Quoteuncle_bob An easier way to do this: 1) Just make a cube the right outer size. Nothing fancy, just a cube. 2) Tell Silc3r to do zero top layers - now it's an open cube 3) Tell Slic3r you want zero fill - now it's a box 4) Tell Siic3r you want 10 perimeter layers. With a .4 mm head you now have a very solid 4 mm wall. Takes very little time that way. You can even print it up as a Spiral Vaseby vetteguy112233 - Slic3r
Quotetmorris9 I tried fixing your file but it was very messed up. Not sure how or what happened but I just whipped up the same object for you that works (took 10 minutes). What program did you use? Did you go about it the same way that I just described?by vetteguy112233 - Slic3r
I appreciate that, but I would like to know why mine didn't work. I started with a square that I used the push/pull tool to bring it to a cube. I then used the ruler to make marks 4mm in on all sides, connected the dots, deleted the middle piece and then made the insides complete.by vetteguy112233 - Slic3r
Its on a desk that sits in the corner and never moves, the desk sits on carpet that has concrete underneath it. I know the printer isn't moving, it's got to be something loose somewhere. How did your bed warp and how did you figure it out?by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I just imported my file into Sketchup again and I noticed that the lines I used to make my cube were changed. I guess it did this when it exported it as an STL file. Originally I had nice even concentric lines that I used to make the cube and for some reason now they are randomly placed, even though it still looks like a cube, the lines are in different places. I also tried adding more lines to mby vetteguy112233 - Slic3r
I'm still learning the whole 3d development side of things and wow is it hard. Yesterday I made an open cube in Sketchup and for whatever reason Slic3r wouldn't slice it. My son wanted me to make a marble trapped in a box, so I measured the marble and using Sketchup I made a box that was the correct size. The sides were 4mm and overall length/width/height was 22mm. It took me about an hour to makby vetteguy112233 - Slic3r
Makerfarm I3, 8" Ramps 1.4, ABS 3mm, 0.50mm head....... I've been fighting keeping my printer calibrated, it changes every single day, sometimes from one print to the next. There was one time when I noticed the nut that gets trapped up inside the right side carrier of the Z axis, was working it's way down the threaded rod. I was able to get it back into place, but while doing that I noticed thatby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
It was worth a shot, I found it on the back side of the LCD and adjusted it many times back and forth to see if that would stop the flickering, but that didn't change anything other than the contrast of the screen.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Uncle bob, where is the contrast adjustment? is it the little hole under the control knob for the LCD or is it on the RAMPS board?by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Is this thread dead? I thought there would have been a lot more interest in this project, hmmm?by vetteguy112233 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Which one is D1, I'll check to see if I have voltage there as well.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I'm just excited that my power bill isn't going through the roof because of this thing. Now running the 100w bulb next to it to keep it from warping is a different story, but I'm not counting that.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Karmavore, thanks for the info. The only reason it bothers me is because I'm worried either I've hooked something up incorrectly or my power supply isn't doing it's job. This is my second power supply with the same results. My previous power supply didn't have the extra 4 pin connector, so I used a regular connector. This newer power supply did have the extra 4 pin power connector, so I used theby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
A while back a purchased a meter that plugs in series with whatever device you want to monitor the power consumption of. I finally had a chance to install it on my printer, allow it to warm up and print something. I was absolutely sure that the hot end and bed were going to use a lot of electricity, but I was wrong. I usually let my bed warm up to about 100c and then turn on my hot end and usualby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I also just noticed that the motor underneath/at the back of my print bed is making a weird high pitched noise that perfectly matches the flicker of the LCD screen during warm up. I noticed this when I first turned on the printer, at some point it releases control of the motors and you can move them manually, but while it still had control of the motors it was making that noise.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I have noticed that when I turn on my hotend that tends to stop the flickering, but I've also noticed that it returns at random times. Lately I've noticed it flickering even more during actual printing. My LCD screen isn't messed up at all, I can always read everything.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Makerfarm I3, 8" Ramps 1.4...... My LCD screen is flickering and it's driving me crazy. I've tried 2 different power supplies, the second one had the 2, 4pin connectors and is rated to 20A on the 12v rail. My first one only had 1, 4pin connector, so I had to use one of the other power wires, but either way the LCD flickers with both power supplies. I've contacted Colin and he said he doesn't knby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I guess I'll just wait for Colin's upgrade.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Does the speed matter? I'm a mechanic for a living and can get my hands on lots of different motors, but every "slow" speed is different.by vetteguy112233 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I've also noticed that the quality of the prints have changed. A few weeks ago I printed a Mayan temple and now my other son needs one for a school project so I'm printing another one. It's currently printing and I have over an hour left, but I've noticed that it's not the same quality as my first one. There are 2 "feet" at the base/entrance of the temple that were pretty much perfect on the firsby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bob Ok, next hints - sorry this is getting a bit like water torture: I have a pair of #6 nuts on my Z axis bolt. I don't depend on the plywood to hold the bolt in place. I did the same thing (only one nut would fit) on the X axis bolt. I also have found that the extruder heated up the plywood next to it that the nuts and bolts there were really loose. I noticed that when I saw the cby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I just went to print the cube again and noticed that my plastic wasn't sticking to the glass. I checked the Z head and it had moved AGAIN!!! I set it back to the correct height AGAIN and we'll see how long it lasts before it moves itself again. GRRRRRRR!!!! The desk that my printer is on, is a very solid desk in the corner of the room on a carpeted concrete floor, so it's not like the desk is moby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I did find one nut that was a little loose, I don't think that would have caused it, but good info and it helped me to find something that could have been a larger problem later. THANKS Uncle Bob! Justintime - This is why I try to follow up with my threads, if it helps anyone else in any other way then it's all worth it. I had my z set to slightly pinch the paper when it was told to home. Then wby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Ok, here's where I'm at. I've emailed Colin and sent him pictures of my prints. As you guys suggested we figured out that it was starting way to high (which is weird because nothing changed). I'm convinced that something is moving in my Z axis and not holding calibration, because I checked multiple times while you guys were helping and it was always pinching a piece of paper when I would home Z.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
On my last print it's not the first layer that was my problem. It printed the brim and first layer just fine, its the 13th layer or so that it starts smearing everything around. You can see the 8th layer starts to get a little off, then worse on the 9th and by the 13th ish layer it's just an unrecognizable mesh of plastic.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
NOPE, this is getting so frustrating! My printer is worthless at this point, it gets about 1/4" up off the bed and just starts smearing everything all over the place. Any other suggestions?by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I tried turning the heat bed up to 120c, but that didn't help. So I've added a 5mm brim and also kept the bed at 120c, it's currently printing and I'll post the results.by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
This is great info, thanks!by vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
Nope, still having issues. I'm trying to print a small gear for the "gear heart" project and I can see as the gear starts to flare out, about 1/4" up, it's smearing each gear edge around. It appears that the very tips of the gear are curling up, causing the hot end to make contact with them, thus smearing the plastic. As it prints a new layer I can see it squishing each layer underneath. I'm so cby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics
I just turned z axis screw out about 1/8 turn to allow it to get a little closer. I put a piece of paper underneath the print head (which is clean and doesn't have old dried up plastic on it, that is throwing off my calibration) and told the Z to home. I checked 5 different points and the paper can still be pulled out, but it's tight. I'm currently waiting for the bed to warm up and I'll try it aby vetteguy112233 - General Mendel Topics