Based on that article we've had a proposal at my local Hackspace to ban ABS printing until a fume extraction system is put into place.by SteveRoy - General
Are you homing all the axis first? A printer needs to know it's home position before it can move it both directionsby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegrant I'm actually using ABS. After fine-tuning the bed more precisely, using a wide brim and hairspray, I'm getting it to stick so well it's actually pretty hard to get off. One vague problem I had this morning is that about 1.5 hours into a 2.5-hour print, it just abruptly stopped and logged the error "communication timeout reset send buffer block". It happened just a moment after I unpluby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
The answer to the original question (anyone have an idea how to fix this) is: Spend another $100.00 And Brian I appreciate the work you put into your designs. I have the Makerfarm J-head in my Prusa i3 and have never had a jam or any issues with it ever - and I have hours of print time on it.by SteveRoy - General
There a few changes you would need to make to the configuration.h file from a fresh install of Marlin. It's not that hard and something that should be learnt (IMHO). Also based on the pulley type and number of teeth you can use this calculator to get the correct values for X and Y steps and also Z step values: Extrusion values are manually calculated. The other values depend on your end stopby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Feedrate too high in Marlin? #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} If it's 5 rather than 2 try change it, compile/upload If it's not that, check motor pairs with a multi-meter Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quoteawdorrin James, After a bit more research, and re-reading your post, I think I understand this more fully. There was a very good write-up that I found here: Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts in extrusion-based 3d printing So now I understand what you meannt about letting the Z-threaded rod float. I took a picture of my printer, and did a little editing in paint: So, I figure I could eitherby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Personally I would never use a knock-off from China. I have used 2 genuine J-Head's and 1 hexagon in my builds - only ever cleared on jam in the hexagon and I don't know who did it as it was in the 3D printer I built for my local hackspace. I`ve printed hours of PLA with the j-head and never had an issue. The j-Head is good for PLA and ABS, the hexagon is all metal and should do any type of filaby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I've used them in 2 of my 3 builds - great product.by SteveRoy - General
Nice frame, that's how all Prusa i3's should start out.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
If it has a standard Arduino/RAMPs board or combination then you need the Arduino IDE: What this does is take the firmware and upload it to the Arduino portion of the printer hardware. You will need to know the board type (Most are Mega) also the port the board is on. Run the Arduino program, set the board type and port, test the compile and upload to the board Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
- have you check the motor wiring pairs with a multi-meter? do not reply on wiring colour codes - have you put all 3 jumpers under the driver on the RAMPS? - have you checked the voltages of the driver with a multi-meter? 2v DC setting between ground and the pot, with the 12V power off and just USB to power the Arduino/RAMPs - should ready around .6v - have you changed the #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotetjnamtiw I've been getting decent prints from the day I pushed the 'go' button. Pretty much set it and forget it for the FT 2020 if you take the time to set it up. That's without upgrades except for more print height. Too many Folger Tech bashers on here IMHO. Hey, I'm happy if you're happy. I've been getting awesome prints from my scratch built Prusa i3 from the day I finished it. Iby SteveRoy - General
QuoteUltiFix I finally pulled the trigger on the Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3 Full Aluminum 3D Printer Kit, were should I start reading!! Start here:by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D QuoteUltiFix How much different than the oiginal Prusia I3 is this printer? The original Prusa i3 uses a flat piece of acrylic or wood as the vertical portion, with rods bolted into the bottom to hold the Y axis setup, which form the entirety of the frame. The acrylic is subject to deformation from the heat and general flexibility, but works well for most people. The original Prusby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix How much different than the oiginal Prusia I3 is this printer? It's more like a Prusa i2 than an i3by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I use an older android smart phone with IP Webcam Steveby SteveRoy - General
What do you want to do? Buy a ready to go printer with a solid frame and just start printing? Buy a kit, build it, pull it apart to "upgrade it", rebuild it and then start printing? Personally I wouldn't buy a kit that had: - an acrylic frame - is based on the older Prusa i2 design (motors on top) While I understand we are all trying to perfect our printers with various tweaks, I don't understaby SteveRoy - General
Do you have the X endstop wires on the correct pins on your RAMPS board? See my attached pictures. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm out of ideas. If you've check the motor wiring pairs, the stepper voltage and made the changes to your configuration.h I'm not sure what else. If you have a hackspace/makerspace close to you take it there and see if anyone can helpby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500,500,5,25} // (mm/sec) needs to be: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500,500,2,25} // (mm/sec) Also in my configuration.h the HOMING_FEEDRATE like is: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min) Maybe you changed the HOMING_FEEDRATE rather than the DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE? Also I am guessing you have a Foger Tech 2020? (likby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
post your configuration.h file so I can take a lookby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Hmm, you get no movement of the z after that when you try move it?by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I have built 3 Prusa i3's none of which have auto levelling. I have a solid spacer on the home position corner, 3mm bolts with springs and nylocks on the other 3 corners and a micro adjustable z endstop. I set the home position corner then go around the other corners, then re-check. Once this is setup I don't have to check the corners unless I move the printer itself - I just check the z home poby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Jonathan try this: power the printer on, connect your PC/Mac to it with whatever software you use. give the printer these commands: M203 Z120 M92 Z4000 This assumes you have m5 threaded rods for your Z axis. If this works then you need to change the Z axis feedrate in Marlin Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe Sorry, my bad... -Olaf No, it's all good - I learnt more M commands in the processby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
o_lampe - doesn't an M92 set steps_per_unit and not feedrate? M203 is feedrate in mm/min so M203 Z120 should work and M92 Z4000 (providing it has m5 threaded) Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejonbroadfoot I am using marlin and a ramps board with an arduino Get Pronterface here: Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotejonbroadfoot Could you possible copy and paste that part of your firmware into here so I could double check what I have compared to you? If you use pronterface to control the printer it will show these values when you connect to it.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
I've never needed any auto bed leveling. I set the 4 corners and don't need to adjust them for weeks and then it's only if I move the printer and set it up again. I do check the home position with the usual paper test when I change the filament, but that's about it. A properly built and setup/calibrated i3 shouldn't need auto leveling - really it's just compensating for something that's out of aby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants