitions
Re: Is this a bad hobbed bolt? - 12 years ago
Didn't realize this thread was about bowden extruder's. How do you even get wander on a bowden extruder? It doesn't move. Try angling the filament at 40 degrees or so where it enters the hobbed bolt on your accessible Greg's extruder with no guidler and see how it works. I can run kinked filament through a wades. Now..... You're telling me.... That if I tighten down the idler on my hobbed boltby Bruce - Mechanics
Re: Is this a bad hobbed bolt? - 12 years ago
It looks like a nice bolt to me, as a matter of fact it looks like my design, could even be one of mine. After personally processing a little over 3/4 of a ton of ABS and a couple of hundred Lbs. of PLA through that bolt design without issue and with well over 1000 of my own bolts out in the wild I can safely say that the bolt is not your problem ( As long as you have it installed properly) Instaby Bruce - Mechanics
Re: Someone to finish Mendel [Toronto] - 12 years ago
Hi Vince, That sucks. If you want to make the drive to St. Catharines I can help you out. Or you can try using this How to forum I haven't quite finshed it yet but most of the major stuff is covered.by Bruce - Wanted