Tramagust Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Warning! All previous experiments have left the > extruders blocked with nylon that had to be > drilled out! There's a very real chance you'll > ruin your extruder. It did jam my extruder, but I didn't have to drill it out. Just run ABS behind it and you should eventually get the nylon pushed out.by dazed.dnc - General
First off, I need to correct some of the things I said earlier. Perimeter width over layer thickness in the carve tab does not change the infill of solid layers. It only effects the spacing between the perimeter and the interior extrusions. You need to look at infill width over thickness in the fill tab instead. Sorry for my stupid mix up and any aggravation it may have caused. Fixing solid layeby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I'm finding that my speed is limited by the capability of the controler and motors more than anything. If I move my Z axis too fast, the motors can't keep up and it will just vibrate between two magnetic poles. If I run X and Y too fast, the firmware locks up. Using lower micro step resolutions will help you run faster, but it gets noisier and you sacrifice resolution. If you are talking about goby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Cain Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >I'm sure the closer it is, the more accurate the machine will > be. Any information would be helpful on > squaring/making everything level. That is pretty much the deciding factor. How much more accurate do you want to go and how much time are you willing to spend getting it there? As far as having a bare-minimum workby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
I'm not familiar with aryldite, but don't use anything *too* strong. If you need to pull the gear off for some reason, you want to be able to remove them. For example, mine were not cut very well. It looks like the laser cutter was not perpendicular to the workpiece. If yours are the same, you might decide that you want to replace them. I used a couple of drops of super glue. It was strong enoughby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
If it was pre-loaded by techzone, it should have the standard reprap 5D firmware. Tour through the links at http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_User_Manual and you should learn everything from what software you need to solving extruder problems.by dazed.dnc - General
If a 20GB page file didn't help, I doubt that a second page file will change anything. I just made a new one because I had a spare drive installed and it didn't have a page file already. Expanding the first one should have the same effect. Since the page file didn't help, try slicing a model that is known to be slice-able. Try this one unless you know of something smaller that has worked before:by dazed.dnc - General
I actually didn't pay attention to dimensions. I just left everything as wide open as it could possibly go. I left the nuts finger tight and squared up the axes after I had everything assembled. Then I tightened everything down with wrenches and lock-tightened the stuff I was sure would not be needing adjusted again. I didn't have calipers big enough to get good measurements on most of it. As loby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
I saw someone suggest stuffing PLA into an oven on low heat to bake it out, but I wouldn't want to do that with nylon since it smells nasty, releases toxic fumes, and might taint food. Maybe a solar oven could be used instead? Another possible explanation is that you are applying too much heat and the filament is decomposing into (toxic!!!) gases. If it is also brittle, then you are using too muby dazed.dnc - General
I haven't checked out ReplicatorG progress lately. If it truly is compatible with 5d firmware now, it is a much more user friendly GUI, but any gain in print quality is going to come from the fact that it uses skeinforge to slice up models. Skeinforge is more tweak-able and is frequently updated as new slicing techniques emerge. I don't think the slicing function of the host software has been updby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
The problem with nylon is that the trimmer line is very floppy and the nylon plug offers a lot of friction as it moves through the barrel. The plug will jam up and because nylon trimmer line isn't very ridged, it will tend to bow and kink rather than push the plug. Its like trying to push something with a rope. If you have a tapered or extremely short melt zone, it might be possible to use it thby dazed.dnc - General
This is something I have been struggling with off and on as well. I have always used a PTFE insulator in the makerbot MK4 with virtually no trouble. Take the same hot end construction (including hose clamps and bolts) and put it on a reprap and it doesn't work as well. I would get one to work for 2, maybe 3 weeks then it would start jamming again and I would have to replace the PTFE. I have notby dazed.dnc - General
Switching to skeinforge will give you more control over how things are done. This enables you to control the extrusion and application of heat a little more which will result in better prints. Skeinforge also does bridges better, which you will find very useful as you try to print more complex parts. You still need send.py, the reprap host, or something else to actually send the Gcode, but skeinfby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
How have you applied your heater element? Is is possible that one lump was actually hotter than the other due to uneven heat distribution?by dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I ran into the same problem with a model I recently sliced. The model had some areas that sliced too thin, so I modified the part to beef it up a bit. There may have been a mesh defect which was fixed when I made the change, but the other thing I did was add another page file on my spare drive. The page file is virtual memory. Since it uses the hard drive, it cannot be accessed as fast so relyingby dazed.dnc - General
> I am thinking about making a Mendel, but i want > one that can print things larger than 8"x8"x5.5" Just keep in mind that build times can exponentially increase as the volume of your printed area expands. Also, leveling the build surface such that the extreme ends still bond well to the bed is more difficult with a larger build plate due to how the offset will grow as you travel outwardsby dazed.dnc - General
mlagana Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i have been prinitng black ABS on blue painters > tape + heated bed and it has stuck every time no > rafts needed What brand of tape are you using? Maybe the texture or composition of your tape is a bit different from what I have been using. When I tried it, I could get the first layer to stick maybe once every tenby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Especially if you need an air-tight fit, that would require some type of custom extruder tip. You need to extrude right next to the part. With current tips, at best you would always have a roughly 1mm gap due to the thickness at the nozzle tip. If the part you are embedding is tall, then you would have an even bigger gap due to the profile of the hot end. My extudrer carriage has a couple of scrby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ABS won't stick to painters tape unless you have a > heated bed. I don't think ABS sticks to painters tape period. I didn't have any luck with it anyhow - with or without a heated bed. I also tried regular masking tape, but Kapton is the only tape I have tried that works with any reliability, of course you still needby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
The driver chips should have thermal shut off built in. When your motors are idle but still energized, you will probably notice a whine or buzz. If you hear that noise pulsate, it is very likely the thermal shutoff kicking in to protect your chip. I have never noticed it kick in while the motor is actually running, but I'm supposing the thermal shutoff feature would still kick in and cause your mby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
1) 12V at probably no more than 1.5A. The driver chips are rated for 2A max. The coils on my makerbot motors are 35ohm, but I'm not sure that ohms law applies with this type of load. You adjust the current with the trim pot on the stepper driver too, so amp draw on the motors can change accordingly. 2)This is done to stop plastic oozing out of the barrel and making blobs on part outlines. My undby dazed.dnc - General
I don't think extra shells would cause cone shaped holes. Without seeing the part to know exactly what you mean, what you are describing sounds more like a shrinkage problem. What temperatures are you using? What material? If your layer thickness is not uniform throughout the print, this might cause each layer to smoosh flatter and wider, which would cause slanted edges. I'm currently thinking tby dazed.dnc - General
If a moderator doesn't move the message, you should maybe give it a week or so to see if any new replies come along before starting a new thread. Python is only needed for skeinforge. I highly recomend using skeinforge to make your Gcode instead of using the reprap host. You loose the ability to manually position and combine STLs on the build plate, but skeinforge will slice the STLs more intellby dazed.dnc - General
While I'm not familiar with this problem, I can vouch that version 20100806 of the host software will run on windows 7 64bit. Although, I'm pretty sure I'm using 32bit java and python. I don't think any of my reprap applications are actually running in 64bit mode. It has been a while since I did the install, but I distinctly remember having trouble with the makerbot back when I tried using 64bitby dazed.dnc - General
You could try using an acrylic sheet in place of the aluminum one or you could try adding a heater. You should also try lowing the starting point of your prints. If you do not start printing at roughly half of your layer thickness above the build plate, then it probably will not stick no matter what you use. If you get it too close though, the build plate will act as a plug that blocks the extruby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
I forget who, but it was from a seller on Ebay. Real kapton tape should hold up to 500F. I have only been able to test mine against 480F. I touched it to the tip of my soldering iron, which topped out at that temperature. I held it there for a few seconds and the only thing that happened was the adhesive burned away. The adhesive may have been sub-par, but I do not think the tape itself is fake.by dazed.dnc - Reprappers
When it crashes, are you trying to print? What error messages do you see or what exactly happens?by dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I lowered my extrusion temperature to 213 and started printing at almost double the speed. There still seems to be some shrinkage, but for the most part things are square now. It looks to me like the plastic will break down if you hold it at around 95 to 110C for several hours. My earlier prints had yellow and brittle bottoms, just like the plastic that oozes out of a barrel that has been heatedby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
You may have to adjust the settings for your STL to Gcode program (IE skeinforge, repsnapper, etc). You may also have to adjust the alignment of the guide rods at each axis if they are not squared up well enough. Once the software is installed and every thing is wired, you should be far enough along for a test run though.by dazed.dnc - General
For the last 6+ hours of printing, I have been using a snap together clamping mechanism to mount my extruder. It does need provisions to stop side-to-side motion, but the clamp itself works. With the amount of mass on an extruder head, plus the push/pull from dragging the filament, it might take a relatively big magnet. Given my results with a plastic snap together assembly, I would say a magnetby dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics