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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: Prusa i3 Z axis problems help - 11 years ago
Can you swap one x-motor and z-motor and try? Have you checked z-motor connectors or wire resistance? Have you checked the threaded rods and nuts on Z? Z threaded rods and plastic couplers, do they "bend" equally or slip. I have the aluminium ones...by Plasteroid - General
Re: Thin wall repair tool? - 11 years ago
A little bit late, but in Blender there is 3D Printing Toolbox (extension) and you can check thin walls etc. Then repair manually or with the solidify modifier. Blender can be quite different to use from other programs... There is exporting stl...by Plasteroid - 3D Design tools
Re: The hell skull - 11 years ago
You could try to cut that stl in some 3D software where it ended and try to print the rest of the piece separately. Then glue. If it ABS plastic, inexpensive ABS juice and it sticks almost even better than original layers. You could try also fan blowing very faintly or enough to the piece (better quality). Or just sand paper.by Plasteroid - Printing
Re: Prusa Mendel i2 - Prints Test Objects But Not Others - 11 years ago
Can you extrude from Pronterface 15mm or something I have speed 60mm/s? I do it alwas before starting to print or 3x5mm. Slipping Filament? Too cold hot end? Marlin or other firmaware extrusion speed too fast?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa Mendel i2 - Prints Test Objects But Not Others - 11 years ago
What happens if you install Cura and print your stl from there? I have got strange results sometimes with Pronterface + Slic3r on Linux. edit: thingiverse things sometimes have errors.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa - 11 years ago
I have not got problems with Arduino 2560 Mega + Ramps 1.4 / Marlin firmware. I use 3mm filaments, but perhaps 1.75mm is already more common now. 1.75mm also if you want a Bowden type extruder. 3mm is perhaps better in not slipping when feeding some special filament types to hot end?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Snap fit printing - 11 years ago
I haven't found enough easy info. But I have made enough different prints and tests with different settings to achieve enough flexibility and durability for some pieces: for example. Thick enough ABS perimeters and 10% rectilinear infill? Perhaps it is easier to study "clips" what other people have done in thingverse.com for example ( and so on). There is of course data for ABS strength calcuby Plasteroid - Printing
Re: What other printer can I make with the parts from a Reprappro Mendel - 11 years ago
I have been thinking this kind of frame for i3 parts (a big image takes to load): That cube type frame is stable and easy to cover and etc. No further plans yet...by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prints wobbly on Prusa - 11 years ago
Hmm. Yes. I have a4988 and 0.6V, but with the heatsinks. Perhaps jpmadden86 has DRV8825? But 1.5V is very much.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prints wobbly on Prusa - 11 years ago
Is your frame loose? Hot end can be loose too.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prints wobbly on Prusa - 11 years ago
Are you driving too fast? Are the belts loose?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: First layer height change at will? - 11 years ago
Do you have a glass bed or just PCB bending with the heat and.. ? Bed screws / spring problems? I once had the extruder /hot end bolts loose and I thought what the he** is happening with my prints.!by Plasteroid - Printing
Re: Hotend not heating past 185c - 11 years ago
Check #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 230 ? You can reload your firmware if there were problems... Some limits in your printing soft. ?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i2 bulldog extruder jumping back - 11 years ago
Perhaps you are extruding too fast? Or there is a "cliff" inside. The filament gets curved and stucked?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Ramp probs! prusa hephestos. (defect ramp?) - 11 years ago
Did you see this : Broken parts or something. Have you checked that there is current at the end of motor cable? Ramps to Arduino pins not aligned correctly?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Ramp probs! prusa hephestos. (defect ramp?) - 11 years ago
Have you firmware loaded to your Mega? If you heat your extruder, does that motor work?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Panic button? - 11 years ago
Well, I did not trust to software. I have put a panic switch between power and motors.by Plasteroid - Printing
Re: hot end heat issues - 11 years ago
Have you checked Marlin: // When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off. // This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure! // You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection. #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275 Do you have heat bed / hot end wires reversed? Thermistor loose or failing? Just thoughby Plasteroid - Printing
Re: hot end heat issues - 11 years ago
Have you printed from PC and Did you monitor the heat curve from Pronterface from example? Have you checked firmware / thermistor settings? What firmware? I have Marlin.by Plasteroid - Printing
Re: Very strange behaviour - 11 years ago
Have you checked the gcode of the file to be printed? I don't know why Cura makes for my printer: G1 Z15.0 F7800 ;move the platform down 15mm. I don' have a moving platform (wrong comment)? It's just a move up... I don't know how your Z probe works, but perhaps...the problem is in the gcode start?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: need help with prusa i3 - 11 years ago
My motors go only to home first and then they go + and -. So build everything first.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Glass bed??? - 11 years ago
In some case you could just take the measurements of your bed and go to the normal hardware store and they cut for you few 3mm thick glass beds. If there is service. You can also cut your own. Use gloves and safety glasses. There are just few tricks how to cut glass properly.by Plasteroid - General
Re: 3mm Pla clogging in long prints - 11 years ago
I'm not a PLA master, but there is some talk about the retraction and clogging: Difficult to test if it happens after 4 hours.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: [Beginner] Question over Prusa I3 - 11 years ago
I am really from EU too. I bought my kit from here: Ugh! the X-carrier was missing and I had to build my own made of plastic tube, metal plate and wood. And then print the original part... But kitprinter3d.com seems to have optional parts and frame etc. in good price. The delivery was expensive 50€ for me. It is better to have that 30A for the heated bed etc. later lights and so.... when it isby Plasteroid - General
Re: [Beginner] Question over Prusa I3 - 11 years ago
I have the frame "rod" version like that and it has been working well. There is a lot of parts to make i3 better, so it does not get "old" very easily. Easier and cheap is to buy 30A power for your printer: If you have basic soldering skills etc. it is not difficult to build. Just because of many variations and documentation it can take many hours to build.by Plasteroid - General
Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 11 years ago
Hey! I thought that a fan is bad for ABS. But then there was this on the forum: . I think that a fan can "freeze" ABS before it starts curling up. It can also prevent ABS sticking so perhaps it is some kind of "correct balance" what it needs? On big parts I don't usually use the fan, but look what I achieved to print with a fan on: ...and it was ABS plastic. P.S. Is it good ABS if you needby Plasteroid - Printing
Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 11 years ago
How hot your bed is? I have 110C and I start the fan after the first layer and I use ABS juice. My ABS curling has gone better with a 40mm fan which has a tiny tip duct. Perhaps your blows too much?by Plasteroid - Printing
Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 11 years ago
250C is very hot if your thermistor is Ok. I have used max. 235C on ABS. Your part looks too melted. Use a fan or lower your hotend temp or draw a perfect support structure. My little parts got better with a fan and a duct (ABS). And I mean a fan blowing to the plastic, not a hotend cooler. P.S. Slic3r has a random layer starting point option I think....by Plasteroid - Printing
Re: Z axis bearings getting loose, is this normal? - 11 years ago
I have mostly same kind of part. Perhaps it melted or cracked a little . Print ABS ones.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Re: Newbie question about ducted fans - 11 years ago
I have to disagree with no fan when printing ABS. I found that I need a fan when printing very small curvy objects. I have tested this with a 30 mm human figure and without a fan the results were really bad. Bigger parts don't need usually fan.by Plasteroid - General