what leads are you using from the motors - which 4 of the 6? Have you adjusted your stepper drivers?by SteveRoy - Printing
Quoteparksie - X+ moves the X Axis to the right (Looking at the printer form the front - Towards the X Axis Stepper) - Y- Brings the plate towards me and towards my end stop - Z+ Moves the Z Axis Up. // ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 I have been trying various different combinations anby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
QuoteTornado99 The power source for the ramps connetcor is both with 12V ? Yes, both are 12V - the removable green plugs. Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Quotepspuria81 would a US hardware store carry metric threaded rods ? try Fastenal Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
When my buddy and I decided to build a 3D printer (Prusa i3) we didn't buy a kit as we wanted to be able to make sure we had quality components where it mattered - like the plastic parts, heat bed, j-head, motors, smooth rods etc Our cost was around CDN $650.00 (US $580). It did take a while to source parts from all over though. Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
QuoteWaltermixx also, check out my 12 hour and 46 minute print with white ABS on my prusa i3 Nice! You must have everything dialed in perfectly. Cheers Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
It sounds like it's working as it's supposed to. When you first turn on the printer it doesn't know where the axis are. If you start pronterface, connect to the printer, heat the bed/hot-end, prime the hot-end, home the printer - will it then print? Steveby SteveRoy - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteJohnny01 Quoteron22 Received my kit now to start Two dumb questions. Is there a master parts list or just the list on ebay? (Want to make sure I have all the parts) What is the best instruction on how to assemble it. I couldn't find a list of parts, other than what's listed on ebay. As for the instructions: Prusa i3 3D Printer Glad to see my Instructable is proving useful for i3 builds.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBayAreaRepRap Endstop issue. Background: Green wire is facing outward on ramps. Physical locations: X=left stop, Y=back stop, Z=bottom stop. Stock Folger tech firmware/configuration.h besides whats shown below. I can manually go one direction via pronterface but cannot go the other direction. This is with: const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of theby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteomphe To complete this thread, in the end I elected to replace the 11A polyfuse with a 14A polyfuse. This now not only has the heat bed functioning perfectly, but it also runs at a cool temperature. I can only presume that my heat bed was drawing just over the 11A and overheating the fuse. Thanks Cefiar for the input and assistance with this issue. Did you replace the MOSFT? What typby SteveRoy - RAMPS Electronics
Are you getting 12V to the RAMPS board? Have you checked that the motor wires are correct on the 4-pin connectors? Steveby SteveRoy - Printing
See if this helps: Your X endstop is on the right so it is a MAX endstop, change Marlin to reflect this and also the jumper position on your RAMPS board (see the images in the above link) // ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 #define X_HOME_DIR 1 is what you need In Marlin your endstop swby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Quoteerikn I have been doing some research on how to check voltage on the drivers and from what I have been seeing it seems like you probe between the trimpot and the ground pin on the driver, and also that there is a Vref test point. Yet when I try this nothing is read on my multimeter. Once I figure it out how do I set it? Do I adjust the trimpot to get the right resistance across all of them?by SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Quoterich1812 @jbernardis I am sorry the pic wasn't clear. It was a plug that has 4 pin, two yellow and two black. each (Yellow/Black) pairs has 12V output, so I did precisely what you said, one 12V pair goes to one RAMP 12V in and the other goes to the second RAMP 12V in. But somehow with the Arduino Mega attached, smoke came out and I smell something burning. I hope I didn't fry anything. I amby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
What was wrong with the Folger Tech one? Way easier to hookup vs an old ATX powersupply and a lot neater. Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Quoteerikn I got the accuracy thing fixed but now my printer just goes absolutely wild when I ask it to print a cube. It wont go past its limits anymore but it will be going all over the place when the cube is only 10mm^3. Could this be an issue between the Cura to Printrun gcode transfer? Have you checked and set the voltages on your stepper drivers?by SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Quoteerikn I just realized that I actually did receive some jumpers with my kit, I feel like I should have realized this late in the game. I only got one jumper per driver though so I installed them in the 1m slot, i.e. the 1/2 step slot. Then I went to measure the travel of the printer and it went 7.5mm per what is supposed to be 10mm. I guess the jumpers did their job. I'm going to use to calcuby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
great links from jbernardis. You need to calibrate your printer. First if it's a RAMPS board check the jumpers - power everything off before removing the driver boards. Next take the pulley type (usually a GT2 but could be T2.5) and the number of teeth on it and use the calculator jbernardis has linked to. This will give you the correct DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT value. compile/upload and see wby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Someome in New York should arrange to do a local pickup.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Have you set your #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT? What happens in Pronterface/printrun when you tell an axis to move 10mm? Does it move 10mm or more? When you tell an axis to home in Pronterface/printrun does it travel toward the end stop? Do you have all 3 jumpers under your drivers? Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
QuoteStalker Hi guys I found time to get back to my printer and it turned out that the problem was the power supply. Now i mannaged to move all the motors but the problem is that when i conect it to pronterface it moves only one way and i can not make them move the other all the motors are conected exactly the same way and only y axis moves both ways. Another thing is that some motors stop movingby SteveRoy - Reprappers
QuoteGannicus Sorry to keep making so many replies guys, but I notice on every Prusa kit BESIDES this one, the idlers have tensioner screws in them. My Y axis belt is tight (though it could stand to be a bit tighter) but my X has a lot of slop in it. I don't like the idea of the metal tension clips, as they must interfere at some point, and would rather have a proper adjustment for it. Does anyoby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteerikn UPDATE I was doing some more testing and I set the mm/min on Printrun to 1 and it worked! but it took a super long time to go down 1cm haha, I bumped it up to 5 and thats a nice speed... For some reason though it won't go down further than a certain point and I'm not sure why. It is not anywhere near the bottom but I think the machine thinks it hit its max. If you don't have your endby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
QuoteGannicus Well boys and girls...we've got SOMETHING! And it's better than nothing! LOL It's a lump of shit, but it's MY lump of shit. haha! It was exactly 10mm on one side, but my nuts fell off the belt plastic under the heated bed during printing. Both of them. Gonna put some loctite on those. I have a feeling the inaccuracies that occurred halfway up the cube are from that. epeated twiceby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
What's the DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE in Marlin? I found I had to change the defaut from 5 to 1 to stop Z-axis chatter. Also have you set the pot on the stepper driver? Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
QuoteGannicus Thanks guys...I've calmed myself...and will really crack down on this this weekend to get it running once and for all. I just wish there was some way to really pick your brains. A web forum takes too long to get replies etc. LOL I know the issue now is that I don't know how to use the software. I know that. It's all software issues at this point. I don't get why all four of those pby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGannicus Steve, I just gave in and relocated the X end stop to the left. No matter what I did, it didn't want to work on the right hand side. /shrug In the end, cutting some wire ties fiddling with wire loom was worth the time spent instead of the Vodoo Magic I was trying in order to get it to work properly. I just looked at their ebay store and noticed they put the X motor on the right siby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelouspinuso QuoteSteveRoy As Gannicus posted - for the Y end stop, if it's at the back it's a MIN, if at the front it's a MAX. You need to change the firmware and the position on the RAMPS to suit. Same with X, if it's on the left it's a MIN, on the right a MAX Steve See, this is what's blowing my mind. The X endstop is on the right but it's in the MIN position. I think that the more I lby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
As Gannicus posted - for the Y end stop, if it's at the back it's a MIN, if at the front it's a MAX. You need to change the firmware and the position on the RAMPS to suit. Same with X, if it's on the left it's a MIN, on the right a MAX Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Hope this helps.... End stops need to be setup before you can really test the motion of the printer. There are a number of variables with end stops both mechanical and firmware wise. For my build my X end stop is on the left side, the Y end stop is at the back and the z is at the bottom. With my i3, in prontorface if I ask the: X axis to move in the + direction the carriage moves to the right Iby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics