It looks like the extruder is pausing due to a hardware problem. First thing i'd check is that the hobbed bolt is clean - if it's teeth are full of plastic dust it'll slip randomly. Check there aren't visible jumps in the gears movement - that would indicate over/under current or excessive friction, or a loose extruder motor wire. It's also possible your hot end is jammed with debris - clean it bby james glanville - RAMPS Electronics
It'd be very cool, but there are an awful lot of problems to overcome: You can't spool glass, so you need rods and a loading mechanism. It's difficult to grip, a hobbed bolt would slide along it. It's very sticky, you'd have to try and scrape it off the hotend to clean it. It's incredibly viscous, so forcing out of a nozzle would be tough You couldn't use 3d printed plastic parts anywhere near iby james glanville - General
I don't think it matters what axis you flip, since if you have both flipped, you'll just rotate the object 180 degrees, which doesn't matter. I'd just flip the easiest one. If you want to use the script, you need to download a program called openscad, then run the text with that.by james glanville - Printing
sounds like you have an axis reversed. You should swap the motor wiring for one axis so it moves the other way, and move the endstop to the other side of that axis. If you can't be bothered to do this, you can do what I did in the past, and flip stuff in openscad with a file like: mirror([1,0,0]){import("blah.stl");}by james glanville - Printing
I agree it's a cooling issue, are you printing abs or pla? pla just point a fan at the dodgy bit and you'll be fine. abs is more tricky, you probably want to reduce print speed or print more things at once to allow for cooling. The fact it's only one side will either be due to a draft from the other direction (maybe a fan somewhere on your printer, maybe draughts in the room), or the fact that thby james glanville - General Mendel Topics
I believe the stepper motors have clamping diodes that prevent the coil voltage rising above the supply voltage - if it tries to current can flow into the power supply - which is why the fan would whir.by james glanville - RAMPS Electronics
Sounds cool, I'm located in either Cambridge or Hertford depending on time of the year (whether i'm at uni or not.)by james glanville - Beds/Herts/Cambs RepRap Usergroup
I'd be interested in a trade to the alu profile parts - I could print in green or pink or blue. It'd probably take me about a week to post the parts though, so let me know if you want.by james glanville - Wanted
I would consider just buying the plastic parts - the time you save could easily be spent cnc cutting something for money. I made my first reprap, a darwin by hand from wood, and looking back I should have just spent a bit more money.by james glanville - General
You can just drill the thermistor out, and then you get to keep the brass block and resistor. Drilling another hole might be just as easy. I use exhaust putty to hold my thermistor in place, and it has the advantage that you can blob it all around the cables for a little strain relief.by james glanville - General
You'll be able to tweak the sizes in openscad, somewhere in the scad file there'll be a line that cuts out the hole, and you just need to make that number smaller. If it were me though, I'd print out a thin-walled hexagon shape that the 1/4 nut fits into, with the same outer dimensions as an m8 nut, then glue the 1/4 nut inside. It'd be a lot less printing, and you can keep the modded nuts if youby james glanville - General Mendel Topics
There's no point cnc'ing the parts - the weakness in the prusa design is that it has a tendency to wobble in the x-direction, and that it is tricky to align properly. The accuracy of the printed parts themselves doesn't make much difference at all (which is a strength of the design - a lousy printer can improve itself.) If you want more accuracy when printing, go for a design like the mendel90 whby james glanville - General
That is definitely not right, you might have some sort of belt slipping/motor skipping. You should really calculate steps/mm instead of measuring it - you can do this by working out how many steps/revolution your motors do (making sure to account for microsteps), then how many teeth there are on your pulley, then what the belt pitch is. There's a calculator somewhere on the wiki that'll do this fby james glanville - Mechanics
You absolutely don't want to use threaded rod that thick - you get reduced steps/mm (probably not a problem though) but also you'll get lots of fighting since the threaded rod is so strong. Go for m8, or even m5.by james glanville - Mendel90
I don't know much about huxleys, but: the parts in that clip don't look exceptionally difficult to print, or stupidly high quality - you should be able to print them on any reprap when it is calibrated. techzone sounds pretty dodgy, I've heard bad things about their quality, such asby james glanville - General
Huh, good detective work, and something I never would have thought of.by james glanville - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I think those would be borderline ok, they'd probably fit in the m8 channel they need to. However, I don't use springs, and a lot of other people don't - provided you have low friction bearings on the z smooth rods gravity fights the backlash for you anyway. There's also the advantage that if the head crashes into the bed, it'll just pop off the m8 nuts, and not get powerfully driven into the bedby james glanville - General Mendel Topics
What temperature are you extruding at? marlin stops extruding when it thinks it is too cold to do so safely, so it's possible it's that. See if there's any chatter on the serial port. It could also be dodgy wires to the stepper. I had the same problem where one corner of my bed couldn't be printed in since that was the only place where the dodgy wire was stressed.by james glanville - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I can't help you, but you should go for the iteration 2 "nophead's couplers" since they're compatible with prusa v1 and a whole load better. You'll probably find them more easily too.by james glanville - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Reprap host is antiquated, I'd try slic3r + pronterface. It won't necessarily solve your problem, but you'll be more up to date and more people will know how to help you.by james glanville - RepRap Host
If I were you I'd go for a MM/other reprap. They're pretty mature and stable, and if you follow the build instructions it'll work. Cheap resin printers seem to be composed mainly of one-off builds or kickstarter projects. Not that they wouldn't be better when you got them to work, but that could take a very long time. I like that my prusa sits on my desk next to my pc printing stuff most of the tby james glanville - Reprappers
I suspect the change is just to save a (tiny) amount of plastic, and maybe to make it look a bit better. Here's the old stl: (To get it I looked throuh the prusaj github to the prusa v1 code, and generated it with openscad. Yes I'm bored.)by james glanville - Reprappers
hmm, strange. I had the same sort of problem, but that was a standard bolt and undersized printed part. in a pinch you could always heat up the end of the bolt and push it into the hole to widen it, but that's not ideal. You could always file/grind off the edges of the bolt a bit, at least that way if you mess it up you haven't ruined anything useful.by james glanville - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Nope it's fine to use m220 on it's own - it scales everything.by james glanville - Reprappers
reprap.jar is ancient, I'd go for pronterface, part of the printrun package. Grab the zip file from here:by james glanville - Reprappers
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you find such numbers, it's usually theoretical > resolution of the stepper motor only. No belt > allowance, no bending, nothing measured. > > RepRap in general isn't exactly scientific. RepRap > is about enjoying the technology. Example: instead > of working out a procedure to calibrate machines &by james glanville - Mechanics
Sounds like your y endstop has a dodgy connection.by james glanville - General Mendel Topics
lower comms rate significantly, don't have any electrically noisy things in your house running (power tools etc), close all other programs running on your pc, and put your pc in max power mode (disable any power saving options), solder a large capacitor across the power terminals of the arduino, one of these should help.by james glanville - Reprappers
I agree. I've found that the quality of repraper 3mm pla is actually not too bad at all. faberdashery stuff is perfect, and much more tolerant of temperatures and bed surface, but I feel I've got my machine dialed in perfectly for repraper plastic now. I never found painters tape worked that well with it though, I now use glass + pva and haven't had first layer problems for a few hundred prints nby james glanville - General
You can print m8 nuts and bolts pretty easily, m20 will definitely be fine.by james glanville - General