I don't know if anyone will find this useful but its something I have done recently as I wanted my RAMPS to be able to turn off a 12v 30amp power supply when printing was finished. I haven't seen anything about how to do this about so I thought I would document my way. Below is a basic diagram of my solution. Its basically a solid state relay attached to the ps_on pin on the ramps but with a momby lazzymonk - General
As far as i know many people do that without a problem. I run 16v and 12v without a problemby lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
That is a good point. I forgot to mention that. I think marlin turn on the power supply as soon as it is starts up by default.by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
you could print one of the many fan ducts available that will direct air flow to the printed parts rather than the hotend. This will generally resolve the problem.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
Great, glad its sorted. and yes it is a bit misleading. You could feed any voltage to that pin without effecting anything else, which I didnt realise until you pointed it out. Could be helpfulby lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
The easyest way would be to do as you say. The following circuit works well and you just need to set which pin you want to use in pins.h no hacking requiredby lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
Is kisslicer set to use relative extruder values? I'm not an expert on it but I know there are 2 different ways to control an extruder. One is relative one is absolute vales, if your slicer is set to one and the firmware set to the other you will have problems, I know I haven't given a solution but I hope I've helped poi t you in the right direction.by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
I think you are supposed to connect the 5vsb to the vcc pin rather than the 5v pin, Not sure if that would make any difference though. Are you getting 5v on the 5vsb line? Do you have a ground connected to the main power connector? I had a similar setup toy you so it will workby lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
yeah the extruder value is the 4th on the steps per unit line in the config. calibrating the extruder is quite well documented hereby lazzymonk - Reprappers
yeah that sounds about right. you might have to tweak them very slightly once you are printing if things are not exactly the correct size. But those values will get you very close. dont forget to calibrate your extruder too.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
You can also connect the + from your hot bed directly to your power supply. That way its only the ground going through your ramps ( which is the part switched by the ramps). As the ground are connected together the load is shared between 2 connections on the power plug.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
yes, you need to change the setting in marlin the current setting is as follows X 78.7402 Y 78.7402 Z 200.0*8/3 or 533.33 Extruder 7601.1 using the calculator you would select the correct configuration, which for what you are using will give you 80 for your belts. so you would use the following in marlin 80.00, 80.00, 533.33, 7601.1 You would still need to calculate the correct values forby lazzymonk - Reprappers
You do not need to power the arduino directly if D1 is installed. It supplies power to the arduino from the ramps power connector (2 in your picture)by lazzymonk - General
sort of on the topic of 3d printed guns. has anyone seen a 3d printed bb (airsoft style) gun anywhere?by lazzymonk - General
should helpby lazzymonk - Reprappers
if you are not using a heated bed, you only need to connect power to number 2 (12v is ideal) as long as D1 is installed under the X-Y drivers. If there is no diode under there then 7-12v plugged into 1 will power the arduino fine. The hot end connects to number 3 and is powered via a mosfet from 2. The following link may explain things a bit betterby lazzymonk - General
you can use the 5th for a z axis stepper, so that each motor has its own driver. in marlin at least its a simple setting in the config to enable the feature.by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
was it working before? if so check the pin assignment in pins.hby lazzymonk - General
Thats exactly correct. As for the fuses. As far as I am aware ( im sure someone will correct me if im wrong) most car fuses are capable of 24v so voltage shouldnt be a problem. Current rating is a different matter. The way I would do it is is to work out how much current each input uses. Then work the which component is rated for the lowest current (dont forget about the cables), then find a fuby lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
if i remember correctly there are 2 different versions of the mk v. They are designed for different thermistors because the original was discontinued by the manufacture. Are you sure you have the correct one?by lazzymonk - Reprappers
1. i use works great, easy to access. 2. how are you leveling at the moment? Can you post a pic of your bed?by lazzymonk - General
I would replace the fuses with wire links and put in line blade fuse (car fuses) on cables between the ramps and psuby lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics
It would depend on how you are planning to drive them, but everything type of electronics I have seen recommend 3-5v steppers. The 12v would work but be slow.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
it depends on the psu. technically it should shut down if you draw too much current but there are a lot of supplies out there that dont do what they should. what does the sticker on your psu say about 12v?by lazzymonk - Controllers
all ground (0v) will be connected to the same point in the psu. It will be fine to use a different oneby lazzymonk - Controllers
The only problem I find with atx supplies, espeically cheaper ones is the voltage. Im currently using a not so cheap 500w atx supply. It works great, but when the heated bed is on, the voltage drops to 10.8v - 11.0v. This limits the maximum temperature the heated bed can reach to about 90.by lazzymonk - General
are you just replacing the thermistor or the wiring all the way to the board? if your using the same wiring, try replacing that. there could be a break in the cable.by lazzymonk - General
could you possibly have a short between the hotend thermistor and bed thermistor? The hotend could be triggering the bed max temp if you do.by lazzymonk - General
2 options. 1. make something like this and slow them with your controller. 2. supply them with a different voltage. If your using an atx supply connecting the + from the fan to 12v and - to 5 gives you 7 volts. Slows fans nicely but still work (most of the time). If not using an atx supply then there are many simple variable voltage circuilts available using very cheap parts.by lazzymonk - Controllers