So I see you forayed into the thread in general. I'm guessing however that my point view on the matter would be worthless. According to Spacexula “no one who knows what they are doing has built a sells Mendel in over a year also. RepRap has shown no ability to kill old designs, I have had people show up in the IRC trying to get help putting together Darwins ” And he should know because he is aby Bruce - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Orcytolagus cuniculi Cute analogy. Feels more to me of late like autumn leaves on a breezy day, they seem so colourful and they make such a rustle as they pass on by, but then they fade from earshot, and with another gust, comes another bunch to catch your view....... Meanwhile the trunk from which they sprang grows cold and dormant......... or so it seems. So, Glenn and Spacexula, I noticed thby Bruce - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Looks like you've learned a lot already How not set up your machine How not to print a wades block How not to adjust your bed How not to setup a slicing program How not to set your temperature How not to buy parts off Ebay without a good accompanying closeup picture. That's disgusting. Can you send that puppy back?by Bruce - General Mendel Topics
QuoteWhy should the Selis Mendel described as mostly obsolete The wording is actually “mostly out of date” And I think..... at least I hope he was referring to the Mendel depicted in the build manual which is waaaay out of date compared to the Mendel's of today, and incomplete, and politely put: Not the most comprehensive or user friendly thing that I've ever tried to follow...... Maybe this isby Bruce - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Nathaniel, QuoteI guess I'll try the 1.75mm then if that's better resolution. That's a common misconception. What Joe was trying to tell you in his Ps. is that the hole in the tip where the melted plastic comes out is what dictates the printing resolution not the size of the filament going in. Also, I don't think anybody has mentioned yet that 1.75mm filament has to be fed 3 times faster intoby Bruce - Reprappers
Huxley........... For a first time build I think you will have a much better chance for success building a Prusa. Canada is completely metric ???????......... Not Ontario. Metric hardware is only sold in specialty racks where I live. M8 rod is three times the price of 5/16”. Cast parts?????? If you are in Quebec, I can sell you a nice set of Mendel printed parts including a very good hobbedby Bruce - Reprappers
As long as it's working, I would print as much as I could. I didn't want to comment on the quality of the parts, but by the look of the extruder block, I would say the rest of the parts would probably break fairly easily. If you have problems finding springs you can also use thick rubber washers. I took the rubber seals from some old roofing screws that I just happened to have. They work great.by Bruce - Reprappers
Extruder motors can run very hot without having issues. Our extruder motors all run between 65 and 75 degrees quite happily. PLA extruder blocks on the other hand, don't like it that much. Before you go cranking up the power too much, you have some mechanical issues that should be resolved. First and foremost, The big gear is backwards on the bolt. It should be mounted like this. Alternate Hobby Bruce - Reprappers
QuoteBTW, Bruce, that unidentifiable "whitish thing" is probably from these guys Cute pooch's....... Laying there so contentedly, while you get frustrated out of your mind because your prints won't stick!!!!! Anyway..... I noticed some inconsistencies in the amount of fill that's being laid down. Maybe a bit of filament slip??? But even so, it still should have stuck. Since all the gby Bruce - Reprappers
I print on Kaptan covered aluminum at 65 degrees. I just finished printing 21 sets of Prusa bushings without a miss. Apart from temperature I use exactly the same settings that I use for ABS. When switching from ABS to PLA, if I don't scrub the Kaptan with ABS cleaner and then a dry paper towel, and I mean REALLY scrub, it won't stick at all. Leads me to wonder if maybe your cleaner or applicatorby Bruce - Reprappers
Sweet Now on to the next nightmare, Skeinforge settings >< Once you get on to it though, it's a pretty effective tool.by Bruce - Skeinforge
We haven't really got that far into it....... yet. We currently buy our bearings from VXB in California, they also sell a bearing kit with rods for $79, but I just buy 5/16” rod at Canadian Tire and cut it myself, it works fine. We have well over a thousand hours on one machine with no significant wear. Same thing for the threaded rod 5/16” fit right in. For Huxley you can replace the M6 rods witby Bruce - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Shot in the dark. Try deleting your .skeinforge fileby Bruce - Skeinforge
If you are interested. I just replaced a v2.3 stepper motor with a Pololu. It still works fine, I just needed more steps.by Bruce - General
..... If it looks like this it should workby Bruce - Skeinforge
The motor doesn't need filament or or hot end to turn run. If you have a host software installed you can jog it through the control panel. It might sound a little rattly though.by Bruce - General Mendel Topics
I wouldn't have problems printing those pieces in ABS. Just curious, why not Reprap the cross member as well?by Bruce - General Mendel Topics
I just downloaded that today. Thinkin maybe I'll just leave that puppy zipped up on my desktop til you get it sorted outby Bruce - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Did you change the port setting on your computer as well?by Bruce - Firmware - mainstream and related support
mlagana, If you are interested...... I tried M3 and M4 taps at a number of different depths of cut. Inevitably, I'd be out in my workshop trying to focus on the job at hand and Jeremy “who was running the printer at the time” would walk in with that ever mournful look on his face saying “Slipped again”. One day I got frustrated to the point where I said: FINE, followed by some very colourful adjeby Bruce - Reprappers
nophead, That print was done at 72 mm/s fill and 54 mm/s outline, however, we have printed at various speeds on three different machines and got similar results. I went and dug through a bag of old parts and found a few that were printed on our old Makerbot. If I remember correctly, they were printed at 24/18, they have marks too but not nearly as well defined, more like small subtle bulges. Theby Bruce - Reprappers
So..... There you have it in a nut shell. I set Retraction to 24 to get @ .75 and Extra distance to 0 and it looks about the same, possibly a little bigger. To be honest, with all the different settings that we've tried over the past few months speed included, nothing seems to make much difference. Using -2 does leave a bit of a dip but it seems to drag a little bit of the blurb with it, makby Bruce - Reprappers
The -2 is an attempt to minimize the little splurch that comes out at the beginning of a line. Too tired tonight it's 1 AM here, I'll post a picture tomorrow. You can set it to 0.by Bruce - Reprappers
Skeinforge settings. Here's what I'm using Retraction speed: I run at 1000, I tried 1200 but that got a little sketchy so I dialed it back. I'm currently using layer height of .33 with retraction set to 35. That changes with layer height of course. Restart extra distance set to -2, which still doesn't get rid of the restart nubs but it helps a bit. Doesn't work well with tiny prints though. Too mby Bruce - Reprappers
You can still use the second board, you just have to change the pin definitions in the extruder firmware so you can use a different mosfet to power the hot end. If you open your extruder firmware and look in the configuration.h file (down near the bottom) you will see this // MOSFET drivers #define BED_OUTPUT 15 #define FAN_OUTPUT 11 #define HEATER_OUTPUT 12 Change it to this (if you don'tby Bruce - General Mendel Topics
Please read the following before judging the print I have only been at this for a few months and I am not very well versed in Skeinforge settings yet. This is the first time I've printed a part using support and I seem to have overdone it bit. The mesh is probably double what it needs to be..... made it rather hard to remove and leaving it looking a little ragged. Given a little time it couldby Bruce - Reprappers
I think sometimes the photos are intentionally blurry. Sometimes you can save the picture to your computer and then open with an image viewer to get an expanded view. We do sell RP parts by the way http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?175,66359,66359#msg-66359 However if you and MrAnderson manage to get together on the classroom printer you could print your own set.by Bruce - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
I had one of those steam engines in the sixties,,,, guess that dates me. For educational purposes eh. I just so happen to have a number of Mendel parts that aren't quite up to sales quality, they are still quite serviceable though. If you don't mind parts in several different colours, I’m sure that I could convince the guys to donate a set to your endeavor. Suppose you could paint them. If you'by Bruce - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
If you could afford to take the time to drive on down you could see the machines operating. A picture says a thousand words, but to see it live makes it all come clear.by Bruce - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Good grief 6 posts on the user group in one day. That must be a record. I have 3 Mendels running.... I should say we, there are three of us. We're in St. Catharines though so that would be a bit of a driveby Bruce - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group