When I use the calculated values I can't reliably print out things like Raspberry Pi cases or RAMPS board holders. The pegs simply don't line up due to the scaling issues.by jaeg - General Mendel Topics
Hmm... makes me wonder if it would be possible to use an olive oil soaked toothpick. I've used olive oil to polish stainless steel before.by jaeg - For Sale
When measuring the movement directly it still has the same issue. Also I'm not reslicing the cube after every firmware flash. Edit: Is it possible that 20 is too high for my XY Jerk setting?by jaeg - General Mendel Topics
This is a little insane. So now that I have everything up and running again I'm still having issues calibrating the machine. The issue only presents itself on the X axis. Here is a run down of what happens: I print a 20mm test cube. On the x-axis it'll be 20.49mm. So (20/20.49) * 80 = 78.0868716447. I print another 20mm test cube. On the x-axis it'll be 19.44. (20/19.44) * 78.086871644by jaeg - General Mendel Topics
It'll be in a couple of days but I'm pretty sure I'm going to get one to try it out.by jaeg - For Sale
That's understandable that's why I was curious if there was anything we could do to improve them ourselves. I typically print at 190 and 195 does that sound OK?by jaeg - For Sale
This design looks very interesting. I'd like to give it a try but since I only print in PLA the issue with the barrel makes me hesitant. If I order one is there anything I can at home that could help me smooth out the barrel myself?by jaeg - For Sale
Yep that's the plan. I'm wanting to get a whole new hotend altogether since this one is a cheap knockoff that I fell for buying before knowing better. I'm just hoping to do some printing till then.by jaeg - Printing
When I measure it with my meter set to 200k (Every setting it has is in 2's) and I got infinite resistance. At 2000k I got 388 Edit: Changed the thermistor setting in Marlin as a 200k sensor which gave me 14c as a room temperature. I borrowed my gecko's thermostat which told me my room was 20-21c so that's much closer!by jaeg - Printing
When I print multiple objects or objects that cause the tip to travel I have this extreme stringing between parts. There are also these deposits that'll build up on the sides where the hotend returns to that object. My settings: Material: PLA Print Temp: 185c First Layer Temp: 195c Retraction: 1mm (was higher but it jam on prints with a lot of retractions or creates bubbles on the surface) Rby jaeg - Printing
I must be bumping it a lot in between tests during my calibration process when changes that are meant to make it move a little more are causing it to move less. lol I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if I've built my X-axis wrong causing it to be inconsistent between measurements. Given there is always the possibility that my calipers are wrong and negating my attempts.by jaeg - General Mendel Topics
I ended up ordering a new RAMPS board and stepper drivers with my Arduino just in case they do turn out to be bad. What is the best way to test the old RAMPS board and stepper drivers and minimizing risk to the new Arduino board?by jaeg - RAMPS Electronics
I shorted it trying to measure the wiper voltage while trying to calibrate the stepper motors. My twitched with my probe touching a ground pin and it bridged the driver right next to it's +12 input. Let out a nice arc and the Arduino smoked. EDIT Did some tests on the Arduino board. It seems the regulator is what fried. Does that meant the RAMPS board is probably OK?by jaeg - RAMPS Electronics
Yah the Arduino board is shot. The RX and TX lights both stayed on and the Arduino IDE did not recognize it. Is there a test to see if the RAMPS board/Stepper driver is damaged as well?by jaeg - RAMPS Electronics
So I just shorted out the GND of one stepper driver against the +12 of another stepper driver. It arced and the Arduino smoked leaving the TX and RX lights stuck on. So I know I'll have to get another Arduino but is there a way to test if I need to replace the RAMPS board or the stepper drivers?by jaeg - RAMPS Electronics
I initially used the calculator to get 80 as well. Then afterwards measured the movement to get here. With the current settings I posted I stepped the X axis 70mm to get 69.49mm of actual movement. My Y axis was moved 100mm and gave me 99.89 which I'm happy enough with. I used the same procedure for both the X and Y and don't understand why the X is still so off.by jaeg - General Mendel Topics
Hi, I've been spending the last couple of days trying to calibrate my Prusa Mendel i2. However the numbers I end up with after calibration seem weird. I'll be adjusting the numbers to make each unit larger however when I go to measure the X-axis movement it'll have gotten smaller or too large. It's never the same which way it'll go and I'm starting to wonder if it's a mechanical issue. I'veby jaeg - General Mendel Topics
I'm running my printer right now with no screws on the Z axis steppers. Seems to have helped my rippling more than the printed couplers did. I'm doing a lot of test prints today to try and get some issues to sort out so we'll see if it's going to be consistent. I'm having issues with my extruder flow rate I think. Some times I get these little blobs on the side of the print or strange builby jaeg - Printing
I've been using hairspray to help keep my prints sticking to the bed. It's been working wonderfully. Also check the temperature of your heated bed. It's possible that you have it set too high.by jaeg - Printing
What's the stl you are trying to print?by jaeg - Printing
I've noticed that the belt tightening has actually made the ripple worse. My circle test was too short for it to be noticeable but on taller prints it is definitely there. I've been working on other issues and haven't gotten to printing the new couplers and remove the bearing on bottom. I may have to modify your coupler carriage to be a bit longer though since my rods are a tad short and theby jaeg - Printing
They are 8mm. I'm pretty sure the original ones where just badly printed with how the crumbled. I got all of the printed parts and rods together from a seller on eBay. The printer is basically a clone a Makerfarm printer. It's been an interesting build since most of the documentation he provided was out of date in relation to the printed parts he was supplying (like the template for the MDFby jaeg - Printing
Originally (these were used on the trilobite print) I had these couplers: but they crumbled under the pressure I had to put them under to keep the z axis from slipping. Now I'm using some rubber tubing with hose clamps and haven't had any slipping. The z wobble is still slightly there but not nearly as prevalent. It's possible it might of been due to backlash though since I discovered I didn'by jaeg - Printing
Interesting, doesn't that create a lot of stress on the coupler? Oh and I forgot to mention my speeds. I've changed them since I posted this but I don't think there was anything over 60mm/s and I'm pretty sure I had perimeters set to 50mm/sby jaeg - Printing
Are you talking about the the bearings that the Z screw goes into at the bottom of the printer?by jaeg - Printing
Hi! I've recently built a Prusa Mendel i2 and over the last few days have gotten it to print rather reliably. Now I'm trying to improve my print quality and was wondering if anyone would mind giving some suggestions. My setup uses PLA, no heated bed, .4mm nozzel, and 1.75mm filament. I've attached images of my latest print that I made that has a .2mm layer height, .25mm first layer height, 1by jaeg - Printing