Show all posts by user

Re: Z - Endstop - Where to mount? - 12 years ago

either way works. But try reading

by lazzymonk - Reprappers

Re: Extruder motor stalling - 12 years ago

I had a similar problem twice. once, the motor got hot and sofend the gear so the grub screw pushed out. Second time the grub screw was just loose. Could either of those be possible?

by lazzymonk - General

Re: hot end connection - 12 years ago

although I believe it is possible to run a reprap on an arduino uno, I think it will be a lot more hassel than it is worth. However if all you have left to do is power the hotend, you just need a suitable mosfet attached to a digital pin. dont forget that you also need to read something like a thermistor to control the temperature.

by lazzymonk - Controllers

Re: Turning printed parts ? - 12 years ago

I would have thought that high speeds would cause too much heat?

by lazzymonk - General

Re: Aiming Hot-End Fan - 12 years ago

which hotend are you using? normally the fan is aimed at the section above the heat block, trying to avoid the heat block its self

by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics

Re: Z - Endstop - Where to mount? - 12 years ago

thats exactly how it is used.

by lazzymonk - Reprappers

Re: Motor control - 12 years ago

i would plug the x axis driver into the y axis slot and see if that works. if it does work, the drive is faulty, if it doesnt, either the ramps, arduino or firmware are at fault. edit. have you checked the current the driver is set to? to high, or too low can cause similar issues that you are experiencing

by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Y axis high speed movement problems - 12 years ago

@sheck626 I dont use clips on my bed, i use a 200x200mm 0.5mm silcon thermal pad (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180930976479) sticks the glass down nicly when hot, but comes of easily when cold. Also helps the bed heat quicker as it transfers heat better and i get the full print area available to me. Been doing this for a few months now with the same pad, works great.

by lazzymonk - Reprappers

Re: nozzle plows through top layer - 12 years ago

I think what rooski ment was turn the extrusion temperature down a bit and add/speed up a cooling fan

by lazzymonk - General

Re: all axis inverted, suddenly - 12 years ago

did you unplug the steppers? if so maybe you plugged them in the wrong way round. even if you didnt, try flipping the connector anyway, it should solve the problem.

by lazzymonk - Controllers

Re: wiring kit - 12 years ago

Thhose kits are good but just so you know they only have connectors 1 end. Which is fine for most things but just be aware some soldering will still be required.

by lazzymonk - General

Re: RAMPS 1.4 USB connection - 12 years ago

Do you have an arduino mega? Ramps boards are extensions to an arduino mega. They are useless without it.

by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics

Using brass bushings to get power to heated bed? - 12 years ago

It may be a crazy but has anyone got any thoughts on using a brass bushing on each linear rail to get power to the heated bed? So run + in one rail and - in the other, brass bushing with wire attached to bed? That way only a thermistor cable is needed, and if the cable fails print stops, but with the power cables if they get damaged things catch fire. Is it an idea worth trying or am I nuts?

by lazzymonk - General

Re: ESD shutting down printer - 12 years ago

I havnt had mine freeze but I scramble my lcd on a regular basis just by touching my machine

by lazzymonk - General

Re: First time RepRap build electronics help - 12 years ago

I think the reprapdiscount kits are great. They contain almost everything you need. you will only need a power supply and some extra cable for the hot bed, hot end and to attach the power supply to the ramps. and a USB cable I looked around a lot when I built mine and was unable to find anything close price wise, even buying the elements seperatly.

by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Ramps 1.4 / smart controller / repetier host - 12 years ago

I cant help solve this, but i have a Ramps 1.4 and reprapdiscount smart lcd controller using marlin firmware and I am able to control over usb with the screen plugged in. So maybe try marlin. If it still doesnt work it might be a hardware fault. Sorry I cant help more.

by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Really weird problem - 12 years ago

have you checked the gcode to make sure it is slicing correctly?

by lazzymonk - General

Re: Rumba at 24 V motor skipping - 12 years ago

sounds to me (Im often wrong) like the driver is over heating and shutting down for a moment. As you say you cant reduce the current without it missing steps you are likely just trying to print faster than you are able to. Solution, reduce current and speed. EDIT: just one last thing. Do you have heat sinks on your drivers? and a fan blowing on them too? If not that will increase the ammount of

by lazzymonk - RAMPS Electronics

Looks like an interesting option for electronics - 12 years ago

I know there are a lot of these sort of things about but I thought I would point out this one. An arduino due with a linux computer built in. Could make an interesting all in one electronics solution.

by lazzymonk - General

Re: New build - commissioning this evening. - 12 years ago

Good luck!

by lazzymonk - Reprappers

Re: Working on a filament recycler - 12 years ago

in the firmware there should be an option the change the bed max temp

by lazzymonk - General

Re: Bed not heating! - 12 years ago

is the gate pin (the left one when looking at the board with the outputs on top) on the mosfet at 5v when you turn the bed on? if not its likely a firmware issue. Saying that, if it is the same on 2 different boards then it is likely a fireware issue anyway.

by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics

Re: Forum going down frequently? - 12 years ago

Its not just you. Ive been having the same problem the last few days. Rather frustrating but then we dont pay to use theses forums so cant really complain, but it would be nice if they worked reliably.

by lazzymonk - General

Re: J-head pops out when pritning PLA - 12 years ago

do you have a fan blowing acros the top of your j-head? If not, try that. PLA can soften too early and cause a lot of resistance inside. From the j-head wiki page When using a hot-end, with a vented PEEK nozzle holder (i.e. Mk IV-, it is critical that the milled vents are not obstructed in any way. These vents are used to cool the hot-end by both removing as much PEEK as possible, to prevent th

by lazzymonk - General

Re: i2 Print Plate - 12 years ago

my gap is about 12mm.

by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics

Re: i2 Print Plate - 12 years ago

Your plan should work fine. You dont need anything between them, air is a very good insulator. I do more or less the same thing. Only difference is I use a 3mm aluminium plate instead of ply wood (its lighter) and i think it looks nicer.

by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics

Re: Cooling Fan - 12 years ago

put a capacitor between the power cables to the fan i use a 200uf electrolytic. Works great.

by lazzymonk - Reprappers

Re: Hot End PTFE size - 12 years ago

done use ptfe. use peek. ptfe deforms when hot.

by lazzymonk - Reprappers

Re: Turning off bed and Extruder at end of print - 12 years ago

you would do it with gcode. something like the following as your final code. M104 S0 ; turn off temperature M140 S0 ; turn off bed M84 ; disable motors if you use an atx supply you could also add M81 to turn of the power supply.

by lazzymonk - General

Re: Temperature drop from 208 to 195 - 12 years ago

dont give up. can you take some photos of your hotend? might help. also, which type of filament are you using? if pla, do you have a fan blowing on the hotend body?

by lazzymonk - Controllers