I am not sure how common the problem is, but I had the same thing happen with our i3/RAMPS build. It's a MOSFET that controls the heatbed. The heatbed resistence should be 1.2 or 1.3 ohms so the circut can pull 9A. We also found the resettable fuse got hot and let out the magic smoke too. There are a couple of threads on this forum about it. We replaced the Q3 STP55NF06L with a IRL8743PBF (withby SteveRoy - Reprappers
// ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 Change these lines depending on where the enstop is. You also need to make sure it's on the correct set of pins on the RAMPS board. If it's -1 it goes on the first set of pins on the RAMPS for that stop, if it's MAX it goes on the second set of pins on tby SteveRoy - RAMPS Electronics
QuotexxJaRxx Thanks Steve, a very informative post. What made you go for the Rework over the others available? The Hephestos quotes a 60 micron print resolution, is that something unique to that variant or common to all i3's? Also, have you got a genuine Arduino Mega 2560 or one of the numerous copies available. Are there any pros/cons with genuine vs copy? Thanks, James UK Hey James At the tby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Our first i3 build was the original "vanilla". We used a laser cut plywood frame (design by Shane Graber) Scratch build and not a kit so we could ensure the parts that matter like the hot-end and heated bed were quality (not saying a kit has inferior parts) Bought the printed parts off ebay. The things we didn't like/changed were: - The Y and Z end-stop mounts - used and - No tensioners forby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
If the X-endstop is on the right side you need to set it as a MAX endstop in sprinter and connect the wires to the MAX position on the RAMPS board. If it's on the left it's a MIN endstop. Same for the Y-endstop. If it's at the back it will be a MIN endstop, if it's at the front it will be a MAX endstop See my Instructable: andby SteveRoy - RAMPS Electronics
The heat from the nozzle is probably creeping up the extruder tube causing the filament to expand. I see from the video you have 2 fans running, one looks like it cools the print, the other? does it cool the motor or tube? (if there is a tube - hard to tell) Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
In your configure.h all of the endstops are defined as NO - switch contacts are normally open and when hit they close. So first I would check the 2 pins you are using going to the RAMPS. Unplug them from the RAMPS and check with a multi-meter. You only need 2 wires going to the RAMPS and they go on the S and the - In your configure.h the Y and Z are defined to use the MIN pins on the RAMPS anby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotepisquaredtau I have already printed most of it and will try it, but in case it does not work, what would you use? Either the vanilla or rework - lots of build info on them.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotepisquaredtau I am making one with a single frame. I have already started printing the parts from the website I first posted. Are these correct? If not what is? Thanks They should work. Personally not what I would use. If you use them let us know how the build goes. Cheers Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
It depends what version of i3 you want to make. The original "vanilla" stl's can be found here: Click the "download ZIP" button to get all the files. From that zip I would use the X, Y, Z parts and the belt guide for 623 idler bearings. The i3 we recently built used a "wades" extruder. We had to use OpenSCAD and compile the stl's ourselves when we made spares of the extruder etc The "vanilla"by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotepisquaredtau Will these work for the belt? Yes, but I thought you wanted cheap:by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotepisquaredtau I keep seeing the rework frame when looking for parts. Is this the same as the single frame? I know the difference between the boxed and single. The original "single frame" design uses aluminium and is 1 piece. Most "rework" frames are the same frame size but are made from plywood, MDF, acrylic etc and have 2 extra braces and 1 longer Y-Frame threaded rod. Unless you know somby SteveRoy - Reprappers
My friend and I recently built one - laser cut plywood frame, RAMPS etc I did and Instructable on the complete build Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Use a multi-meter on the wires to find pairs. Very low or no resistance/short will show a pair, open circuit won't. Then wiring to the RAMPS put pairs next to each other on the 4 pin connector. As already mentioned you need to enable a line in the Configuration.h to get the LCD working (and save/upload to Arduino) Steveby SteveRoy - General
Quotepushthatbolder what do i set line #480 to? from #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min) to #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {???????????????????????} // set the homing speeds (mm/min) what do you recommend? My i3 is set to default. You could try 2*60 which should half the speed. Do you have all 3 jumpers on under the Z-Axis driver board? Steveby SteveRoy - General
Never had to change pins.h for my i3 with RAMPS 1.4, just the Configuration.h Steveby SteveRoy - General
Have a look at my Instructable on an i3 build. I detailed the steps on getting the motors to work and configuring end-stops. I used Marlin but it's essentially the same Steveby SteveRoy - General
Can I assume you are using a RAMPS board? Is the RAMPS compatible with the Arduino Due? I have only used RAMPS with an Arduino Mega Steveby SteveRoy - General
Looks like you are connecting to the Arduino on Com3 and Pronterface is trying Com2. Pronterface should also look for the RAMPS on Com3 If the Arduino IDE is connected to the Arduino then Pronterface won't be able to, i.e. if you have the Arduino serial IDE open as per the first picture then Pronterface won't be able to access the port. Likewise if you have Pronterface connected to the printerby SteveRoy - General
For PLA I have been using blue "painters tape" on 3mm glass. I was also given a sheet of buildtak to test and have used it with both ABS at 110C and PLA at 60C with great results - again it's stuck onto 3mm glass. For ABS I'd use the buildtak, for PLA use blue painters tape I found kapton tape a real pain to use as it's hard to get it to lay onto the glass neatly. In slic3r you can also use a seby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
I am fairly new to 3D printers myself but recently finished an Prusa i3 build.... The motors will probably only go in 1 direction until they know their home position, so you need to get the end stops working/configured. With your Configuration.h file: the end stop switch logic is defined as true - so that means your switch is normally open and closes when it's hit, test the wiring with a meterby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
My friend and I built an i3 from scratch (vs a kit). I detailed the build on Instructables: We are getting great prints from it. Steveby SteveRoy - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Quoteflyrobot Anyone has tried to measure the Q3 temperature? What is normal operating temperature? Mine is very hot approx 140 C. According to Q3 mosfet datasheet, it can handled the heat upto 170 degree celcius and Current upto 55 Amp. But why the mosfet is very hot and i measured the current on the heat bed is only approx. 10Amp. I still searching the strongest mosfet and coldest for heatbed.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you see the bed temp in Pronterface when the "watch" box is checked? Even when not switched in it should show the room temp. Also under "Settings" -> "Options" -> "user interface" check the "Display temperature gauges" box Did you define the thermistor on the line: #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED Should be: #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 if there is a 100k thermistor Is the #define MOTHERBOARD seby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
My friend and I recently built a Prusa i3 from scratch (vs a kit) I documented it via an Instructable in the hope that it may help others doing a similar build. Cheers Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
A friend and I recently finished an i3 build. I documented it here: There is quite a lot of info on setting up the end stops in the Instructable. For the endstops we put the X on the left side, the Y at the back and the Z at the bottom. We used MIN for all the stops in the Configuration.h We also reversed the logic of the switches and make them normally open (NO) i.e. when the switch is hit iby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics