You're not the only one dont worry. Mine does this some times. Sometimes it goes all jumbled and displays garbage. Other times it becomes unresponsive. I've found a firmware restore fixes it for a while. It looks virtually identical to the reprapdiscount display. Marlin has a pre-set for it in the firmware - try giving it a shot. If it still doesn't play nice, contact the site you bought it froby RickM - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bobThere are way to many small variations out there to have a single BOM. This cant be stated enough. I built my first RepRap (Prusa i3, laser frame) not knowing there would be so many tiny variations in everyones builds. I ended up having to re-source a bunch of parts, and bodge together some others. That being said, it's a lot more fun, and educational to do it all yourself. I enjoby RickM - General Mendel Topics
I'm using a 450W ATX and it does struggle due to it being on the limit of amperage needed. I don't however have a load on the 5v rail, which is recommended to reduce issues. If you can, go for a dedicated 12v supply. Personally I'd also say go for a heated bed. You'll never be able to successfully print ABS without it (PLA on the otherhand will be ok for the most part). They are easy to set upby RickM - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob A very simple solution is to tell Slic3r you want a skirt and have it feed some minimum amount of filament into the skirt. You can tell it how far away from your print to keep the skirt. It also helps to get the extruder and hot end back in synch. All that dripping plastic came from *somewhere* and the extruder didn't feed it .... Yup I tend to do this. Although I've been using Cuby RickM - General Mendel Topics
QuoteAntslake My good friend who has half a brain owns a hardware store, so the glass is no problem for me. Is there a wattage recommendation for the atx power supply? Or can I just use a 20amp benchtop power supply? Oh, and I can already see that the customer service provided by makerfarm is excellent. I wrote to him and asked to switch out the one roll of PLA for another roll of ABS, and eveby RickM - General Mendel Topics
As it is right now it's wired up so that the 11A input is wired to what would have been the ATX 4-pin 12v output (presumably the 16A rail). The 5A RAMP input is then running from the 12v supply on a molex that was on its own cable. Left over I have a single SATA power port, and another cable with 2x standard molex and 1x smaller floppy power port. I was going on the assumption that the 16A railby RickM - RAMPS Electronics
According to the specs: +12V1 is 14A +12V2 is 16A I'd have thought the 16A would be the one for the square 4-pin ATX board that I'm using would't it? I'll get some spares to pull the 5v from a spare molex to go into a Raspberry Pi - That should be ok to test it out at least to see if that's the causeby RickM - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I've recently completed my first RepRap (or at least completed to the stage where basic objects print nicely). For my power supply I used a standard ATX supply rated at 450 Watts. My RepRap is a Prusa i3 with a MK2 heatbed. The power supply I'm using has a blue LED and fan built into the bottom of it. I've noticed when the heatbed and hotend are both on at the same time, the power suppby RickM - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks guys I'll pick up some wire tomorrowby RickM - General Mendel Topics
I've got a self-made i3 (the 'laser cut frame' variant, made from wood). I love it. It's my first 3D printer, so I've not really got anything to compare it to, however prints come out pretty nice and I've not calibrated it fully yet. Using calipers to measure test cubes, they are almost bang on perfect. I did some speed tests yesterday and pushed it up to 120 mm/s and it handled it great. I dby RickM - General Mendel Topics
Hi all, Firstly apologies if this belongs elsewhere - this seemed the most appropriate location as I'm using a Prusa i3 (wooden laser frame) and RAMPS. Basically I've attached a small 12v fan to the reprap and want to use it as the RAMPS controlled fan. I know that it has to be wired into the D9 port, however the issue I've got is the cable. The fan has a very short cable followed by a tiny 2-by RickM - General Mendel Topics
This is the biggest issue with the Prusa line it seems - flimsy alignment. I'm amazed that nobody has come up with something better yet. Something like a couple of 45 degree angle beams added under the bed, along with another two shorter ones attaching to the frame would keep it level theoretically.by RickM - Reprappers
Any reason for choosing the i2 over the newer i3? The build process is relatively simple for both (there's even an online 3d build guide for the i3 now). From what I've read, the i2 has very similar parts to the i3, and on my i3 the largest part is the X-Axis attachment, looking at pictures of the i2, it looks about the same sort of size. What's the build area on your repstrap? As long as its 1by RickM - General Mendel Topics
Looks really nice Out of curiosity, any reason for deciding to go with the box frame over the LC frame on the i3, or was it just design/looks preference?by RickM - General Mendel Topics
Just wanted to update this quickly. The 12v adaptor blew up the second I powered it on. Thankfully it did no damage to the RAMPS board. At this point I was rather pissed off. So I ripped out a 350W ATX power supply from an old computer, used the square 2x 12v cable and merged it into one, and hooked it up for the hotbed supply. Then took the 12v lead from one of the molex ends and used that forby RickM - Reprappers
I'm building my i3 right now and Marlin is pretty easy to tweak. Open up the Marlin firmware files with the Arduino app and change the configuration file where needed - its all well commented. Then run verify, and upload. I had to do it for mine as I'd mounted the endstops slightly differently than default - its a 5 minute job, if that (note that prior to this I'd never touched an Arduino or RepRby RickM - General Mendel Topics
Which endstops are you using? There are a number of variations.by RickM - General Mendel Topics
I'm just coming to the end of my first i3 build (just waiting on a new hot-end, so I can print the part needed to connect my other hot end...messy!) and my main goal is going to be to get performance as best as I possibly can. IMO Its going to come down a lot to the structure as there's a lot of room for improvement. If you can get the frame a lot more stable, you should be able to push some goby RickM - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the reply Masnachu. I managed to find the culprit. It's the heatsinks on the pololu drivers. Its slightly larger than the actual chip it sticks to. I noticed it was touching the pins on one side, causing them to short. I realigned it ever so slightly and the drivers now work perfectly fine (shocked I didn't blow them up to be honest!) I'm not sure if RepRapDiscount sent me the wrong hby RickM - General Mendel Topics
Hi all, Just completing my first ever Reprap, a Prusa i3 (based on the 'Improved' version here: ) and am using a RAMPS 1.4 electronics kit from RepRapDiscount (included motors, heatbed, LCD screen, etc). However I'm having a hell of a time getting the motors working correctly. Basically the Z Axis works fine, as does the extruder motor. These work without any problems at all. However both theby RickM - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the reply waitaki. I ended up watching a bunch of videos on YouTube and decided to go down the 12v supply route. I found a supply on eBay for £21.69 delivered. I know this means I dont have the extra molex ports for future development, but from looking at the arduino megao that's in use on the RAMPS kit, I can take a 5v or 3.3v supply from it. So theoretically could build a 'ring' ofby RickM - Reprappers
Hi all, Just about to start building my first Reprap (Prusia i3) and have ordered all my parts except the PSU as I was planning to use an existing computer ATX power supply. In my build I'm going to be using RAMPS 1.4 along with a MK2A heat bed. I have a query with regards to using the ATX PSU. Firstly, I want to note that I do not want to lop off all the unused connectors - quite happy to kby RickM - Reprappers