What does a multi-meter across the thermistor pins read in ohms?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Are there 3 jumpers under each driver on the RAMPs?by SteveRoy - Reprappers
An update - this year I looked after the VHS booth at Vancouvers "Mini Maker Faire". Friday I arrive at VHS, take the Prusa i3 out of it's enclosure and put it in the van wit the rest of our stuff. Head down and setup the booth. Power on the i3, load some filament and print from the SD card, didn't bother to check z height etc. Prefect print and no adjustment needed. We printed either tree frby SteveRoy - General
I print ABS at 65c on BuildTak with a simple box enclosure around my printerby SteveRoy - Reprappers
You really do need a multi-meter - to check voltage from the PS, voltage of steppers, motor wiring pairs etc. Do you have a local hackspace/makerspace - they will have one and also a bunch of people into 3D printers Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
All I can tell from the video is that your y belt is really loose. Did you go through the steps from my reply to your previous question?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Use a multi-meter to check the motor wiring pairs, don't trust the colour coded wires Use a multi-meter on the 2v DC setting to measure the driver voltages, do this with the 12V disconnected from the RAMPs and just the Arduino powered via USB. Somewhere around .7v is good minus lead to ground, positive lead to the pot on the driver - be very careful not to short anything Use M119 in repetierby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCollinkellar Also, do I need to download a firmware offline or is the board good to go as-is? There is no link to what you bought.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Find someone to print you this z endstop setup: Much finder adjustment than the stock. I used it when helping someone build a replikeo kit Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotealexmarin99 There's no way to move them, they just go in that position and there are no adjustments... Can you upload a picture of your endstops, so I can see what they look like and how/where they are positioned? You should be able to physically move the frame back or forward in relation to the chassis therefore changing where the y position is. The x endstop should be able to move along tby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteav8r1 Or is there a simpler/better/more straightforward way to do this? One of the reasons I love my wades style geared extruders - I just heat and then turn the big gear Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
So you are going to fix the instructions for Folger Tech?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a scratch built i3 and print at 50 mm/s. It would be nice to be proved wrong but I don't think an i3 could print anywhere near 120 mm/s Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
1. While I understand why people want a kit, most kits I have helped people with lack quality and do need some upgrades - especially in the z-axis endstop. Most people it seems want to go to auto-leveling because of the poor design in that area. If I was to buy a kit it would be the Prusa Research kit from the i3 designer. 2. yes aluminum all the way. I wouldn't even consider acrylic. I haveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
I use buildtak on a sheet of glass Bed heat of 65c I put a box around the printer to keep the heat in. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Check your DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE in Marlin, the default for the Z is 5 which is too high, try 2 #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} Or from Pronterface send the printer an M203 command: M203 Z2by SteveRoy - General
If it's a cheap China knock-off - toss it in the garbage and buy something like a genuine E3D, genuine hexagon or genuine j-head I've had great success with both a genuine J-head and the hexagon, but never tried an E3D. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril I switched to a 8gb sd card and now it looks to works fine. Well I still can't print anything As I don't have received my thermistor replacement nor the fan :/ If someone know if I can find spare parts in Vancouver, bc... I may have a thermistor that will work, I'll check my parts bin in the morning. I am in New Westminster For a fan, try RP Electronics or Lees Electronics Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I would check that all 3 jumpers are under the driver and also check the Z step value in Marlin.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I use to get a more accurate calculation of the time.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
@WilberMaker - Use M119 commands from repetier to check end stopsby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLucas Azevedo Hy everybody... Soo i bought the exact same 3d printer and i can't calibrate the z axis ... i encounter 2 problems 1º doing the auto home the extruder get out of the bed 2º the extruder is crashing in the bed ... Anyone facing the same problem ? 1 - adjust the end-stop position so it stops within the bed 2 - as per the other thread on this, what does a M119 show? i.e.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
It looks like it's moving off the X axis as it's going to the Z axis? Maybe adjust the Y axis so the bed is a little further forward?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDavid J QuoteSteveRoy Don't use an acrylic frame, use a mental frame if you can afford it. A "mental frame" - now there's a thing! Some days are like that! And I'm pretty sure there are some on the forum who think I am too :-) Cheers Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
What does an M119 sent to the printer show you when the z stop isn't closed? What does it give when it's closed? Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Living in an isolated corner of the globe has it's advantages - you get to live in NZ To answer some of your questions: You have Also AliExpress has a ton of 3D printer stuff available if you want to scratch build a printer. My advise is don't get a cheap knock-off hot-end and an alloy heated bed is better than a PCB type (I know I have used both) If you are really on a budget then look forby SteveRoy - General
QuoteTitan Isn't the ebay folger tech a prusa i3? They call it an i3, but it's more like an i2. An i2 has the motors at the top where as the i3 has the motors at the bottom with a stiffer frame. I think it's a marketing thing. The Prusa i3 is the most popular DIY and kit 3D printer and they would miss a lot of sales just calling it the "Folger 2020" The "Reprap Wilson II" is an example if anby SteveRoy - General
Not sure about the AliExpress one, as for the ebay one - look for a newer design like a Prusa i3. If doing a Prusa i3 I would suggest scratch building one so you can dictate the quality of the parts.by SteveRoy - General
My advice would be build it right the first time. Don't use an acrylic frame, use a mental frame if you can afford it. Buy a quality hot-end and heated bed. I've used genuine J-heads with no jams or issues ever, and more recently Hexagon's. My latest builds use: Aluminum heat bed Hexagon hot-end Use a newer design like the Prusa i3, not something with the motors on the top like the Prusa iby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
This is all I have ever needed on my i3. Allows for small micro adjustments. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants