The E step calculation is based on how much is fed into the extruder, not what comes out of the nozzleby scottybfg - General
When you say changed heatbed to 0 do you mean you changed it to 0C, because thats a bad idea. All you really need to do is tell the slicing software that you have no heatbed and it wont heat it. Setting it to 0C will cause all sorts of issues. Reset the EPROM like suggested above and change your repitear printer configuration back to normalby scottybfg - General
So never owning a makerbot style printer I'm new to all this but after doing some reading I found this, "With X3G-consuming printers, the steps per mm is done during the X3G generation, and all the movements in the X3G are expressed in terms of steps rather than mm" So I'm guessing you're using the ReplicatorG software to send g-code and controlling the printer, this is where the steps /mm neby scottybfg - General
QuoteOrigamib I suggest you choose one to be the primary nozzle that is only used on the first layer (raft if necessary) and the other 3 have an ever so slightly higher Z height to avoid dragging through layers. Invest in some accurate shims. Really? That just makes the other 3 nozzles inaccurate and you will have issues with splitting layers when you change between the "primary" and other. Noby scottybfg - Reprappers
That is an odd extrusion issue, there is no difference between the printer printing and not printing, its the same code that gets sent through, the only way it could be affected is if one was using relative e distances and the other using absolute. How do you know its affecting the print? Yes have the spring less tension would cause the gear to bite into the fillament less, too lose and the fillby scottybfg - General
Calibration guide Print quality troubleshooting Yes the link is to simplify3d but you dont need the softwear to use the guide, gives really good advice with pitchers to help identify what problems you haveby scottybfg - Reprappers
It all depends if the filament is slipping or if the stepper is not turning and making a clicking noise. From the information given, I would say you have too much tension, not helped by the fact that the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the stepper does not have enough torque to force the filament through. Getting the right tension takes some time and trial, seeing what affect more / less tensby scottybfg - General
The X gantry only needs to be level with the bed, the best way to do this is to adjust the bed height so that there is some slight friction between a sheet of paper and the nozzle / bed at each corner. Good video on how to do this (link: ) second, it looks like your printer is a makerbot replicator clone, the original replicator had issues with the extruder and I cant imagine the clone being anyby scottybfg - General
A pitcher of the extruder at this point would be helpful. The X gantry is the rail that the extruder moves across. I would try printing at a higher first layer height and see what happens just increase it by 0.05mm or 0.1mm. This can be changed in the slicing software so it wont affect your setup and can be changed back after the test.by scottybfg - General
There are 2 types of extruder, you have a direct feed - sits on top of the hotend, then you have a bowden that sits off the x carriage and feeds the filament via a tube. On your extruder there should be a (or a few depending on the design) spring that is tighted by a screw, this is what apply tension to the idler. The idler pushes the filament into the drive gear that allows it to be fed throughby scottybfg - General
This problem has nothing to do with the steps per mm, this should be calculated then set. small adjustments can be made in the slicing software. You dont mention what type of extruder you have, so it makes it hard to give suggestions. But from what you have described I would recommend reducing the tension on the idler wheel. My thinking behind this is at higher speeds you are getting enough torby scottybfg - General
Without looking at your printer I would recommend dropping the; DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION from 4000 to 2000 DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 to 1500 (really depends on extruder type) DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 to 1500 DEFAULT_XYJERK 40.0 to 20.0 Looking at your old posts, you were close to really good prints, so this should give you some hope that you have not beenby scottybfg - Printing
how are you calibrating your printer? It can be a repetative process but once its done you wont need to be it again. It also helps you learn what setting affect the print. There is a great guide on the reprap wiki, I would recommend starting there (Link: ). Also have a look at your firmware file and report back you speed and acceleration settings as well as the jerk settings. For some unknown rby scottybfg - Printing
What controll board are you using? I'm too lazy to open you confing.h to find out. If its one where you can swap the stepper drivers, swap the drivers for the two extrudes. Does the issue stay with the same motor or does it move to the other one. If it changes then its more than likely the the current on the two stepper drivers is set differently, you a volt meter and adjust the currents. If theby scottybfg - Mechanics
I would say the below points are key for achieving and keeping a level bed. A solid and square frame, x axis designed not to sag with the weight of the extruder and hotend setup when in the middle, Good Y carriage design with a proper 3 point levelling, none of this 4 point each corner shit. The addition of a probe should be used just to fine tune the result and account for slight miss alignby scottybfg - Reprappers
Looks like over extrusion on what you do print, Follow this calibration guide to fix that (Link: ) As for the stopping you have a cheap hotend clone, these are known for clogging and jamming. Make sure there is a fan on the heat-sink part of the hotend and maybe try printing at lower speeds. Google "cheap hotend clone issues" to find more solutions to your problem, a lot of people use them andby scottybfg - Printing
Sounds like you have a short somewhere, if there are burn marks on the board then I dont have high hopes for it working again. Few things to test for, with the burn marks above pin 4 your short might be in this area. Also you may have installed the DRV8825's backwards, easy to do as they have a different layout to the common A4988's, look at the pin outs and make sure you line ground up with thby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
+1 For extra perimeters for strength and reduction of timeby scottybfg - General
Really think about the questions the dentist asked. Larger printers sound cool, but they are a lot of hassle just to have the print space you might not use. With larger prints come longer printing times, even if you use a hotend that can really pump out the plastic like the volcano, you would still be looking at days to print something that large. Also keeping the nozzle level with the bed wilby scottybfg - General
Mirrored prints are usually an issue with the homing position. When the printer is homed and looking at it from the front (for reference) the X axis should be all the way to the left, and the Y axis (print bed) should be all the way to the rear of the printer meaning the hotend should be on the front left corner of the print bed.by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
How are your bearings fixed? And how meany bearings are you running? Normally for linear motion the bearings on one rail are fixed (tight, cant move, ect) while the bearings on the other rail are floating (have a bit of play). This helps to account for any small changes in the distance between the roads. If all your bearings are tight, and your rods are not 100% parallel (Trust me they never wiby scottybfg - Reprappers
QuoteShen The program already reads all relevant commands from the gcode. What you need to fill in is the max speed, acceleration and jerk settings of your printer, I don't think those are a part of the slic3r or cura configuration file. If you are controlling the acceleration inside the slicer, the acceleration change will be done by gcode commands, those command will be captured and process byby scottybfg - General
To me it looks like an overhang issue. Do you have a cooling fan? Overhangs can be tricky to get correctby scottybfg - Printing
QuoteLoboCNC I've had the same set of neoprene/glass MXL belts driving the spindle (1000-3000 RPM) of a homemade milling machine for about 15 years. I don't worry much about belts wearing out. I would have to agree with this statement, Unless you are printing 24/7 with some massive loads on your carriages I dont think you would need to worry too much about the belts (as long as they are installby scottybfg - General
Have you tried different slicers? or maybe a different control board? Focusing on the printer might lead you down the wrong path, It sounds like you have a good build, apart from the 2 Z motors but that's just personal preference. A different slicer might give you better or worse results. Or a better control board might fix the issue, Yes the RAMPS is great and you are getting some great printby scottybfg - Printing
Sounds like you just have setup issues. Have a read about setting up cura or watch some videos on youtube. Your first 3D printer can be very exciting and its easy to rush into it, but take your time, read and set everything up correctly and you wont have as meany little issues. I personally use repetier host to control the printer and slic3r for the generating the G code. The good thing about reby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Some E-step fine tuning will fix this issueby scottybfg - Reprappers
Quotecozmicray What kind of drive? How many moving hours on belts? Yeah good points, Its not something I keep on hand (I guessing most people dont). My recommendations above are based on light usage, maybe 15 printing hours a week, with my longest prints an average of 6 to 8 hours. I always give the printer a quick once over before a print and dont really have any preventative maintenance plby scottybfg - General
Ok mate, In another post you say your D8 and D9 pins are faulty so could it be that????? Lets try and keep related posts all together, dont go making a new post day or so as its not the best way to get help. Maybe bump your old post with what you have tried. We cant help you if you dont help us, there is no such thing as too much information when trying to diagnose a problem. Anyway, I'm hereby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Follow this guide, will get you printing (Link: ) Dont skip any steps, ask questions if neededby scottybfg - Printing