In Sprinter, your bed size should look something like this... //----------------------------------------------------------------------- //Max Length for Prusa Mendel, check the ways of your axis and set this Values //----------------------------------------------------------------------- const int X_MAX_LENGTH = 200; const int Y_MAX_LENGTH = 200; const int Z_MAX_LENGTH = 100; In Slicr3, (if thby waitaki - Reprappers
Quotemoth4017 The hot end nozzle has to be no more than 0.15 mm off the plate. Any thoughts.... Your nozzle gap is too big at .15mm. You need 0.1 max and .05 would be optimum (the thickness of a typical Supermarket receipt. However, you need to get that bed pretty level.by waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
so bought a brand new MK2a but it made no difference. When you say "made no difference", is the new one actually heating to ~90C like the previous one or nothing at all now?by waitaki - General
How did you calibrate your exruder? Ignore the "reverse" values in pronterface - they are used for manual extrusion and the value applies to both forward and reverse. Typically 200-300 mm/sby waitaki - RAMPS Electronics
If that is PLA, then try printing 2 at the same time - small projections like that need time to cool.by waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Not all filaments are created equal- some stick well, others do not. I've tried several suppliers so I know who to avoid. A decent filament should stick fine with hairspray as long as you use a "Strong Hold" variety. I've found that the optimum nozzle gap is 0.05 mm - the thickness of a typical supermarket till receipt which is half the thickness of a piece of photocopy paper. This gives me goodby waitaki - Reprappers
Ok, cool. You can suggest other carriers if you like but NZ post would be $2.70 according to their website. Or, more if tracked or couriered.by waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I could gift them to you if you wanna cover the postage - it's such a small job. I don't have an i3 so not too familiar with them but the 2nd pic on their website seems to show some sort of bearing holder? Pity one of the i3 guys couldn't chime in and identify those bits you bought. Alanby waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Have you uploaded the firmware to the Arduino?by waitaki - Reprappers
When you say similar, you mean exactly like in the graphic (the split ones)?by waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Quotecozmicray Perfectly Flat ---- NOT unless it has been optically ground Look at it with a laser or foucault edge tester It will have hills and valleys which get bigger and smaller under heating cooling I have ground mirrors to 1/8 wavelength precision your plate glass is far from perfect Really not necessary for a 3D printer. Ordinary glass is plenty good enough.by waitaki - Reprappers
Well, you could try disconnecting the "Y" end stop plug from the ramps board then just short the S and - pins together ( don't touch the + pin for gawds sake) - this is the same as what the switch does anyway. If it works on M119 then your problem is the switch. If it still does not register, then it may be the connection between the Ramps and the Arduino - try separating them then refitting. Alby waitaki - General
Another issue is when I combine pin2 and the extruder heater, when pin2 of the bed and the exturder reach the targets, they maintain the temperature. But when I combine pin3 of the bed and the extruder, once they reach their target, the heaters turn off but never raise back to the targeted temperature I really don't understand that? Are you saying you have connected the negative of the extruderby waitaki - General Mendel Topics
Dear oh dear...by waitaki - Printing
Yes, I would have thought that Nylon was considerably more difficult to work with. And your right - the quality of the ABS is very significant.by waitaki - Printing
You said, "and hotend moved to home" ? ..and then said, "printer never moves in negative direction" Please clarify.by waitaki - Printing
"very, very high speed printing" ? Well, good luck!by waitaki - Reprappers
Nice work!by waitaki - Printing
Cannot determine from those pictures how you have wired the 12v inputs?by waitaki - Printing
This all comes down to first layer basics - you must compress the first layer into the bed whatever settings you have.by waitaki - Printing
Yeah, that's a point - I forgot you can adjust that in Marlin although not in Sprinter (as far as I know)by waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I agree, those regulators never seem to survive a short like thatby waitaki - Controllers
When the "Z home" command is issued, the axis will rise, then fall again to nozzle height (as you would know already) or, if the Z axis is away from the bed, it will fall, then rise then fall again to nozzle height. What might be happening on you machine is, when the axis lifts away from the endstop, the microswitch may not be breaking - it has to break before it can drive down again. I would putby waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
You must factor in the cost of shipping if you haven't already done so - it is part of the price whether we like it or not...by waitaki - New Zealand RepRap User Group
by waitaki - General
Have you got 3 jumpers installed under the driver chip?by waitaki - RAMPS Electronics
I think this happens if the filament gets a bit loose on the spool during printing. What's needed is a "brake" of some sort - nothing heavy but just light enough to stop it over-rotating as the extruder pulls on it. Imagine you were just gently laying a finger on the spool's drum as it was being pulled and that's what you need.by waitaki - Printing
Well, if it doesn't melt the plastic fan housing that snaps around the hotend fins, then it won't melt anything (unless the fan fails!) The fan should be hard wired to the PS,by waitaki - Reprappers