So I was lucky enough to come across a CTC replicator clone on Facebook for free, yes free. At very least I thought I could strip it down for parts for another project. But when I got it home I though why not see if I could bring it back to life, after all I have just upgraded my kossel delta with Klipper and the results were fantastic. So the plan; get the thing printing and get a baseline printby scottybfg - General
Yeah, I never did like the MK8 design or mounting options. Most of the time you mount it to a thin bracket that has no support and will flex during moment due to the weight of the stepper resulting in shit quality prints. Then there is the hotend that ships with it. No real heat sink on the throat and just a bad design overall. (reminds me of the early home built hotends). If you want to run ofby scottybfg - General
Oh that sucks about the buildyourownsla forums. I never signed up, just looked through to see if I wanted to build one a few years back. Id say post away, you will find the people who are active and can give advice. And who knows this might give me the kick to build one myself, or at least add it to my list of half finished projects / hobbiesby scottybfg - General
Would agree with the above statement. If you want something that's 100% based on resin check out the SLS/SLA forums, there is a few of them around there is also a google group on DLP printers but it can be hard to follow sometimes.by scottybfg - General
Im guessing the 12/24V is referencing the heater cartridge. You can see what was sent to you by testing the resistance. Most common cartridges are 40W so; 40w 24v heater is (24*24/40) = 14.4ohms 40w 12v heater is (12*12/40) = 3.6ohms You want the cartridge to match the supply voltage. A 24V run off 12V will take ages to heat up.by scottybfg - General
The filabot is nice but there is also the filastruder and meany other pellet extrudes on the market. These are good when using commercial pellets are the particle size is controlled. When trying to recycle filament you need to get a consistent particle size or you will clog the extruder or have air gaps that will affect your prints. Also when using these you cant go 100% recycled filament, somewhby scottybfg - General
Good pick Dust, I just saw Nema17 and read on without checking the model number. I'm starting to think if they even have enough toque as are only rated to 12N.cm. I think the weight of each axis will really come into playby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Your numbers look ok, with slipping like that I would normally expect the feedrate to be too high. Before you put the belts on did the carriages (for X and Y) move smoothly? Was their any binding? (I dont think this is the cause but is always good to check first as its easy to fix). Also check the tension on the belts. I think your problem might be with the current on the A4988. They have an aby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
The first layer in 3D printing is the most important, and can take some time to get right, but is well worth the effort in the end. Now to why its not sticking. First thing to check is that the bed is level with the nozzle, this means that the nozzle is the same distance from the bed in all corners and the centre. Sadly most 3D printers are designed with 4 point levelling that will just warp theby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I just took the settings you posted early on and changed to what you said you had now. change your: DEFAULT_ACCELERATION from 75 back to 1000 and #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {3000,75,100,10000} that will cap the Y axis to 75 without affecting the Xby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 410.6, 410.6, 837.00} // default steps per unit for ***** MakiBox A6 ***** #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {60, 40, 20, 45} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000,75,30,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
What value is your jerk? In this case Jerk is not the kinematic term for change in acceleration, reprap-jerk is the maximum change in speed in mm/sec that can be changed in the interval between two segments, so if its too low you might get a slight hesitation when starting and ending a move, as it needs to be at a lower speed to change the direction. the default is set to 20by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
You can always add your own supports to the CAD file then you get them where you want. But I would play around with the SLic3r setting if you dont want to move to a new slicer, I find it not too bad in most cases with the pillars support, overhang threshold 0 2.5mm spacing, Interference layer 1 pattern angle 0 but have a play aroundby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
with the lead screws you cant move as fast. when changing from belt to lead-screw there are a few things you need to change 1) axis steps - this should be the calculated value (an online calculate has been posted here a few times) once you have this number it does not need to be changed. If its the same leadscrew as your z then 400 steps/mm sounds right 2) feed rate - Start with 20 mm/sec as tby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Just going to jump in here and clear up a few terms. Pitch and lead are often used interchangeably but sadly this is not the case, this is only true for single starts like the threaded builders rod the early repraps were made from. Now we have jumped to using leadscrews but still use the word pitch. It would be great if the prusa calculate was updated to stop this confusion. So just to clear thiby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Again without knowing what you changed in the z probe section its hard to help. Have you been through the marlin 1.1 wiki? some really good information there and some good instructions on how to setup the bed levelling I would suggest starting with a copy of your known working firmware without bed levelling then follow the steps in the wiki for the servo z probeby scottybfg - General
Just because you cant attach the file doesn't mean you are out of luck, just means you need to type more information (A pain I know) What bed levelling system are you using? What firmware are you using? What did you change in the firmware file? (i.e. I uncommented #define BLTOUCH) Silly question but did you try good old google? does this question from last year help you?by scottybfg - General
You could look at PVA filament, its water soluble but depending on where you are it can get expensive. If you can get acetone cheap, you could always print a shell out of ABS then fill with acetone to dissolve it into a slurry that could be poured out. You would need an air tight cap to stop the acetone from evaporating, as some time, depending on the size of the cast it might take some time toby scottybfg - General
Thanks for your help and sorry for the late reply, I travel too much with work and get to spend next to no time with my printer. Nothing was connected to the board, so i removed the SD card and the issue went away. So I formatted the SD and re uploaded the files and looks good for now. Thanks again for your help, I dont know why I didn't try removing the SD card, I guess the price tag of the bby scottybfg - Duet
If its printing to fast they reduce the infill speed in slic3r (http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/speed) And perimeters are the number of outside shells before the infill. Have a look around, a few people have done experiments and found that an increase of perimeters made a stronger part then solid infill. In saying that a lot depends on where the forces are coming from, FDM creates a lot ofby scottybfg - Printing
A lot of people have been posting this error lately and I dont know why. What printer did you buy? And where did you get the firmware file? This happens when trying to configure an old version of the marlin firmware with a new version of the arduino software. You have a few options on how to solve this issue. First I would recommend downloading the latest version of marlin just make sure yoby scottybfg - General
From the LCD menu got to control > Init EEPROM This should load the default and save to the EEPROM by sending the M502 and M500by scottybfg - General
Just set the infill to 100%. for a strong part I would also looking at increasing the number of perimeter to 5 or 6by scottybfg - Printing
Thanks for the links, always good to see what you have tried. My guess would be that the old values are still stored in the EPROM and are overriding your changes. Try M502 to load the new values from the firmware then M500 to saveby scottybfg - General
PLA on heated glass realy gives a nice surface finish, well worth the time of getting that first layer height right. When you move on to ABS a sheet of PET works wonders, but if you want to be really cheap ABS juice is a good solution, about 1mm of ABS per 10ml of acetone, apply a thin layer when cold, never had an issueby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Its hard to diagnose the problem when the only description is "a mess" Like say say, a picture is worth a thousand words. As for printing the skirt away from the print im not sure if you can do that, but one thing you can do ass add a nozzle prime in the start g-code, this will push plastic through the hotend before moving from the home position, this will also mean you can reduce your skirts tby scottybfg - Printing
I think you are confusing the tension screw with the grub screw of the drive gear. The image posted should help you even if your extruder looks differentby scottybfg - Reprappers
I dont know why you keep making posts for the same question, or jump in on some one else question to bring up your own. It seems to be one step forward then 20 back, I have given you help with print quality now we are back to firmware issues. Did you not keep a working copy of your firmware? Also you seem reluctant to use google or read or try and troubleshoot your own problems. Yes we all like aby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Every USB port on my computer has the same result. Powered with 12 volts and still get the constant disconnect sound, There is a jumper on the 5V_EN pins. With the 12V supply the blue Vin LED lights up and the two red leds by the PMW fans flash one after the otherby scottybfg - Duet
The U8glib Library you downloaded does it have the u8g.h if a folder called clib by change? if so just change the code from #include utility/u8g.h to #include clib/u8g.h The older version of the U8glib Library used the folder utility but when it moved to the gibhub it was changed to clib. Have a look and see what folder its in. If it is in a folder utility then maybe you added the libraryby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants