It seems to have something to do with zeroing out the extruded length. I have seen it lock up while printing multiple parts. Every time the last command that is sent is "G92 E0". I have about a dozen different prints that have aborted because of this bug, so I think this is a good place to start. Just at a glance, I see that G92 is not a buffered command. According to the comments, it will waitby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
If you use the host software to slice the model, then this should not be an issue. While using skeinforge though, I have found that it does not disable the insertion of M101 and M103 when enabling E codes. Since the firmware does not have a switch case for these commands, it seems to cause an error that locks up the firmware. You also need to remove comments from the Gcode once it finishes slicinby dazed.dnc - General
Using repsnapper just flat out didn't work and I prefer not to work with command line tools so I am avoiding send.py for now. When I try to print my file with repsnapper, my heated bed powers on but nothing else happens. No heat on the extruder and no motor movement. Manually moving the motors did not work either. It does seem to connect, but pretty much anything beyond that is not working.by dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I found a more up-to-date firmware that was released in october, so I started tinkering with that. I get the same results. Up to now, I have been using the latest host software, so I went back a couple of versions. I get the same results again - but it did squeak in a few more commands before locking up this time. Fortunately I'm able to tweak my settings to work on raftless prints while tryingby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have an idea for improving splodge in order to improve the reliability of starting raft less prints. I'm not sure where to find the code for the splodge script though. I assume I want to edit ...\skeinforge_application\skeinforge_plugins\craft_plugins\splodge.py? My idea is to make splodge start at a corner that is some predetermined distance away from the part. Having it start outside the paby dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
Even if it is not disabling, it should not be over heating. I recommend turning down the potentiometer so that it stays cooler. If you are using the standard 5D firmware, something to keep in mind is that many settings are broken out by motherboard type. When you change a setting, you need to look at the "if define MOTHERBOARD" lines to make sure that you are editing settings that relate to yourby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
It uses RS232 communications. Since it isn't just an on or off type of output, you would probably be better off adding your own firmware code so that M127 and M126 toggles a pin on the motherboard.Then you can use the machine codes that normally run a valve to control your tool. As far as hardware goes, you would need a mosfet or similar with a gate saturation voltage of not more than 5V. Findinby dazed.dnc - General
It looks like your infill is set very low. I have looked at repsnapper, but I never use it to slice models so I can only guess. It looks like maybe "infill distance" will change that? Maybe try setting it to the width of your extrusion? It seems to default to 2, and it looks like your infill may very well have 2mm gaps. I would also recommend adding an extra shell or two. For a stick-like part sby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Actually, it may be easier to use the extruder controler. Especially if you already have one. Driving it with the motherboard directly will require custom firmware coding in addition to custom wiring. The motor driver chips should output a full 12V if you set the speed for that "tool" to 255. As a device intended to drive motors, I would expect that it could easily handle switching the coil on aby dazed.dnc - General
Something seems to be causing my firmware to lock up while printing. If I print a gear for wade's extruder, it will print about 75% of the part. If I print the springs I designed for it, it will print about half of each spring. Both of these parts print just fine with the makerbot and replicatorG, so I do not believe this is a problem with slicing the model. It almost seems like the buffer fillsby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I almost forgot about this thread. I found the problem. I'm running a RAMPS kit, which has one arduino performing all the control logic. There is a setting in the firmware for it that controls how many cycles it takes before the temperature management functions are run. Back then, I think it was set to run every 1000 or 2000 cycles. I found that setting it to 750 helped substantially. Setting iby dazed.dnc - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
There should be a potentiometer on your extruder controler. Unless you are using G-codes to set pwm, you need to adjust the potentiometer so that the motor and chips stay cool without loosing too much torque. They should run at a little more than room temperature. Running a stepper motor off the extruder controler does tend to be more noisy than using an actual stepper driver. I prefer to use a fby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Have you hooked up your z-axis minimum endstop? If it is not connected, the motor will not move in one direction. If you keep moving it in the working direction, you will reach the maximum travel limit (this is a hard-coded number of millimeters unless you have enabled maximum endstops) and you will get no movement in either direction until you reset the motherboard.by dazed.dnc - General
Most of the plastic I have printed with is 3D ink's white abs. The black ABS and white HDPE were too large to push through my barrel, but I got a refund without hassle and he has been working on fixing the filament dimensions. I received a sample of the new black ABS and it worked great. The new stuff should be available for purchase soon if it isn't already. I don't know if he is also going to cby dazed.dnc - General
Look in configuration.h. You should find something like this: #define B_TEMP_PID_PGAIN 2.0 #define B_TEMP_PID_IGAIN 0.07 #define B_TEMP_PID_DGAIN 1.0 #define B_TEMP_PID_BAND 0 These are the PID settings I have. There are a number of motherboard and slave configurations, I don't think all features are supported on all platforms. You have to check the "#if MOTHERBOARD" lines to make sure you areby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I'm using barrels from reifsnyderb and I measure the ID to be 3.03mm. Presently, I am using filament that is out of round. The smallest OD is 2.74mm and the largest is 3.03mm. This seems to be about the limit of how much variation is usable for this size barrel. I have gotten it to work, but it was pretty difficult to get things set right. Based on comparing this stuff with makerbot and ultimacby dazed.dnc - General
I'm not sure what their policy is with the samples, but I think they send more samples if your order is within a certain dollar range. So, for example a $15 order might get one sample while a $60 order might get two. If you want to buy a a variety pack of short coils instead of full one pound rolls, you can always ask for a special arrangement. They typically respond to questions within three toby dazed.dnc - General
I have yet to try the PLA, but I have several samples of multiple colors and I agree. They are all very round and fit smoothly in a standard barrel. I even have two large spools and they look just as good as the samples. I haven't tried them because I'm in the beginning stages of getting my reprap running and I want to stick with a material that I'm more familiar with until other things are sorteby dazed.dnc - General
That looks like PLA? My only hands-on experience to date is printing with ABS, but the basic principles are likely the same. From what I gather, PLA just extrudes more readily and does not warp as much. Its tough to say from these pictures, but I think the first and second pic demonstrate skipped steps. It looks like the extruder snagged on plastic and the motors did not have enough torque to puby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
On my mendel, I just have two nuts jammed against one another above the z-axis bearing. It doesn't loosen, but I can't tip it upside down without the belt coming off after one of the lead screws drops an inch. I'm starting to think I should have done it a bit different. You might want to try using two nuts on each end of the z-axis bearing. It might work a little better if you loosely trap the bby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
For some reason, my firmware locks up just after recieving a G1 move command somewhere in the middle of printing my part. It generally gets about 20 layers in then stops moving. The heaters will either get stuck in an on or off state. I do not see any more activity in the host software console either. So far, here are the details I have been able to collect: 1) Printing the same file twice resulby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I wasn't able to find a picture of this, but I think the indentations in your filament should be the approximate inverse of the indentations on your hobbed bolt. So, if the teeth on your bolt are 0.5mm tall then you should probably have a 0.4mm dent in your filament. I use an M6 hobbed bolt, so the teeth on mine are likely different than yours. Even if I could get my camera to capture the teeth mby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I think posting links is accepted. Especially since it would help us see what you are talking about. I'm fighting with jams myself. I'll think I got it fixed, then 20 or 30 minutes into a build the filament strips. When starting a build, I start with the filament in the barrel. If I were to turn the gear and it were hot, I would instantly get an extrusion. I think you have to do it this way soby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I just saw the questions on PID as I was trying to figure out how you got away with using PTFE and no support. Normally the tips push out as the threads soften or it bulges and you get a leak between the PTFE and brass. Anyhow... you will waste some time performing needless calculations, but otherwise it ends up being exactly the same. After calculating the integral and derivative terms, the firby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Yeah, Nophead is right. If it de-laminated the board, it probably got too hot, but you say the nearby LED didn't fry. On the off chance that the chip is still good, I was thinking maybe the communication pins didn't get soldered well enough. I have never burned the boot loader. Is there some kind of acknowledgment message that would indicate something along the lines of "a chip was found, butby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Are you sure the solder joints are all good? I have never done work with 18+ pin SMDs, but on some SMD voltage regulators and caps I have seen bubbles of excessive flux cause bad joints. If the flux doesn't just burn away, it might look like a good solder joint but it isn't. In fact, this is what caused the power LED on my motherboard to not work. This is pretty rare though if there is enough solby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Far as I know, you can't print straight onto the aluminum. You need to coat it with tape. Some people use blue painters tape, but I have much better luck with Kapton on my heated build plate. Maybe the painters tape works better for unheated beds? If you don't run it as a heated bed, you could even remove the aluminum and replace it with an acrylic sheet from home depot or a hobby store. Your paby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I can't really put a number to it, but if you use stepper motors that have a higher torque (IE nema 23 size motors instead of nema 17) you could increase the limit. Reprap firmware normally uses accelerated movements, which will help overcome the problem by slowly changing direction instead of jerking things back and forth. Theoretically, you could also adjust your printer's speed to suit the chby dazed.dnc - General
I actually tried this with one I got from a local walmart several months ago. It had two heaters, but it looked very much like the one you are showing. What I found was that the heating element was encased in cement, which was attached to a very heavy iron plate. Much too heavy for sensible use on the reprap. I did find some really thin, fairly light heaters on ebay though. Apparently they wereby dazed.dnc - General
As you spin the Z axis, watch the top of the lead screws to see if they wobble. A minor wobble should not hurt much, but if the top is off center by maybe more than an 1/8 inch (guessing here) then this is probably too much slop. If you see that, then your lead screws might be bent. The easiest way to check that is to roll the screw on a surface that you know is flat. If you see light between theby dazed.dnc - Reprappers