Hey Guys! I followed the instructions in this page to install marlin on MKS SBASE and I am having a slight issue. I am able to generate the .BIN file. But once I reboot the board, only .CUR file is being generated, the eprom.dat is not there. I am using ATOM on MacOS EL Capitan. Also, am not able to connect to the board once I do that. The board itself is good, I was running smoothie earliby warankarp - Firmware - Marlin
Hello, I am building a Prusa Steel from scratch, however, the stl files that are available on the thingiverse and other places work only for a smaller diameter lead screw. I have purchased the one as shown in the link below. does anyone have the stl files for X carriage mounts with belt tensioner for this model ?by warankarp - Prusa i3 and variants
No, I did not try that. But I ended up changing the limits in firmware as stated above and things work fine now.by warankarp - General
how to set the stepper current ? should that be done on firmware or on the board with the stepper screws ?by warankarp - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hey, Thanks for posting your updates. So, which driver would you recommend for RUMBA ? I only have the A4988 from my old ramps board and I would prefer to reuse them. I think i would need a new hot end though, but apart from that do I need to get anything different for the 24V PSU ? Please point me to your firmware changes as well, I hav not played with PWM settings for 24vby warankarp - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Yeah. But this is a standard Power supply that came with the machine: Output 24V 16.7A . That should be good for 2 extruders and one bed right ? I can replace the fuse, but wondering if this will happen again. Any solutions ?by warankarp - Controllers
Hello All, The 5A fuse that is surrounded by the Power input, LCD pins and heater inputs: F3 i believe, blew up today when I was running a print on TAZ 5 dual extruder. The other 2 fuses seem to be fine. This happened after a few hours of printing and calibrating. Any idea how this could have happened ? I upgraded to the dual nozzle like 5 months back. It was running fine.by warankarp - Controllers
Yeah. M500 on Printrbot returns the offset though. But they have their own custom command M212.by warankarp - General
Is there a way to read this value once set? I do a M851 and then do a M500 to store it. But M501 does not display this settingby warankarp - General
Hello All, I have auto bed leveling configured on my 3D Printer. Here is what my config file reads for custom M codes Marlin v1.1 // Custom M code points #define CUSTOM_M_CODES #ifdef CUSTOM_M_CODES #define CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET 851 #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -15 #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX -5 I am trying to send M851 Z-1.5 and it is not taking effect because of thiby warankarp - General
Hello All, Can someone explain the logic behind the bed leveling process. I went through the vector_3 cpp and .h files but could not really figure out. Bed x: 20.00 y: -40.00 z: 0.15 Bed x: 260.00 y: -40.00 z: 0.76 Bed x: 260.00 y: 80.00 z: 1.00 Bed x: 20.00 y: 80.00 z: 0.67 Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00 b: 0.00 d: 0.30 planeNormal x: -0.00 y: -0.00 z: 1.00 Can someone explain how 0.3 was caby warankarp - General
Eried, For the probe, Did you split the power input using 2 resistors or did you directly plug it into the Zmin endstop ? I am wondering whether I should use the 7805 Voltage regulator or just a couple of resistors Also, can you share your config file ? **editedby warankarp - General
Thanks for the input guys Here are some information I was able to get about the printer over the weekend. Its a HICTOP Prusa i3 from bought on Amazon. Runs Marlin I have the hex file for this firmware. The only problem is the board has some issues. So, I want to use a RAMPS 1.4 board for now and implement this before I get that fixed or probably the same board ->MKS so that i dont have to mby warankarp - General
This seems like such a daunting task. Is there any work around ? How do I copy EEPROM settings without connecting to the printer ? I need the calibration steps and few other numbers. This is for Prusa i3 Hictop version.by warankarp - General
No luck yet. I am going to try their forum thanks. I was looking for more general troubleshooting stepsby warankarp - General
Hello, I have a hex dump file of my firmware, which I would like to open and read. My goal here is to copy values from the config.h and pins.h file. This is for Marlin Please let me know if there is any converter or a reader that can do this Thanks in Advanceby warankarp - General
I used the firmware from this link -> Marlin_prusa The LCD panel is working now. But the steppers are moving only in one direction. It is not going in the negative direction. Is this coz of the endstops ?by warankarp - General
I tried what you mentioned. But could not get it to workby warankarp - General
Hello, I am unable to make my test board work. I tried changing settings on the config.h file and pins.h. LCD is blank and motors are not responding. I used the latest marlin v1.1 with BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFF configuration It is a Ramps 1.4 board on Arduino Mega AT2560. I have also connected a LCD panel in this. Can someone send me the firmware file for this version. This is just for test purposeby warankarp - General
Hello! I am having trouble connecting to my see me cnc orion 3d printer.My printer is working fine from the LCD panel. Here are the list of troubleshooting steps tried. No error message. Rep Host command window is just blank, not connecting on pronterface (also Cura) OS: Mac Software used: Rep Host, Pronterface, Cura 1. Checked baud rate at both 115200 and 250000 on both machine settings andby warankarp - General
Quotegmckee From the power supply to controller if you have a heated bed go with 16 or 18 gauge solid core. 18 gauge stranded got to hot for me. Ends tips don't need to be thick, motors about the same? Thanks, For now, Am planning to re-use the wires from an old power cord. I want to do a bench test for my ramps board For end stops, I am thinking if it would just be cheaper buying a spare setby warankarp - RAMPS Electronics
Hello All, This is a very basic question. Could not find information with keyword search. I need to buy some extra wires for the power cable, end stops and stepper motors. What is the AWG size for each of these? Also, where can i buy them online other than ebay ? I only see people selling kits, none selling the wiring aloneby warankarp - RAMPS Electronics
Any updates on this ? I know its been a long time, if you are done with the project, could you share the documentation ?by warankarp - Wire and Thread Embedded Extrusion
The filament guide does the job, its not a perfect or neat design. The guide although clamped, has a play along the horizontal axis, which actually gives way when the filament is rushed along the x-axis. But by far it has kept the filament from kinking or snapping when i move the z- axis and x axis all the way through. I wrapped the lead screw with a thread seal tape, just a couple of turns andby warankarp - Reprappers
There small grub screw used to keep the heating element in place is doing the job for me. The wires for both the heating rod and the thermistor seem to be tightly wrapped and hence the thermistor is not slipping out. But the silicone glue might be a good idea to consider Also, I had designed a small guide for the z-axis wobble. Its on thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1097692) . checby warankarp - Reprappers
Quoteeried Didn't your motor shafts had a small flat part? Actually, they do, like Pat said, they hav 2 grub screws, the problem is they are not tightly fixed on to the shaft (being smooth), so over time it loosens. But the one in extruder that holds the drive gear is actually tight. Not sure of the reason.by warankarp - Reprappers
UPDATE: The x-axis pulley was the culprit. It loosened on the stepper and hence was slipping. I should have checked, but missed it somehow. I tightened it now, but still doesn't give the tight grip even with 2 grub screws (due to the smooth shaft surface i guess). Should I keep checking on this every now and then or is that a better way to fasten this ? Anyhow the printing is back to normal. Aby warankarp - Reprappers
Quoteeried Where did you get the nozzle replacement for the hictop prusa? I ordered the replacement from HICTOP (on amazon) Quoteputzer Look like loose belt to me. Put finger on drive to see how warm it is. Check voltage on driver. Maybe it needs to be increased. Driver gone bad? I checked the y and x belts, they seem to be tight. Is there a step-by-step instruction on checking the voltage onby warankarp - Reprappers
QuoteEvil Monkey You checked all the bolts but did you adjust the belt tension? With such a small print, I don't think the stepper motor drivers are overheating, but check them out as well. I did not adjust the belt tension, can do that. How to check if the drivers are over heating ? and should i put an additional Fan in that case ?by warankarp - Reprappers
The last few days my printer has been running into all sorts of issues with my printer. My prints are all over the plate and so random. (see pictures) One thing that has been consistent is each layer is offset from the adjacent layer along the x-axis. Steps taken: 1. replaced nozzle : as I had been using carbon fiber filament and thought there was a chance of eroded nozzle 2. bed leveling anby warankarp - Reprappers