Ah, looks like you are all over itby scottybfg - Reprappers
The numbers look ok, there is no real ideal for the movement settings, it depend on the setup, how ridged the frame is and how well the machine is put together. Once you find numbers that work keep them, or slowly push them up to find your machine max. As for the EEPROM, there could have been a setting in there that was overriding what you had set in marlin. What is your steeper current probleby scottybfg - Reprappers
It could be a feedrate issue, When homing or making movements in pronterface, the feedrate used is the one displayed one screen, should be two, one for x,y and one for z in mm/s When printing the firmware controls the feedrate, if this is set too high, the the motors will buzz / grind and not move. Open up you firmware file and change the max feedrate, in marlin its #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATEby scottybfg - Reprappers
What bed material are you tying to print on? Glass, blue tape, PEI? Also is your bed clean? Even oils from your skin can affect a print from sticking. Trying cleaning the bed with an isopropyl alcohol to remove any oils or dirt. You should also clean any ABS off the nozzle, ABS like to stick to ABS so clean the nozzle with some acetone to remove any plastic that stuck on You could also try a lby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi there, maybe post a picture so we can see whats going on. Also simplify3D has a great troubleshooting guide, even if you don't use the software is a good starting point for most common issues.by scottybfg - Printing
I would say it could be firmware related. What firmware and control board are you using? Also have a watch of this, jump to about 3 1/2 minuets in try adding the code. This is for the full graphic but should work for the discount as well if typed under the discount section in the firmwareby scottybfg - Reprappers
In config.h its under "MOVEMENT SETTINGS" #define HOMING_FEEDRATE and yes if you have 1/32 micro stepping and used 1/16 in your calculation that wold affect the movement, if you post a pic of the driver someone here should be able to identify it for youby scottybfg - Printing
Quote10k When watching the print, the only think that I've noticed is that when a layer is deposited, it seems to "bow up" slightly, like it's not adhering. Then later on that layer, the print head passes over that area again, and seems to smooth it out. ! I think your problem could be one of two things (or both) First I would look at your starting z height, it might be too high, start a prby scottybfg - Printing
If you have a 50% size difference on one axis thats a sure sign of a bigger issue. And your right, it might not just be the belt, the bearings could be binding, the drivers under power, kinematics issue, there is a whole list of things to check. I use to do the print a cube and change the steps/mm on my original prusa mendel, and for years was constantly re calibrating. Till I went back to thby scottybfg - Printing
Could be idler pressure or temperature related. By the looks of the pics I would say your ABS extrusion temp is too low The following is taken from the Triffid Hunter's calibration guide on the wiki 1) Choose a fairly simple model that's large enough that you can clearly see the infill while it's printing 2) Make sure your hobbed bolt's teeth are clean of debris such as chunks of plastic 3)Mby scottybfg - Printing
Belt tension is one of those tricky ones, Just because it's not skipping steps doesn't mean that its too lose. Also look at the stepper current, and also your speeds. Turn down the acceleration and federate and see if you are getting the same dimension error. I think in marlin the acceleration is set to 3000, try 1500 As for why you see different steps/mm all over the web, well its simple. Theby scottybfg - Printing
Please don't use the suggested "Calibration" method!!!!! The above method works well for the e steps and thats about it. Use this calculator to calculate your steps per mm If your print is still off, look at belt tension or maybe speed settings or stepper current. I could go on a rant about why the above method is just a bandage solution, but Tom does a good job in one of his videosby scottybfg - Printing
Based off the last two questions, it looks like your new product would be competing with the 3D printing systems bunker [3dprint.com] Not only does it monitor the filament and stop the printer when it clogs / runs out, it also provides the idea environment for fillament. Sadly it did not reach its kickstarter goalby scottybfg - General
Look up "Toms guide calibrating your extruder", its a good youtube video that will explain and show you how. (would link but at work and youtube is blocked) Also did you know about the wilson community, tones of extra info there to help you out, also Marty has some great vids on building and setting up all his printers.by scottybfg - General
The reprap wiki would be a good start, or jumping back to the early pages of the forum. But why stop at the Mendel, if you really want to go old school build a Darwin. Also just a nitpicking thing, be careful calling the Mendel or Darwin for that fact, "the father of modern 3D printers" Rapid prototyping has been around for a good 30 to 40 years, but industry held most of the patents. When tby scottybfg - General
Have you tried, disconnecting the extruder motor, heater cartage, thermistor and anything else you plugged in after the pen test, and tested the printer? If the printer still works (and I suspect it will) then you have a short in the wiring that is causing the power to dip. Plug each item back in one and a time and test the printer function till you find which one is causing the short.by scottybfg - Reprappers
The suggestion of buying a new hotend doesn't help with their question, Have you tried again with the old MKIV? If it shows the same behavior then the problem could be in the ramps board. If not, and the MKIV is heating to a set-point and holding, then the issue is most likely with the thermistor in the new all metal hotendby scottybfg - Reprappers
Thaks for that, I was more interested about the grade of aluminium than the thickness but it is a good point to consider, the thicker it is the longer to get to temp. Most suppliers of 5083 say not to exceed 65°C, being a heated bed I would be looking to almost double that at the start of my prints. I'm wondering if the heat will cause it to deform too much, if so then there is no real point. Wby scottybfg - Reprappers
So I want to upgrade my build surface to an aluminum plate, however being in Australia I'm finding it hard to find cast aluminum tooling plate. I did however find this I know its a bit thick but they do have 10mm and even 5mm sometimes. Will something like this do or will I see no advantages over my current pitcher frame glass bedby scottybfg - Reprappers
Take a look at this, Never built one but looks to be what you are thinkingby scottybfg - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Also with the x just vibrating in place could be caused by having the wrong stepper current. Turn the Dashpot up on the X stepper clockwise about 1/4 turn to give it more current, do this with the power to the ramps board disconnected. You can later set the current to ideal by using a voltmeter once you get things going. A quick google will give you all the help you need on thisby scottybfg - Reprappers
Looking at how that first layer went down, your nozzle could be starting too far from the print bed. This may not be related to the de-lamination of the layers, but fixing this will help your parts stick.by scottybfg - General
Hi mate, Give this g-code a go, its for a 25mm cube Its sliced with slic3r 1.2.9, setup for my kossel mini 180mm bed diameter for PLA temp is set at 190 (You can change this if you open it with notepad) If your printer prints fine then you know its your slic3r settings, I would recommend updating to the new 1.2.9 If you still have the same issue then it could be the host software ( Try repeby scottybfg - General
Hi Mate, Just a few more questions for you to answer, 1) Has the printer been working in the past 2) What firmware are you currently trying to upload (Marlin, repetier) 3) Is the firmware uploading or are you getting an error message 4) What host software are you using, (pronterface repetier) 4) If the firmwear is uploading, what is the printer doing that is making it not work? Ie are the motoby scottybfg - General
You could always try spray painting the filament before you printby scottybfg - General
Thankyou I changed the start code in slic3r to G91; Use relative coordinates I dont know why this has become a problem now as I have always used G90 for absolute positioningby scottybfg - General
Hi All, I'm having trouble with the extruder direction in repetier host V1.6.2.When I go to the manual control tab and extrude 10mm of filament, 10mm is fed through. But when i enter G1 E10 F400 the extruder runs in the reverse direction. I'm very confused as how this can happen. I first noticed this when I tried to print a part and the filament was not feeding. The printer is a maker farm i2by scottybfg - General