If you're getting no joy here, you might try over at fiverr .by 3dkarma - General
It looks like there are multiple problems with the print, probably related to temperature and under or over extrusion. It may even be that e-steps per mm is off. Have you calibrated the printer yet?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Looks like your nozzle may be too high when the print starts. Have you calibrated the home position for the Z axis?by 3dkarma - Printing
Try increasing retraction. When the print head moves from one location to another it can leave a string of filament behind if the filament is not retracted enough before the move.by 3dkarma - Printing
Move axis means move in X, Y and Z planes. Do you mean extrude instead of move axis?by 3dkarma - General
Quotedavedavedave oh so whats the downside to using lower gauges on hotends that require 7+ amps? is it not able to reach temps fast enough? or will they not heat up at all? thanks. The danger of using a wire that's of too light a gauge is heat. Drawing too much current through too thin a wire will cause the wire to heat up and potentially cause a fire. While 22 AWG might be OK, always err onby 3dkarma - General
Axis generally means X, Y or Z. Do you mean extrude or retract filament? What kind of printer do you have? Have you configured Marlin with multiple hot ends? You're not giving us much information to go on.by 3dkarma - General
Quotedavedavedave thanks a million for the links and the advice. its gonna help a lot! i found this wire, is this better? i plan on buying the 22 gauge from the link and was wondering if this would also be a good buy are these the same as the ones you linked me too? only a thicker wire i am assuming. 6 color 18 gauge 100ft The thicker the wires are, the less flexibility they will have. I can'by 3dkarma - General
Quoteo_lampe Did you say, you want to extent the cables for the E3Dv6? Than you might look for a pair of thicker wire than 22AWG or the hotend will stay too"cold". I´m not familiar with these AWG sizes, probably some US-reprapper can tell? If you have a smart-LCD, don´t extend these cables. They already work like antennas and I had scrambled screens more than once. -Olaf This is an important poby 3dkarma - General
$22 for 6 25 foot spools, including red, black green and blue (which are the colours of the stepper wires)by 3dkarma - General
PLA is going to be easier to print with and responds well to having a fan directed at the business end. A lot of your "squishiness" will disappear as a result. Having both your Z motors connected to the same driver is fairly standard, but you need to make sure you have the reference voltage on the driver set correctly. If you think it's missing steps (which you can detect by moving the Z axisby 3dkarma - Printing
I use what is roughly equivalent to spools of 22 awg multi-core hookup wire to extend motor and fan cables without any problems. They're readily available in spools in all the colours you need.by 3dkarma - General
Quotecdru They've been tried. Search the forum for igus or drylin. Sometimes they are referred to as being bushings instead of bearings as well. It comes down to cost. A standard LM8UU bearing is 1/10th the price of a Igus Drylin bearing. I think an order of magnitude is overstating it a bit, but there's no question that the igus bearings are more expensive. They are much more expensive thanby 3dkarma - General
Insufficient layer adhesion can be caused by printing at too low a temperature. What temperature are you printing at? With ABS you need to be especially careful of drafts. A lot of people find an enclosure necessary to maintain a constant temperature as uneven cooling can cause ABS layers to warp and separate. Do you have a fan pointed at the print? From what I can see of the top surface ofby 3dkarma - Printing
Sounds a bit like you're printing too fast for the printer. What print speed do you have set?by 3dkarma - Printing
Have you calibrated E steps per mm and set the correct Z steps per mm? It sound like you're over-extruding, which would fit the description of smaller objects coming out OK but bigger looking like they do.by 3dkarma - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Another problem with using belts to do the lifting is the resolution - i.e. the layer thickness. With a 1 mm pitch screw, a ful rev of the drive motor will move the bed 1mm. With a small pulley, one rev will move the bed maybe 25-30 mm. You will need to make a reducer to get reasonable resolution and to amplify the torque from the motor.. Geared NEMA 17 motors are reaby 3dkarma - Mechanics
If you're in the UK, only licensed organisations can print a plate.by 3dkarma - Printing
Surely move axis moves both extruders at the same time?by 3dkarma - General
Switching polarity on the stepper motors will just get them moving in the opposite direction; you won't cause them any harm.by 3dkarma - General
There are a number of ebay sellers that sell parts or whole kits. gcolbourn is a good source. He's good a good reputation and is active on this board (take a look at the for sale section).by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Marlin lets you have either max or min endstops, or both, so you should be OK.by 3dkarma - Mechanics
It looks like your stepper motor is skipping steps. I can see that you've got a direct drive extruder - it may be that your stepper motor isn't strong enough to push the filament through. Can you post the model number of the motor? We should be able to look up how strong it is from that. You will possibly need to consider switching to a geared extruder or swapping out the motor for somethingby 3dkarma - Printing
How good are your design skills? You could readily adapt one of these by creating a boom to go between the extruder and the shroud.by 3dkarma - General
You can use a fan without a duct and still get good results. The hot end will just have to work harder to retain temperature, as there's sure to be some airflow over it.by 3dkarma - General
I have had problems with Slic3r's default extrusion width settings. I got the same delamination problem at the same layer height using Slic3r's default extrusion width. I would suggest changing all of the extrusion width settings to 0.5mm and trying a test print, just to see what you get.by 3dkarma - General
Looks like you'd have to cut the teeth on the spur bolt pretty deep to avoid the line fouling on the nuts that guide the spur bolt.by 3dkarma - Mechanics
What are your extrusion width / layer height settings compared to your nozzle diameter? Even at higher temperatures, you can get delamination if these aren't set correctly. Layer height should be less than 80% of nozzle diameter and extrusion width should be greater than nozzle diameter. A good rule of thumb is to start at 0.2mm layer height and 0.5mm extrusion width. Edit: also check to makeby 3dkarma - General
QuotePuckit Doesn't the drive gear has to have an inconsistent diameter because it is hobbed...? The hobbed part has a smaller diameter than the rest of it, but I'm talking about checking whether or not the hobbed part is oval in cross-section or circular.by 3dkarma - Printing
It might be worth checking the hobbed bolt in your extruder (if there is one, otherwise the drive gear) for consistent diameter. Changes in the amount of grip it has on the filament may cause the pulsing you're describing. I would also look for any misalignment of the hobbed bolt and drive gears. Also check your filament diameter along a reasonable length to see if the diameter is consistent.by 3dkarma - Printing