I bought a geeetech extruder and I am trying to figure out how to wire the stepper motor to a ramps board. The motor is 42shd0217-24b. Can't seem to figure it out. I am using this ramps,by Antslake - RAMPS Electronics
I should have mentioned that I am using Cura. I've tried all the others but Cura gives me the best results. I wish I knew how to make a script to accomplish what you guys are talking about.by Antslake - General
I have a makerfarm i3 with ramps and marlin. It seems to me that a lot of problems could be solved if when an extraction happens there was no pause. That millsecond when the x/y movement stops and extraction happens, a little filament can ooze out. Is there a way to get rid of this? Printing with filaments that require greater pressure to push through the hotend are more affected by this, like nyby Antslake - General
I figured it would over draw, just wasn't sure if the ramps was current limiting. I am using a pyramid 20amp power supply. I can dedicate it for just the heat bed and use a 12amp for the rest. Any good places to get a SSR relay? I see a lot of difference in pricing. Thanks for the help.by Antslake - RAMPS Electronics
I just purchased a silicone heat pad for my makerfarm i3 with Ramps 1.4. The pad is 12V 200watts. If I plug this into the ramps will it blow? Or will it just draw as much as the Ramps puts out, which is probably less than 200 watts.by Antslake - RAMPS Electronics
This was awhile ago. I have since built a 16ga steel enclosure for my printer. It doesn't take much amperage to set a driver on fire. So fuses or not, would have never prevented this. I use a pyramid 20amp PS.by Antslake - Safety & Best Practices
The z-hop worked! That massive over hang that is the frogs belly and throat area would curl up a bit, then when the hotend came back over it would get stuck, I am assuming. I like to run my hotend hot for superior bonding, but on overhangs it causes them to curl up a bit.by Antslake - General
Actually just found z-hop function, going to try that.by Antslake - General
Prusa i3, printing ABS. Printing out a tree frog that is 107grams of material. It is well within the limits of my machine. So the first time I printed it, it got to about 5mm high, then the whole machine skipped over 13mm to the left. I rechecked everything and re-sliced it and it printed. Then I tried to print again another one, and it did the same thing, this time a little less than 5mm in heigby Antslake - General
Thanks for that Dale, I will check it out! BTW, I recieved the first successful print of one of the shrouds that go along side the gas tank. Came out so nice going to get the other one, and someone else ordered a pair! 3D printed short track shroud for the ATC250R: Here's what it looks like on the trike: World premiere test fit 3D printed shroud: I have high hopes for the tank, but prices needby Antslake - 3D Design tools
1. Where did you get that head? 2. What are you using for a bed?by Antslake - Plastic Extruder Working Group
That's weird because I find the warping with nylon at keast 10 times worse, and that number increases esponentially the larger part you try to create. Which nylon are you using? BTW I find t-glase the best all around filament to print with. I mostly make functional parts.by Antslake - Printing
I usually take my prints up in temp until they start to look funny from being too hot, then back off 10C. That's where I have found best lamination. But what I am finding now is the quality of the ABS really matters. Some of the cheaper stuff no matter how I print, it just likes to delaminate, or be brittle.by Antslake - Printing
330C-380C with a heated build chamber of 190Cby Antslake - General
I got someone to do it, but didn't learn myself. Dale Dunn seems to be exactly right. I am having trouble learning how to do all that. Trying to learn from youtube is frustrating most times. People make tutorials with no sound or instruction and move so fast you have no idea what they are doing. They assume you are at their level. If I was at their level, I wouldn't need to watch the tutorial. Iby Antslake - 3D Design tools
More excellent advice, thank you. I have thought about all those things. I plan on making the machine very robust out of 6061 aluminum plate and high temp glass for windows. I will be using ball screws with high temp silicone grease, and placing the drive mechinisms outside the build chamber (stratsys patent *cough). I can't use a fuel bag because there needs to be a drain on the bottom. NWmanufby Antslake - 3D Design tools
Thanks for the advice. The warping would be hard to calculate in my circumstance as I am making functional parts like quadcopters. The relationship between arm and motor mount needs to come out at 90degrees. I know the commercial machines can print without warping. Wish I knew what kind of bed they are using. I saw some silicone heat beds on amazon that work from 12V. The 300mmx300mm uses 20 ampby Antslake - General
I've used garolite (tufinol) and that gave me my one almost good print. I tried glass with kapton, hair spray, ABS glue. I also made a blend of ABS glue, acetone, and hair spray on glass, and that almost worked too. I just think if the bed is hot enough it won't warp. I have plans to build a printer with HBC. But still want to try this. According to the reprap wiki on PC Pilot had success with suby Antslake - General
So printing with polycarbonate is my next hurdle. Thought nylon warping was bad? I've tried a bunch of different methods with little to no success. Parts always warp. One last method to try and that is superglue on glass heated to 120-130C. But the glass can't handle that, or the bed. I've been searching a little, but it always helps to ask. Is there any commercially available high temp beds? Hiby Antslake - General
I appreciate the concerns of safety, don't get me wrong, but isn't the spirit of reprap about pushing boundaries? Of course if I were to do it myself I would approach this with the utmost caution. I have been researching this for about 2 years now. That's why I need to build my own machine to do it because a reprap won't. If not, then the technology to do it will become cost effective soon enoughby Antslake - 3D Design tools
QuoteRegB Personally I find it quite disturbing that (given the current maturity of the state of this art) you are using a 3D printer to make a fuel cell. My own prints are fair to reasonable, but the thought of a delaminated wall in any part of a fuel cell scares the heck out of me. For this application you NEED PERFECTION and I think we're "not there yet" Do KNOW that a spoonful or so of almosby Antslake - 3D Design tools
The person who did the original scan came through and shelled it for me no charge. He didn't have to do that either. Only thing is I do not know how he did it, so if I should need to change the thickness of the shell, I would be lost. I don't think he had to remove the tabs to shell it. He also combined the location of the holes in the tank that I needed. So hopefully now I can make a complete reby Antslake - 3D Design tools
The model was a laser scan done with a $90k laser scanner by Konica Minolta. I paid for the scans, not for working models I guess. They are no longer doing it either so I really can't go back to them. It was $1200 to have the tank and 2 shrouds scanned. The shrouds are fine because they are solid. I don't know what program they used to scan these. Even if they shelled it for me, I would have toby Antslake - 3D Design tools
They gave it to me in 2 formats, .IGS, and .X_B I am assuming it is a solid as I can export to .stl put it in Cura and print it setting the infill to 0 and just picking my shell thickness. I've printed up to 40% models of this. The ultimate goal here is to print a full scale version in shapeways for actual use as a fuel cell. There is a company out west that is using the same process to make fuby Antslake - 3D Design tools
I am using solidworks 2010. I have a scan of a gas tank that I paid a lot of money for. However, the scan is completely solid, and I need to shell it. I've searched for like 12+ hours now, and tried a bunch of different methods including offset surface, thicken, and so on. I really could use some help here. I am afraid to upload any file as I did pay a lot of money for this, and I don't want to gby Antslake - 3D Design tools
Straum3d sells 12-64 nylon that prints very well, and does not absorb moisture.by Antslake - General
Thanks, I guess I should look into upgrading to those boards. Quotevreihen QuoteAntslake I am already plugged into the ramps board. But taking 30mins to upload a file is silly too. With all this technology you think a better way would have been incorporated. As I wrote above: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,364287,364763#msg-364763 "It does bear mentioning that Smoothieboard and the Azteeby Antslake - General
I have a reader. I just think it's silly to keep taking the sd in and out. I feel like it is going to break. I am already plugged into the ramps board. But taking 30mins to upload a file is silly too. With all this technology you think a better way would have been incorporated.by Antslake - General
Ok that worked. Is there a way to upload the gcode into the file system I have on the SC card? Or does it only upload into the root? I print with different materials and have my gcode folders separated by material and nozzle size. I also fixed the SD slot, seems a piece of the SC card broke off in it, woot. Still want to upload though instead of taking card out all the time.by Antslake - General