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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 12 years ago
It is odd for them to fail but not unheard of. They are rated to 50amps so it is unlikely you over loaded it. It may have over heated though. as it does not seem to have a heat sink, which is always advisable. There are many suitable alternatives, just search the forum. be sure to check all the tracks around it on the board too.by lazzymonk - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 12 years ago
Thats the mosfet.by lazzymonk - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 12 years ago
Have you checked the cables? Also is the led coming on for D8?by lazzymonk - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 12 years ago
Check the fuse (the big yellow thing). Connect you meter to ground and both sides of the fuse in turn. You should get about 12v on both.by lazzymonk - General
Re: J head MK5 MKV 0.4 mm/3 mm hotend PLA Jam - 12 years ago
It is almost impossible successfully print pla with a j-head without a fan pointing at the plastic barrel. In fact its almost impossible with most hotends. So, add a fan and try again.by lazzymonk - General
Re: Inconsistant Calibration - 12 years ago
sound like the cube you are trying to print isnt slicing correctly. I find it more accurate the measure axis movement than printed object size. That way you are ruling out slicing problems, extrusion width and all sorts of other potential problems.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Re: Power Supply Shutting Off - 12 years ago
You need to measure it accurately. It should be between 1 and 1.6 ohms. Any lower and it will likely draw far to much current shutting down the power supply. Much above that and it will not be able to achieve higher temperatures needed for things like absby lazzymonk - Reprappers
Re: fried ramps? - 12 years ago
It unlikely you have damaged the ramps as has very little on it that can break. More likely you damaged the arduino it is plugged into.by lazzymonk - General
Re: Reprap 2014? - 12 years ago
I am currently designing and building a i3 mendel90 with some of my own ideas thrown in hybrid because I couldn't find a machine that met all my requirementsby lazzymonk - General
Re: Power Supply Shutting Off - 12 years ago
What is the resistance of the bed? Dont assume that it is faulty. It might be that the power supply cant handle it.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 z axis motors - 12 years ago
You need to set it in the marlin configuration file.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 z axis motors - 12 years ago
what speed are you trying to run them at? If I run my z at more than 6-7mm/s they fail to turn at all.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Re: Y does not stop at endstop - 12 years ago
when at 0 the hotend should be at the front of the bed.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Re: Y does not stop at endstop - 12 years ago
I dont know either of those but in marlin and ramps you get a problem like that when the endstop is set to be a max endstop rather than minby lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Re: [PRUSA I3]: Direct extruder - 12 years ago
Sounds like you need increase the current using the trim pot on the driver. Do it slow and in small increments until it works reliably. Then keep an eye on it for a while to make sure nothing is getting too hot.by lazzymonk - General
Re: Choosing PLA Filament - 12 years ago
do some of the best pla available. Not the cheapest but can't fault itby lazzymonk - General
Re: K Extruders - 12 years ago
You have to print some parts in ABS as it can handle heating better than pla. Any part that a motor, hotend or heated bed is in contact with should be ABS. You can get away with other parts in pla but often easier to do it all in absby lazzymonk - General
Re: K Extruders - 12 years ago
That J-head (its not a real j-head) looks like it has an injection moulded barrel which is odd and I have never seen before. It also looks terribly made. Buy a real J-head and you will have better luck.by lazzymonk - General
Re: Bed height adjustment when homing to the top - 12 years ago
You don't need to reload firmware to adjust the z travel. It can be done using gcode M208: set axis max travel Example: M208 X250 Y210 Z180 The values specified set the software limits for axis travel in the positive direction. With Marlin firmware, this value can be saved to EEPROM using the M500 command.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
Re: Power Supply Shutting Off - 12 years ago
Is the wire that was connected to 3.3v still connected to 3.3v? It's is the wire used to detect the voltage at the plug and adjust accordingly. If it is not connected to 3.3v it will trigger the over or under voltage detection. Which will cause the problem you are having. It could also be caused by a short. Make sure that no differently colored wires are touching.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
Re: DIYtechshop Bad Experiences - 12 years ago
Have you tried contacting them again. I know from experience it is easy for small businesses to miss emails. You think I will deal with that shortly and get distracted and forget about it. Also are you sure you are emailing the correct address. Most companies have multiple addresses.by lazzymonk - General
Re: Prusa i3 Mirror Prints ? - 12 years ago
No problem. Glad I could help and it was an easy fix.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Re: Z axis calibration - 12 years ago
Sounds like you need to tell the firmware to home at the top. You should also check that your gcode is homing before it starts to printby lazzymonk - Mendel90
Re: Bed height adjustment when homing to the top - 12 years ago
Nophead explained homing to the top. Its been a while since i read his article but give it a read, it might help.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
Re: Z axis calibration - 12 years ago
Sounds like the z axis isn't homing correctly. When you tell the axis to home does it move towards the endstop?by lazzymonk - Mendel90
Re: Prusa i3 Mirror Prints ? - 12 years ago
You need to reverse the movement of an axis. Usually the y axis. It's an easy mistake to make as you think the bed is moving towards you say so y should be decreasing, but the hotend (which is the important bit) is moving to to the back of the bed so y is increasing. Not the best explanation but I hope it point you in the right direction. Just remember if you reverse an axis to check the homingby lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Re: Trying to figure this all out... - 12 years ago
Why an i2? The i3 is far better and requires a lot less parts. As for electronics, if you have no real experience I would go for a ready assembled (more or less) kit. There are plenty available on places like ebay. They have ready assembled boards. Almost all of the other electronic parts you need (end stops, heated bed, cables). You normally just need to buy motors, power supply (12v 30amp is aby lazzymonk - Reprappers
Re: Heated Bed Issue - 12 years ago
A picture would still be useful. If it was the mosfet smoking you should be able to see signs of it on the surface. I think it is more likely to have been a track on the pcb or a terminal block though.by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Hotbed - 12 years ago
Mine can do 200x200x300mm which is about 8x8x12 not that I use all that possibility often at all. A 5x10 heat bed would have a smaller surface area than a 8x8 so yeah it would be fine. But it is also close enough to 8x8. Do you really need the extra 2? Is the worth the hassle just to get it?by lazzymonk - General