Afternoon All. I would like to learn gCode the conditional stuff not just move from A to B and I'm a little nervous of trying out on my printer although that might be the only way to do it. There seem to be a number of videos, what resources wold you recommend? Many Thanks aamcleby aamcle - General
I have an unopened role of ABS I was given some years ago and I doubt it was new then. Posibly 5+ years old. If I dry it will it still be usable? Thanks aamcleby aamcle - General
Thanks, l think I'm going to use the top off a RatRig V3 plus the pretty printhead Atbby aamcle - General
Wanted CoreXY, top half? I built a Box style Cartesian printer but it's too slow for the volume so I'd like to convert it to a CoreXY. It's built with 3030 extrusion (not V Slot), I want to keep the build plate, both the Z axis assemblies, the board is 32bit and will be reused. My first thought was to build a Hypercube Evolution top end (retaining my build plate and both Z axis) but altby aamcle - General
I built a printer using 3030 and Makerbot kinematics a simple Carteasian bot, I designed it my self did the CAD and printed the parts. This was the first time I'd done anything like that and although it works as expected I lost a lot of bed space and I put the electronics in what I now find to be the most inconvenient place possible. So I want to do a rebuild, my choices are to keep the veryby aamcle - Extruded Aluminum Frames
No the Y motion is not done with those belts, you still need a conventional set of Y axis rods and belts to move the printhead +- in Y. The problem is that the diagram is minimal at best, I have tried to link to the wiki page but with out much success. I'll try again better diagram and discussionby aamcle - Mechanics
There is one stepper at the back. I think I have worked out the problem there are a lot of wheels, direction changes and the belt is long. I don't think it's in that respect its worse than CoreXY motion but it's only moving the printhead. Atb. Aamcleby aamcle - Mechanics
I'm interested in the Dual Wire gantry shown :- There would need to be simple modifications so the belt isn't twisted other than that it seems good. Simply does it work and is it any good? The printer would have a 200x200mm build plate. Atb. Aamcle )by aamcle - Mechanics
Cartesian Printer - falling bed. Firstly I don't want to use a Bowden setup and I thinking of a build plate of 200x200mm. If I use a light weight printhead assembly do I really need a Nema17 at the end of the axis or can I use the lighter Nema14? What are your thoughts on an Orbiter and an E3dV6 as the printhead assembly? Considering most of the weight is in the motors are there any othere waby aamcle - Extruded Aluminum Frames
From what I have read print speeds are low 20 to 50mmsec for PC or Nylon so a simple design like my old CTC would be sufficient. Aamcleby aamcle - General
I have built a Carteasian printer with a falling bed. It's nothing revolutionary or novel and it works well but it’s a big brute, I overdid it. 600x460x460mm frame. I have been trying to setup an old but modified CTC Dual (Mks Gen L, JHead) to print Nylon and PC however it’s not going very well, the old dear is really past its sell by date. So I’m thinking of building another smaller printer wby aamcle - General
Do you mean longer Nema17s or have you gone to 23s? I have just had a look at the SwitchWire Bom there's nothing specialzbout the steppers and no particularly large wheel. How have they managed to resolve the issue? Aamcleby aamcle - Mechanics
Ahh, I didn't know that so that's why a big wheel is often included it's aim would be to use full steps! Thanks aamcleby aamcle - Mechanics
I understand that belts may not be as good as screws for lifting a heavy heated bed with a weight of plastic. The Voron printers 2.4 and Switch Wire use belts to lift the X axis or motion carage. However some of the things I have read suggested there would not be enough resolution (Z steps per mm) unless a large pulley is included. Assuming a normal 1.9° stepper that's 200 steps per rotation iby aamcle - Mechanics
I have a very old printer (CTC Dual) that's still running if very slowly and I wonder about the state of the rods and bearings. The hotend has been upgraded and all other appropriate upgrades done except the bed platform. Is there some reasonable way to check to see if any of the mechanical bits should be replaced? I have the feeling that the poor old thing might be nearly beyond its econby aamcle - Mechanics
Progress! It's going the right way triggering the Bl Touch but and there always seems to be a but.... Using ABL the bed comes up triggers the probe then drops about 10mm moves to 0,0 tries and fails to probe ( I think the gap to the bed is too great) and the drops the bed about a further 10mm. I didn't get the chance go set the Z offset the bed just dropped..... There is still some flaw in mby aamcle - General
I'm not sure what you mean, I have the bt touch plugged into the dedicated socket. Do I comment out the z min endstop plug and enable the z min endstop pin? I'll try that, I'm nearly frustrated enough to go back to a mechanical switch and level the bed by handby aamcle - General
Homing Wrong Direction BTT Mini E3 V2, BTT TfT32, BL Touch (Triangle Labs) X and Y home correctly and move in the right directions. Using Pronterface or the TFT the Z axis moves in the correct direction. M119 :- With power on to the printer M119 shows X and Y open, Z triggered. BL Touch :- The BL Touch passes the self test built into the TFT. Withe the "Probe up" M119 returns Z Triggered bby aamcle - General
I don't know what changed, I was able to update the Pid constants easily.by aamcle - Firmware - Marlin
Sadly I have just found a long thread on Git where person after person was having the same problemby aamcle - Firmware - Marlin
I have been setting up Marlin 2 on a BTT Mini E3V2 and not getting far. I have everything moving in the right direction and homing into the correct corner, the heaters and fans all work the PiD tunes are done. But movement distances are wrong and I can't get the bed and offsets right. This evening I re-compiled after setting the steps per unit and updated the board finishing with M500. Iby aamcle - Firmware - Marlin
I like them , did you follow/modify an existing design? I'm thinking of those on Thingiverse.com like the Hypercube Evo? Atb. Aamcleby aamcle - CoreXY Machines
I do want to print PC so an enclosure is a must. So I'll be printing the parts in ABS or Carbon Filled PetG. I have seen a spec sheet for Nonoilen (from Filamentum) which is good apparently up to about 100°C. But I have not been able to find any real user comments. ATB.by aamcle - CoreXY Machines
I have been researching filaments and found Nonoilen made by Filamentum (?) It's a blend of PLA and PLB it prints a lowish temperatures but is more thermally resistant than ABS. But I have no idea if it cracks under prolonged load..... but it would be good for fan mounts Atb. Aamcleby aamcle - CoreXY Machines
Thanks that's what I wanted to know. Aamcleby aamcle - CoreXY Machines
I'm interested in building a printer and in CoreXY motion systems. In most published builds for example the Hypercube Evo the motors and pullies are mounted in printed parts. The parts are under load from the belts and shock loads from rapid direction changes. If these parts are printed from ABS or other ridged filament do they wear out or do they need continual adjustment? Othere than ABS whaby aamcle - CoreXY Machines