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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: Which Kit? Railcore? SecKit? Other? - 3 months ago
Thanks for the helpful summary DD. I wil look into what you said. I.m going to reread your thread on this site. I started then got busy. I’ll also check your blog. Perhaps I can. Do this without too much time invested,by mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Which Kit? Railcore? SecKit? Other? - 3 months ago
Hi All, This may be an older thread but still applies to my questions. I have a Cartesian printer (clone prusa p3 steel). I want to build a CoreXY with a 350x350x400 give or take. My city recently opened a nice maker space, and I was going to build something like the UMMD. But I don’t know if I’ll have the time to put into it. There is some appeal for me to learn how to use shop tools like the lby mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: thermistor ferrule alternative - 5 years ago
Thanks all for your suggestions. There is a hobby store in town that I went to. They had aluminum tubing rods that were around 1.5mm inside diameter. I cut them to 10mm sizes with a dremel, and it worked perfectly.by mlaustin66 - General
Re: thermistor ferrule alternative - 5 years ago
I know I can order them. I was looking for a quick fix to get it working today.by mlaustin66 - General
thermistor ferrule alternative - 5 years ago
I need to replace a thermistor and only have 1 crimp ferrule. It seems that no local stores carry something that small. Are there any alternatives?by mlaustin66 - General
Re: Jamming question - 5 years ago
Here is an example of what is happening. It was worse on other prints. So starts out great, jams, and limited flow out of the nozzle unlike the start. Extruder works fine when filament is outside of hotend.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 5 years ago
Do you mean the hotend transistor? I don't see how a driver would be the issue as the only driver in the mix is the extruder driver, which works fine. But if the hotend transistor was failing, I would think the thermistor would pick up the fluctuations. Do you have a link to that thread? It would be worth checking out. I'm still thinking it is the hotend. I say this because it starts toby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Extruder skipping in a pattern - 5 years ago
Many times the extruder skipping is because of a hot end jam. I’m having a problem with my E3Dv6 right now caused by heat creep. The heat from the heat zone creeps up the hotend causing the filament not in the hot zone to soften. Then the extruder cannot push the filament throught because it’s too soft causing it to jame. Keepting the fan blowing is key, and you can see if this is a prbblem bby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 5 years ago
Spoke too soon. Jammed again 1/3 of the way through a print. Not a fan of E3D.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 5 years ago
Sure enough, it is heat creep. I checked the ohms on the thermistor, and it was close to 100K. I had the original fan lying around (I had replaced it with a quieter one with close to the CFM output). The new fan must have started to fail. I can't believe this hotend is that sensitive. I'll be replacing this hotend soon.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 5 years ago
E3dv6 is mentioned in my body. It is a bowden style. Yes there is a fan. It is in the front to pull in the coldest air (had it in the back which sucked). I cleared the nozzle with piano wire. My retract is 4mm, but as I've said I had no issues with this. It's PETG, so it needs more. And the bowden tube is not short (but not too long). I just checked the fins, and they are cool to the toucby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 5 years ago
E3dv6 is mentioned in my body. It is a bowden style. Yes there is a fan. It is in the front to pull in the coldest air (had it in the back which sucked). I cleared the nozzle with piano wire. My retract is 4mm, but as I've said I had no issues with this. It's PETG, so it needs more. And the bowden tube is not short (but not too long). I just checked the fins, and they are cool to the toucby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Jamming question - 5 years ago
I’ve been good at identifying and fixing problems on my P3 steel. It’s been working flawlessly until last night. The extruder starting skipping, which usually means a jam on my machine. I noticed this 2 hours after, so I cleaned out the extruder. Filament moves fine outside of the hotend. What I noticed before cleaning is that there were blobs of hard plastic on the heat bed from dripping. Wheby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Filiment not extruding - 6 years ago
QuoteSteveRoy Quotemlaustin66 . PLA is a bitch to print, at least it is for me with an e3d v6. The filament for me kept jamming up, so I cannot print with it. Does the extruder skip? That is a sign of a jam and filament stripping. When using PLA you must have a cooling fan blowing air across the fins of the hot-end so there is no heat creep up the throat. Heat creep causes the PLA to jamb.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: heatbed question - 6 years ago
I have a smootieboard clone, so the mosfets are pretty huge. It still managed to burn out the terminal block and shut down the board. Luckily the mosfet doesn't look blown. So an external mosfet will probably do little. A RAMPS board wasn't so kind, and I ended up blowing about 3 of them which made me switch. The other option is an mk3 heatbed. Then I need to buy another print bite surfaby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
heatbed question - 6 years ago
I have an aluminum build plate with a silicone heater. The silicone heater keeps burning things up on the circuit board from too much power draw, so I am going to replace it. Since I have print bite on the aluminum, I was going to attach an MK2 PCB heatbed to it. Would I attach it with heat transfer tape? Or is there some other method to follow?by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Filiment not extruding - 6 years ago
Are the screws for the filament feed tensioner tight enough but not too tight? The filament should not have a dent in it from the bearing. I use a bowden extruder, so this is referencing my setup. PLA is a bitch to print, at least it is for me with an e3d v6. The filament for me kept jamming up, so I cannot print with it. Does the extruder skip? That is a sign of a jam and filament strippinby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: extruder skipping need help - 6 years ago
I always like to come back with resolutions if I can. I replaced the hotend fan. That helped a little. It got the PETG to print again. Unfortunately, the PLA continues to jam. So I will be avoiding PLA.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: extruder skipping need help - 6 years ago
I'm at my wits end trying to troubleshoot this. It wouldn't be a PLA issue because of PETG because I get the same problem with PETG. It never did this before. I tried to mess with a few things. I messed around with E acceleration, and no change. I messed around with E voltage and no change. I tried to change the E spring tension, and no change (loose did nothing, and various tight settingsby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
extruder skipping need help - 6 years ago
I have a P3 Steel that was running great with PETG in the past. I'm running smoothieware. I have a bowden setup with a tube that's approximately 380mm. When things were running fine, I had retraction set to 6mm at 150mm a second with the extruder acceleration at 5000mm/s2. The effective retraction at the hotend looks to be between 2mm and 3mm. Like I said, zero problems printing with this seby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China - 6 years ago
I didn't think about doing that as my other z stepper is using that driver. I guess I can quickly put them in parallel to test the E1 driver. Thanks for the suggestion.by mlaustin66 - Controllers
Re: New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China - 6 years ago
Hello, I just switched from Ramps and Repetier to the MKS and Smoothie. I've had a bunch of issues. Most have been resolved, but there are a couple of lingering issues I was hoping to get help with. I have a Prusa I3 clone. I'm having issues with endstops. Homing works fine. But if I kit the end stop it doesn't recognize to stop. Do I need to set this up as a limit switch? Also with Repeby mlaustin66 - Controllers
Re: heater decoupled mid print - 7 years ago
I have a similar heatbed and heater, butt not the same brand. When I switched out all the Mosfets to better ones on the prior Ramps, they were warm to the touch not steaming hot. The problem is it's a pain in the ass to switch Mosfets and easy to damage the conductor pads on the PCB. That board ran great until something else fried on it. So I'm over arduino/Ramps.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: heater decoupled mid print - 7 years ago
I thought I'd post an update to this thread. It ended up being a fan control board on that particular Ramps 1.4 board. I took out the fan control board, and it ran flawlessly for a while. I had replaced the Mosfets for better Mosfets as well as I have a 200W silicone heater, and the original Fets feel like they are going to melt...super hot. Had to put in another Ramps 1.4 board for various rby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: heater decoupled mid print - 7 years ago
I found an interesting observation. I was going to plug it into my computer to do the failed print over and watch the log. This came up when plugged in. 12:26:19.536 : DebugLevel:6 12:26:19.536 : SelectExtruder:0 12:26:20.443 : DebugLevel:14 12:26:20.457 : Other:: temp sensor defect marked defect 12:26:20.457 : heated bed: working 12:26:20.457 : Error: Printer set into dry run mode until restaby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: heater decoupled mid print - 7 years ago
Looking at the wires, there is no visible wear either at the hotend, heatbed, or ramps board. If there was an issue, my guess is it would be up front and not 25% through a print.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
heater decoupled mid print - 7 years ago
Everything with my machine was going smoothly until the other day. I was 25% through the print, and the hot end and heatbed were at 0 degrees. I happens approximately at 3mm height. I've tried 3 times and the same result. I have no idea what could be casing this. I have a temperature gun, and the heatbed heats up to temperature. Could it be a thermistor? But if so why would both hotend andby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: I admit defeat, A little help with my P3steel of you please. - 7 years ago
Hey Voyager. I have the Toolson edition, and it was a pain in my ass getting it working correctly. So I feel your pain. First, you didn't state what material you are printing. That would help before going down some recommendations. You mentioned brim which I assume is the same as skirt in slic3r. It can be solid depending on how many lops it does. It's hard to tell if it's under extruding fby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Extruder Problem... - Solved, sort of - 7 years ago
Yeah I had that short problem. You most likely blew the 5v regulator on the Arduino board. It then only worked connected to the USB port. Used it for a bit that way and ended up blowing a MOSFET perhaps because the regulator was out of whack. So I just replaced the RAMPS and Arduino. If you want to adjust the regulators, take it off of the mains power supply and just keep the USB in. It's enby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: ATX and LED psu dillema - 7 years ago
Thanks. I'll figure out what to do. I may just keep the original wires, combine them, and just go direct into RAMPS. It's not as clean as yours, but then again I don't have to worry about the extension wire gauge. I had the issue of using a soldering iron on a PCB with RAMPS, and it wouldn't melt the solder. If you melt non lead solder over it, it will all heat up and melt allowing you toby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants