I have tried with 250C and 10mm/s speed. After the first layer the filament stops melting and going throught the hot end. I think that this needs very exact settings. What about the fan? I have a direct drive extruder. Properties Innofil3D InnoFlex Filament 2.85mm Filament : Innofil3D InnoFlex PLA Chemical name: DSM Arnitel Eco Flexible 3D Printing Filament High UV resistanceby Plasteroid - Printing
I was thinking to convert my i3 to use Bowden,but I did not do it because the Y-axis still anyway has it's weight and speed limit. Why then 1.75mm? I thought that 3mm is better with flexible filaments?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
If you have the block, do you have also the correct size hobbed bolt etc. Perhaps you can use 3mm block and make adjustment in printing soft to 1.75mm filament size. Or you can just make the hole smaller in some CAD? Just tighten the springs then... Here is the 1.75mm Wader:by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
400 and 800. Matt, yes. touching fast with acetone and cotton cloth can give gloss... or ruin your piece. Acetone vapor for gloss. I have not tried cold acetone vapor yet, there is a video somewhere in Youtube.by Plasteroid - Printing
Very fine sandpaper.by Plasteroid - Printing
If it sometimes works and sometimes not it sounds like a connector / wire loose problem? 3D printers usually shake a lot... How the software could change without doing nothing? Or your electronics board has something loose?. I have same type connectors with three wires, but no LCD. P.S. Did you check this? "Homing issues with Marlin" there are few solutions:by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
You did not provide enough info: firmware, endstops type etc. min or max? Perhaps the endstop plugs are lose or wires broken? If it worked before, I think that it can be something like broken wires (Once happened to me). Do you use Pronterface or... send commands M119 or M114 ?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
- 11 years agoWhy you use kapton tape with ABS? Glass bed 110C and ABS Juice + surgical knife no problems n save money: Demo here:by Plasteroid - Printing
Quite hard to make from ABS. Hand drawn support structure or the Cura support for overhangs etc. could help. I have done support structures to sphere like objects:by Plasteroid - Printing
Here is some talk about the "calibration": I think that the things you can do are: check that your thermistor gives correct readings, check firmaware, check if it is well connected to the heat element. I have my bed, hot end and a thermometer showing 21C quite exactly at the room temperature. I haven't boiled / checked then my thermistor (100C, perhaps difficult). If there is a big differenceby Plasteroid - Printing
Some infill / perimeter settings seem to produce much horrible vibration. General rules to avoid that? Better infill 0 in small gaps? I had 10% and disturbing shake. 2mm wall, 10% infill, 0.4mm wide 2 perimeters = 0.4mm gap?by Plasteroid - General
Your parts look a little bit melted. Have you checked, calibrated your thermistor? Perhaps that hot end type has some problems and the heat travels up ?by Plasteroid - Printing
Triple check your wires. 21 Celsius is your room temp. so something is working. You should connect to a PC so you can test better with Pronterface for example. Test switches with G commands on Pronterface etc.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
I think that It is a spanish invention. I bought it from here, I dont know if there are other places where to buy. After some hours (many) I got a jam, but It is easy to unclog. Heat, open springs, reverse from Pronterface and pull slightly with hand, cut a new end to a filament, clean the hobbed bolt, push the the filament in again etc. 5 minutes procedure... I have my bed adjusted just withby Plasteroid - Printing
I think that you have too cold hot end. I run 232C or 235C for white ABS. Perhaps you have to go even higher. I have never used a fan with my Catnozzle. See my signature video down... to see it and some explanation (text under). I dont know how your hotend handles the heat but I can go 245 and even higher, and no melting extruder body, without a fan. . I have Pronterface and I use always manual tby Plasteroid - Printing
You could use CURA and there is a plugin Tweak At Z, so you can lower speed after some layers when your print is getting high.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
I did not found a circle, but there are few commands to move:by Plasteroid - General
I printed A skull, a mandil and few parts for my Prusa i3 with white 3mm iGo3D filament and I was pleased enough with the results: There was few 50mm bridges. 0.3mm layers. The filament was exactly 3mm in few points where I took the measurements. The teeth of the skull was printed apart because the nozzle jammed 5 minutes before the end (3 hours). The hobbed bolt was full of grinded filament.by Plasteroid - General
Perhaps you have to calibrate your steps? look here: and here: My i3 printing a skull:by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
How I can convert .stl or .ply files to .amf and give them color? Does slic3r or other program somehow understand printing multiple colors then?by Plasteroid - General
Which extruder for Prusa i3? Parts? 3mm or 1.75mm filament, which is better?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
I have managed to make quite small and nice things from ABS, but it needs very precise configuration, support structures and very adhesive ABS juice bed. Perhaps there is a lot of quality variation between different ABS brands? Small ABS gears on my Reprap:by Plasteroid - General
Check connection speed. I have 250000, using Pronterface.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Most of the problems have been now for SketchUp and I have to sometimes draw some things with totally different approach. In Sketchup is easy to make errors.by Plasteroid - 3D Design tools
I usually use skirt around the print, but it doesn't help with oozed filament smudging around nozzle hanging there and messing with the print. Sometimes with luck the ooze drops and stays away, but not always. Perhaps easier with PLA, but for now I'm using ABS. I have to try if it is then so simple like homing Z (parking the nozzle) ? Almost against glass bed no oozing then.by Plasteroid - General
It could be then steel wool cleaning point somewhere near the edge (or some other material). A piece of G-code. Cleaning before start options should be integrated to Slic3r.by Plasteroid - General
I have to extrude 5mm and take it off with pliers just before the printing starts. What comercial machines do to clean the nozzle at start? Has someone invented something automatic nozzle cleaning?by Plasteroid - General
Did you calibrate your drivers / motors? I have 0.65V for the Extruder and the others 0.4V?by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
USB gives also power, I have only Arduino led on. But you have to have on/off switch between power & printer if you want switch down fast. Power has big capacitores and some charge.by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Do I Need an Extruder Motor Fan If I Build an Enclosure Over Print Area? Normal printing and open heatbed my motors do not get hot at all. Perhaps not 100% closed, but something against drafts.by Plasteroid - General