Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Rich, > > I put in for the double extruder pre-made. Any > chance your quick fit x-Carriage could get an > adapter to carry one ore two of these extruders? > > I think it would be akin to carrying the same > extruder as attached to the Replicator. That was my thinking also, I think thisby richrap - General
That's great news - Looking forward to the next Slic3r Releaseby richrap - General
Well done Greg, that truly is a wonderful print. I'll have to try the new High-res version. We really did have a fantastic set of prints this week can't wait for the next challenge...by richrap - Competitions
I have a simple guide - How to calibrate your extruder on my blog.by richrap - Reprappers
I had a recent bout of blocking in my J-head, but it was contaminants in the Plastic - if you think you have a blockage, push up a pin while applying pressure to the filament while its at temperature, if material starts to come out, then you probably have something blocking the nozzle inside. - just check it's not ball bearings! - http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc-daby richrap - Reprappers
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Red PLA needs 62 degrees C for some reason > > I am printing red with a bed at 55C. Nothing very > big so far though. There seems to be very little > correlation between posts in this forum when it > comes to what sticks to what at what temperature. Agreed, maybe if we all printed the same model with caliby richrap - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Having said that, PLA from Fabberdashery doesn't > seem to need the high first layer temperature. It > is very different from natural PLA I have had from > the US and NZ. That does seem to be the case, I don't ever use a higher first temperature, same for the whole print - normally just 55 degrees, some are ok aby richrap - General
richgain Wrote: -------------------------------------------------- > > Anyway, thank you for the prompt I needed to > finally start getting my head around OpenSCAD - > it's long overdue. > I have written a simple script that takes the > intersection of a parametric sphere and each of > the two regenerated 48mm cube .stl files. > Unzip the contents and be sure to keep theby richrap - Competitions
ttsalo Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > The 300°C I was using is really the minimum for > getting a good print. I would have to lower the > temperature just for the bridge... anyway, > bridging was so bad that I suspected a bug in > Slic3r, but since it's working for ABS more or > less like before, it's probably just because of > the material.by richrap - Slic3r
You can easily have the heated bed too hot for PLA, nothing will stick at 90 degrees C I usually find that some colours may not stick at 60 - 65 degrees, but if I lower the temp to 55 or even 45 degrees they stick just fine. I usually start with 60 and work my way down, not up. Also try glass cleaner with Vinegar, seems to always work for me, If I use 'Astonish'Glass and tile cleaner, nothingby richrap - General
richgain Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > And here are the two higher-res parts generated by > that script (I've exported two parts separately so > you can place them where you like or print them > separately). I processed the script and printed the output, looks good, but still getting some very fine banding, I'll try Greg's new version tonight. I doby richrap - Competitions
Hello everyone, Have a great time at the weekend, sorry I can't make it, but It's my daughters birthday party. But I do have a venue we can use in Stroud for any weekend in July - I have been watching the dates flying in, so I wanted to add an event and attempt to fit-in with the dates already taken, maybe I should send over the details to Hamish if that's ok, and you can discuss a suitable dby richrap - West of England RUG
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you make the cylinder say 1L then you could > extrude about 1kg in one cycle and that would make > a reasonable amount to use on a printer. So unless > you want a continuous cycle to be able to make > enough to sell you don't need the complexity of a > multi-stroke machine. Just a heated cylinder and a &by richrap - General
Greg Frost Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > richgain: I just downloaded your zip and looked at > your version of the model, and it looks like you > have reduced the poly count. The original model > was much smoother. I was using the Richgain version, I wonder if the reduced poly count is the cause of my ripples? > An openscad version of the modelby richrap - Competitions
Greg Frost Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You have an interesting ripple on your prints. Do > you use T5 belts that cause that ripple? or is > that a speed artefact ringing as it turns > corners?? > > Nice use of colour by the way! Hi Greg, I was just trying to work that out, I have not really noticed it in other prints so I'm thinking of thiby richrap - Competitions
Printer working again - so Here is my Entry for this week's competition - and I love this object/puzzle, thanks for designing it. ; generated by Slic3r 0.8.3 on 2012-06-19 at 19:09:57 ; layer_height = 0.3 ; perimeters = 4 ; solid_layers = 2 ; fill_density = 0.12 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.40 ; filament_diameter = 2.86 ; extrusion_multiplier = 1 ; perimeter_speed = 60 ; infill_speed = 60 ; travel_speby richrap - Competitions
richgain Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've applied for a table at the Manchester > Mini-Maker Faire in July and, if we get one, > nophead and I will be demonstrating Mendel90s and > the Huxley with lots of live printing. That's excellent news, I hope you get a space and it all goes well.by richrap - Competitions
That's a good one! I'm downloading it now...by richrap - Competitions
Congratualtions richgain, That is a very good print, and nice to see it done on a Huxley. Is the Mendel90 printing that well yet?by richrap - Competitions
Good Job, that's a very nice print.by richrap - Competitions
Thanks, I warmed it up and it's setting now, it looks like it's going to set hard like glass.by richrap - General
I also saw a replicator operating last month, and it was not doing a great job of handling either one or two extruder's, but I expect that was down to the way it had been setup. I was also rather shocked how slow it was printing, especially the first layer, that was going at about 5mm/sec. Maybe printing reasonably fast and drop the temperature of the non printing extruder back by ~20 degrees, yby richrap - General
I decided to go for the dual kit with resistors a few days back, it looks like the MK7/8 so should work ok, I'm not a fan of direct drive, but it's quite a nice setup for dual extrusion and very reasonable cost, it's looks like they are doing very well with the campaign, so should be able to get these machined nicely.by richrap - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I glue them in with glass rope glue and then heat > it very slowly the first time, otherwise it tends > to blister. It can be removed if necessary. > I tried some glass rope adhesive (black and very runny) but it's been drying for over a week and is still tacky, do you need to heat it up to cure it? or do I haveby richrap - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Where do you buy your mirror glass from? The best ones I have used and now have a stock of are from Ikea, they are called SORLI and are in a pack of 4 for about £5 They have nice rounded corners and are 4mm thick, perfect fit on a Prusa heated bed, and I have not snapped one yet, where as I have snapped a few of the 2mmby richrap - General
Use 3mm or 4mm Mirror-glass (a mirror) for PLA, clean it with 'window cleaner with vinegar' NOT IPA or Acetone. - 45 to 65 degrees C Use 3mm or 4mm Mirror-glass covered with PET Tape for ABS - 95 degrees C or hotter Try to use Bull-dog clips to secure the glass to the heated bed, or Kapton/PET tape if not.by richrap - General
It's fixed in the new release - 0.8.3by richrap - Slic3r
ttsalo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > as soon as the warping > forces exceed the grip, the object will rip the > brim off the build plate and warp. Like this: > What part are you printing, it does not look like it should be warping from that photo, I would like to give it a try on heated mirror-glass. Just checking you are printing in PLA? and ontoby richrap - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am not sure what the best glue for PLA is. UHU glue works really well for PLA. Gorilla Glue also works well for big parts. Super glue is not great as it leaves white residue.by richrap - General
Thank you KP, that's great, thanks for the links and info, it's a nice design and it would be great to see some Portabees popping up. Cheers, Rich.by richrap - General