You could make one like this: I've made two, and they work very well. Also check out for ideas.by Nudel - General
What slicing software do you use? What is HEATER_0_MAXTEMP set to in marlin config? What temperature are you printing at? Are you printing with ABS or PLA? MAXTEMP is a simple safety cutoff in case you accidentally set your temperature higher than your hotend can survive. If the thermistor shorts, you will get a temperature reading of 0, which is below the safety cutoff HEATER_0_MINTEMP of 5.by Nudel - General
I don't think I've seen a 3D model of sanguinololu. May I ask what you need it for? There's plenty of mounting trays on thingiverse, so you should be able to get mounting holes from them, or from the wiki schematics.by Nudel - General
The most important part is the slicer (I prefer slic3r myself), and the host software you can use whatever flavour you prefer. I really like pronterface myself, as it's always works perfectly with the most common firmwares and is regularly updated. Plus, it's simple, fast and stable. I understand you can get repg to work with some config hacking, and many people seem to like repetier host. Justby Nudel - General
I believe I've seen something with the same idea. The problem is the software is updated and changed so rapidly, it really doesn't lend itself well to be on a read only medium. What about using a usb stick instead of a boot CD?by Nudel - General
Try printing the part twice the size. If it displaces twice the amount on each layer, the error accumulates as it's printing the layer. Bigger layer = more errors. Then it's likely a noise issue. You could also try out the default sprinter firmware to weed out that issue. If the walking errors are the same and each of the layers come out fine, the issue appears as you move from one layer to theby Nudel - General
Can I just say, that is a beautiful looking printer! Here's a few troubleshooting tips: Try switching your x and y axis stepper controllers to narrow down the problem. If you still get the error on X, it's mechanical, if it moves to y it's electrical or software. Make sure you have marling set to not check endstops while you're printing, as noise can make false triggers. Move the print to a dby Nudel - General
I'm happy with situated in sweden. You can also find good deals on ebay.by Nudel - General
For my arcol v3 and mp v6, I cut the ptfe tube 1-2mm too long and make sure there's a good support for it on both ends. This way it's compressed slightly and forms a good seal. It seems to require a bit more force to extrude, but I've yet had them fail catastrophically after I did this 6-12 months ago. I also use a fan to cool down the top of the hot end, and had to beef up the thickness of theby Nudel - General
You can set a separate speed for bridging in both slic3r and skeinforge, but it's mostly a trial and error setting and depends on a lot of variables. I use 40 mm/s with PLA at the moment, but I find it so much easier to do bridges and difficult parts when using a fan. Also for point 2), the filament does stick ever so slightly to the side of a previous line. It's not enough to rely on bridges tby Nudel - General
The reason why PLA melts/deforms in dishwashers is due to the hot water.by Nudel - General
Please use the for sale category of the forum for this.by Nudel - General
@banthafodder7400: I did watch the video, and as you noticed there was a RepRap-derivative non-replicable printer highly feature printing childrens toys, how is that a basic necessity? Your logic doesn't make sense, as one would think being as cheap as possible would be a main goal when we're talking about 3rd world countries. Everything you can do with any commercial home 3D printer, you can dby Nudel - General
Isn't this one of the main ideas behind RepRap? Self replicating printers tailored to the hardware that can be sourced locally is the way to go, not selling premade printers to the relatively wealthy members of the developing world.by Nudel - General
miso Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > No, I'm sorry to say, PLA will not stick at all > That's strange, mine sticks good enought for small parts. Then you must be better at calibrating than me. If my heated bed drops below 40C everything snaps off if the head catch on the part ever so little. If I start the print with too low bed temperature, the beginby Nudel - General
No, I'm sorry to say, PLA will not stick at all to cold glass. Try heating the end of a piece of filament with a lighter and press it onto the glass, and you'll see. You're better off using blue tape until you build a heated bed.by Nudel - General
peterrash Wrote: > Has anyone had issues trying to get PLA to stick > to the glass? My Prusa worked great for several > months, the prints stuck like glue to the glass at > 60 deg. Now, I can't get anything to stick at all. I've had the same issue. With a new glass plate PLA stick extremely well at 40C, but with use it slowly gets worse and I have to increase the temperature. Then afby Nudel - General
And to add material/more shells to only the hole, you can make a ring of tiny holes round it. Similar to this:by Nudel - General
I have one PLA Prusa v2 LM8UU plastic set for sale +upgrades +extras. Pictures, pricing and more information are on the norwegian reprap.no forum: http://www.reprap.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=93 Due to high international shipping cost, I prefer to sell locally. But if you are interested send me a PM or mail me at [email protected] and I'll calculate the shipping.by Nudel - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Michail Wrote: > As I am obviously new to editing wikis - how does > the authoring process work - do I just edit with > impunity or are changes sent to someone for > approval before being published? Changes are instant, no editor or approval first. Take a look at some wikipedia introduction videos, they explain it well. Here's one: > Seriously, the ostensible anarchy scares me. Iby Nudel - General
How are the guy you know going to print the parts? If it is with a professional powder printer (which I would assume since you're in the architect business?), make sure you check the size tolerances on holes, especially the m8 nut traps on the x ends. Holes are often a bit oversized on the stl files we use since they shrink when printed. The PLA bushings will also have to be in PLA to work, of cby Nudel - General
Where did you buy it from? I have tried 3mm PLA from several different suppliers, and they are very different. The last rolls I bought from supply3dpla.com behaved exactly the same across three colours, but I know these colours were from the same batch at the factory. Other PLA from the same shop behaves different and extrudes at other temperatures. As I understand it the colour is done by mixinby Nudel - General
Make sure you have the latest version of OpenSCAD. Sometimes it will work if you compile+render (F6) when it crashes at compile/preview (F5).by Nudel - General
> KeithSloan Wrote: > > PastaRocket848 Wrote: > > is there a tool that exports DXF that is fully open > > source? is the format itself licensed properly > > for that sort of use? > > > FreeCAD and LibreCAD Don't forget OpenSCAD. The 2D subsystem is powerful and can be used in a lot of ways. I like to use it to save parsing time on complex shapes.by Nudel - General
For this ~4 hour timelapse I took a picture every two seconds, and ran it at 24fps, but I did increase the speed a lot more when editing the video. (Take note of the clock in the lower left corner). If you can choose, it's better to capture more frames or even 1:1 video, and then speed up the footage, than capture too few frames and get choppy movement.by Nudel - General
Slic3r already do one layer infill in the direction of the bridge, it even does different direction on the same layer if needed. module c(){ difference(){ cube(20,center=true); scale ([3,1,1]) cube(10,center=true); } } for(i=[0:9]) rotate([0,0,i*36]) translate([60,0,0]) c(); The main problem why the print didn't come out good - apart from bridge printing being difficult in the first plaby Nudel - Slic3r
@morrist There are a few wobble arresters on thingiverse, though I have not tried any of them myself. Here's one of them:by Nudel - General
@tsb4k This looks like mechanical wobble. Try turning the acceleration and speed down, tighten the frame and perhaps add some crossbraces.by Nudel - General
A variable voltage PSU will do the trick, give it higher voltage to heat up and then lower it to maintain temperature (this is how Camiel did it). I also ran my first nichrome bed like that, though the laptop brick I used could only heat the bed to 45C, which was barely enough for PLA on a clean glass plate. Remember you might want a use fan to better print overhangs, and that will also cool theby Nudel - General
For modelling programs you'd also want openscad to tweak prusa parts, and netfabb basic to repair broken stl files. I also recommend wings3d as a great mesh modeller and tool for cleaning up where netfabb fails.by Nudel - General