If that works then the motor wiring is OKby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Meter the motor wiring to make sure the pairs are correct. Don't rely on the motor colour codes Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
QuoteprintingBro Yes, you are absolutely right. Thanks so much. I have fixed end stop issue and now it move better, but still wrong. The direction is ok, but amount is bad. Sometimes it jumps few steps back. You think current adjustment can help with this problem? Also check the motor wiring pairs with a multi-meter, (as well as everything Dust listed)by SteveRoy - Reprappers
QuoteTreito But for first commisioning and first print results if you are new into 3D printing ABL is a great help or do you think you (grand-) parents would be able to use an I3 by themselves? I will get my parents to try my Prusa i3 this summer when they visit. In fact I'll take them down to the Hackspace and give them a training session like I do for those members wanting to use the 3D priby SteveRoy - General
QuoteDjDemonD This is one of those issues where people who have solid printers and know how to level them think its a waste of time. People who have less rigid machines and are not sure how to level their bed think it's great. I know this as I used to be the second one and now I'm the first one. The trouble is we're talking about consumer, buy it, open it and print something-printers so we neeby SteveRoy - General
I can see a delta benefiting from an auto level system as all 3 axis move when printing a layer, but I'm with the_digital_dentist on this one. For a cartesian style, build a sturdy printer that doesn't flex and you wont need "auto bed leveling" or rather "auto compensation for a crappy build" Why on earth would you want to have z movement while printing a layer? Can anyone give me an honest ansby SteveRoy - General
I don't have a Folgertech.... but with my i3 I print PLA on 3M blue painters tape at 55c and ABS on buildtac at 65C, both stuck onto 3mm glass. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have 12v going to both 11A and 5A inputs on the RAMPS? Is the hotend on D10? Is the hotend thermistor on T0?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
A question for all the auto-level people - with auto level when your printer is printing in a layer in the x and y plane is the z-axis also moving the nozzle up and down during this layer?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteToxic0n How accurate are the printing estimations in Repetier/Slic3r? When I was printing at 0.4 and 0.3mm layer height, I thought they were pretty close. Printed these Z mounts at 0.2mm for the first time last night and the ETA said 2:44 and it took over 5 hours? 60mm/s printing speed. On the flip side, they look good! From what I understand the slicers don't take acceleration/deceleraby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
From pronterface or repeiter send an M119 command to see the state of the end stops. I'm not sure what controller board you have, but there is a MIN and MAX set of jumpers for each axis. In your setup X is Max, Y is Min and Z is Min Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Yeah, worry about the LCD last. Get the motors and end stops working, tune the printer, then worry about the LCD. A multi-meter is your friend when building one of these. Cheersby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Use a multi-meter to check wire pairs: Pairs go side by side when wiring to the RAMPS/controller boardby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma If you're not using autolevel then threaded rod is acceptable but not ideal. If you're using autolevel then I'd strongly suggest using lead screws since you have up and down motion within a layer so backlash and accuracy become a much bigger deal and wear is greatly increased without them. So lead screws would be better than M5 threaded without auto level?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Honestly asking the distance between the nozzle and plate is like asking "how long is a piece of string" There is no exact number. It should be about a paper thickness (probably 100 micron). But to add o_lampe's reply - it's something that you need to learn and it will be different depending on filament type, what you use on the bed for adhesion (blue tape, kapton tape, buildtak etc). I use paby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to check if the endstops are working as you want them to. In pronterface with the axis off their endstops send the printer a M119 command What does it show? Then manually trigger each endstop in turn and send the printer the M119 command when triggered What does it show?by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Why not use a Wades style? So much easier to change filament and prime the hot-end by using the large gear. I've used this design with a hexagon and there are also E3D files included: Lots of options for cooling fans too. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Why are the z axis motors at the top? Having them at the bottom would be better wouldn't it? Less weight up high is always good? Yes the motors in the i2 design had the motors at the top which didn't help frame movement. They were move down in the i3 design which also has a more rigid frame than the original i2. The 2020 is really an i2 design but I suspect it's branded as an i3 (wby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I'd be interested in how rigid the frame is and if the power supply can handle the heated bed and nozzle at the same time. 20A PS is 240watts, which should be enough Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Are the jumpers/pins under the drivers on the controller board? If so are all 3 of them jumpered?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I would be wary of: 1. not getting the DXF files of the frame in case you need to replace a piece 2. the extruder hot-end combo. MK8 units like these from China usually have poor tolerances/construction vs a genuine J-head or E3D 3. the heated bed probably won't stay flat for long 4. I doubt it will print at 120mm/s probably for like 50mm/s which is typical for an i3 design like this. An acryliby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a geeetech LCD12864 I haven't used any of the other products from Staticboard, but I'm very happy with the quality of their RAMPs board I also haven't needed a proximity sensor for the i3's I've built, I just use a simple setup like in this post: Cheers Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Not a close comparison. If someone downloads an illegal copy of a song or movie it's an actual copy of the real thing. Using your example of music/movies it would be like buying a copy of the movie Star Wars and finding it has all Chinese actors and sub-titles. What I find is amazing is people buy what they know is a cheaper clone of properly engineered and tested product that needs the rightby SteveRoy - General
First question - Flames or Oilers? It's nice to see someone wanting to build a quality i3 from scratch rather than from the cheapest kit they can find. I have built 3 i3's from scratch, the first being a "vanilla" i3 the next two being reworks. 1. Use an aluminum frame and bed frame, better than plywood. 6mm is fine. For the build we did for my local Hackspace we used aluminum. A member CNC'dby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Try adjust the stepper pot - or better still check the voltage with a multi-meter and adjust if necessary. I would also meter the motor pairs and check they are correct - don't rely on the colour code. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Im printing at 15mm/s instead of 30mm/s, I want to see if it increases the print quality. Will report back! How slow do you guys print? You should be able to print at 50mm/s, layer height .2mm with an i3 style printerby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Have any of you used cura over slicer? from some posts on the interwebs it looks like it does a finer job. I can obviously believe everything I read lol I use both. They obviously slice things differently and I have found some stl's slice better in Cure, others in Slic3r Cura is different in that you state perimeters & solid top/bottom layers in mm vs Slic3r using a number. e.gby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Im wondering how much you guys like autolevel? And whats the easiest way to do it? With my Prusa i3's I've never needed it. Honestly I think it shouldn't be needed if you have a properly built chassis and a flat heated bed. Why would you want the z-axis motors moving while printing a layer? Only to compensate for an uneven build. With a delta style printer I can see the use, butby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants