I am going to follow your suggestion o_lampe! I like the fact that the coupler is able to extend, but I am not fond of the spring effect. Simple and elegant solutions are the best.by Rossos - Prusa i3 and variants
You mean this [3dprint.wiki] ?by Rossos - Prusa i3 and variants
You sure you really mean 0.03mm and 0.02mm and not 0.30mm and 0.20mm? Does the height of your printed object matches the height of the model you've sent for print?by Rossos - Printing
Quotedc42 However, not all extruders skip steps when there is a filament jam. If the motor current is set too high, they just grind the filament up instead. Easily solvable by attaching rotation sensor to the pairing bearing instead of the stepper motor gear. And with rotation sensor I am now inclined towards 360º endless rotation potentiometer.by Rossos - Developers
1) What about reverse Servo logic? Since Servo motors always know the rotation angle of their shaft, they could be attached directly to the extruder gear and report the changes in the shaft rotation. I'll try and research if it's viable.by Rossos - Developers
I had this problem when I incorrectly set the M206 command in the slicer.by Rossos - Reprappers
Yes and Yes 1) Your first question has been solved in every consumer 2D printer nowadays. They have this membrane at the end of the rotating axis to determin the speed of the rotation, among other things. It uses an Opto-sensor. The circular membrane has loads and loads of black strips, but it's transparent everywhere else. Using some magic it is able to determine the speed of things by measurinby Rossos - Developers
Shame you got a bad start with PETG. Admirable you trying out PTU for a good cause. As a user of a clone E3D V6 I find your feedback valuable. Teflon tube from extruder gears and into the hotend inlet. Thanks! PS. First thing flexible I would print would be a nice thick flexible (rubber like) mobile phone skin cover. I absolutely love those. Shame I can't find those for everything I own.by Rossos - General
On my printer, Marlin 1.1.x firmware with OctoPrint 1.3.6 for control, when I power it up it only allows me to move towards positive directions. It is my believe that it assumes on startup that it's on coordinates X0, Y0, Z0. Because if I issue G28 it does go into negative directions until it hits the endstops.by Rossos - Prusa i3 and variants
I did not have the chance to play with the Z-probe sensor your printer uses, but it seems alot of folks are disappointed in that sensor. Alot of mentions about it not triggering at 2mm as stated in user's manual. For some it doesn't even want to work with 5V. There seems a to be a nice long discussion about that particular problematic sensor on Thingiverse' forums here: Have a look, maybe it canby Rossos - Prusa i3 and variants
Didn't think of that. I kinda auto assumed the bed being connected to D8 with RAMPS1.4, D8 being dedicated and all. Just learned a new thing! I believe the only board which doesn't have actual dedicated direct heatbed connection is the MKS Mini v1.2. "External logic level mosfet" kinda sounds like an automotive 12V 20/30A Relay, on or off, no PID for heatbed. An external mosfet with a logic coby Rossos - RAMPS Electronics
Does your TEVO Tarantula has both Z-axis mechanical endstop and auto-bed-leveling Z-Probe?by Rossos - Prusa i3 and variants
Would it be possible to provide more information on the power supplies? And how you wire them. Also, you said you do not connect the 10A rails. I might be wrong, but it is my understanding that even if you use external Mosfet, the board still needs power on the 10A rail to control that external Mosfet. Does the described behavior happen with all the components connected (stepper drivers, endstopsby Rossos - RAMPS Electronics
Oh hi! What a thread. And an old one. I wish I had found it sooner. and are surely at treat to find! Before stumbling upon this thread I have searched google for "3d printing troubleshooting" and it gave me Simplify3D page I thought I would share this here as it seems appropriate.by Rossos - Printing
My speculations are that your Z-Probe settings are wrong. Z-Offset and Z-Probe-Offset are two different things. (Correct me if I am wrong) It is my understanding that when you have an auto-leveling function with Z-Probe your manual Z-Offset in gcode values are ignored. In marlin that's certainly the case.by Rossos - General Mendel Topics
QuoteRoberts_Clif Today I am using OctoPrint for the First time. Printing simotanoiulsly on both 3D Printers while printing on these unknown bed surfaces. I have installed a few plugins like EMERGENCY STOP stop but can not seem to locate where it is. I've been messing around with OctoPrint addons myself. It is somewhat weird sometimes where they pop up or how they act. In my opinion every addonby Rossos - General Mendel Topics
QuoteTrakyan and plug in polulu type stepper drivers under perform compared to drivers built into the board. vs QuoteSpiggles That is until a clogged hot end killed the stepper motor driver on the main logic board. Personally I like the idea of interchangeable stepper drivers on the RAMPS, today the cheap A4988, tomorrow fancy Trinamic 2130. The only RAMPS weakness is rounded around the heatby Rossos - Reprappers
If you are going for RAMPS+Mega2580 and a 300x300 bed which is definitely above RAMPS abilities might I suggest you just use a standard 12V 30/40A car relay?by Rossos - Reprappers
Thank you all for such warm and positive responses! Quoteo_lampe Great stuff! I love pragmatism! The extruder is awesome. Your results are better than some of my first prints with 1000€ printers Haha, yeah! The extruder on it's own captures the essence of the whole build in my opinion. Literally hand-made. QuoteVDX Cheers to you too good sir! QuoteDLF Great job and a good looking machiby Rossos - Look what I made!
Dear RepRap Community, I just made my very first 3D FDM Printer from scratch. It would not have been possible without RepRap.org. I would like to thank ALL who contributed to RepRap community. The countless information I could find both on Wiki and Forums answered a lot of my questions and helped me made design decision along the way. My main objective at the beginning of this project was to mby Rossos - Look what I made!
QuoteSupraGuy it should be a simple enough matter to put an ohmmeter across 2 wires. If there is continuity, then they are from the same pair. If there is no continuity, then they are different pairs. Great suggestion! I did check continuity with ohmmeter and found that my pairs are indeed Black/Green and Red/Blue. Both pairs were giving me 2.5Ohm (just for information). Thank you!by Rossos - Reprappers
Thank you for your answer! Following your example of motor wire harness reverse I checked my examples again. I realized that Version B and Version C are identical in reverse order. Furthermore, the Version A and Version C have the first pair 2B&2A reversed and the pair 1A&1B intact. You are absolutely right about manufacturers retain the right to use different colors, but the patterns gby Rossos - Reprappers
Hello All! Long time lurker here, and this is my first post. So here are my concerns/issues/question (I don't know what to call it, plz halp?) I am building a DIY 3D printer loosely following an Instructables guide. Current stage is connecting hardware electronics. The confusion at this moment in time is how to properly connect Quimat Nema17 Stepper motors 17HD48002H-22B (link: Amazon.de) withby Rossos - Reprappers