To diagnose this problem properly, you need to use a multimeter. Measure the voltages at the power supply terminals, at the terminal on the RAMPS connected to the power supply for the heater, at the terminals on RAMPS that goes to the heat bed, and at the heat bed terminals with the heat bed on. If the voltage at the power supply is too low, then your power supply might not have sufficient power.by brnrd - Printing
I suggest you try the IRC channel for some realtime help.by brnrd - Reprappers
Quote#define _AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80 ,700} Set the z axis steps per mm to the calculated value for your threaded rod. It makes no sense to even play around with this number. You effectively just lowered your feedrate by lowering this number. Quote #define _MAX_FEEDRATE {400, 400, 400, 45} // (mm/sec) Your max feedrate for z is way too high! Set it for 4 and see if that fixes it.You caby brnrd - General
You mean the stepper boards? How about the RAMPS board?by brnrd - General
I don't think those controllers can handle that much current even with additional cooling from a fan.. Try turning down the current setting and see if that works. If that doesn't work, try wiring the z motors in series instead of parallel. This way you can set the Pololu to around 1 A.by brnrd - General
I've read other people complain that their RAMPS had the wrong capacitors for use with 24V. Also, did you try talking to the Arduino when the RAMPS is separated from it?by brnrd - General
Please note that if you rigidly mount the heated PCB that it's not free to slide laterally, then the board will buckle up or down instead as it expands when it heats up. The best approach is to use a M3 screws or equivalent so that there's some clearance for expansion and not to tighten the screw or nut so that the board can slide. I actually have the mounting screws for my Mk1 upside down with tby brnrd - General
That's a lot worse than +/- 0.02 mm. The eccentricity of the pulley translates to error in positioning by the same amount. I wouldn't use that pulley without some way to center it.by brnrd - General
The easy way to prime the extruder is to use the skirt option under skirt and brims. Set it for one layer. Usually, one loop is enough, but you can increase the number of loops if you need.by brnrd - General
QuoteGgabi here is the comparison cubes. im measuring the whole wall. is there a specific layer i should be looking for? You only measure the topmost layer: only one layer as best as you can with the caliper. You also want to do several measurements and average them.by brnrd - Printing
It's a nice build but this is actually closer to a Mendel90 than a Prusa i3.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
If the x smooth rods can only be moved by pushing and pulling them along the x direction but not in the y and z, then they should be fine. Movement of the rods along the x axis doesn't change anything since it's the belt that controls the position in that direction. The x smooth rods on my Prusa2 can also move in that direction and it doesn't affect the print quality as far as I can see even withby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
You should probably replace the z nuts along with the threaded rods. It's very likely that the threads in the nuts have been stripped. Brass nuts would probably be best to use with stainless steel threaded rods.The nuts are a lot cheaper than the rods.by brnrd - General
The nozzle size entered in slic3r has no effect in whether the extruded width which affects surface fills is correct. Slic3r uses the nozzle size to automatically determine the extruded width. Slic3r calculates the volume required to extrude the correct amount of plastic using the filament width and the extrusion multiplier (fudge factor). If the nozzle size entered in slic3r is smaller than thby brnrd - General
bstott - you probably had way too much power going to hour heating block.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
QuoteBlaiddDrwg The Toshiba I have is from like 2002. 32 bit, Windows XP. If I can run things from a thumb drive, that would be great. I know nothing about Linux though I can still run the latest pre-compiled binaries for Slic3r and Pronterface (Printrun) on Windows XP.by brnrd - General
Did you try running Disk Utility?by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
I just bought 10-24 threaded rods from Home Depot for the z axis instead of M5 threaded rods. I expect that it would work just fine.10-32 is the best match for M5, but they don't sell those. I'm not sure if there's a good match for 10 mm rods. If you're building a Prusa3, it's easy enough to change the openscad source for SAE. Finding linear bearings might be tricky.by brnrd - General
If it's Mac OS 10.5 and earlier, it won;t run the latest slic3r. You have to go back to slic3r 0.8.1 if you're running the precompiled package. Here's the release notes for 0.8.3.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Quotestonedcoldskier ... I chose to use stepper motors with integrated trapezoidal lead screws rather than the specified threaded rod. This added over $100 to the build cost, and required me to change the Z-nut holders, but they're dead-straight and the motion of the axis is silky smooth. I bought them from Robotdigg.com, here: ... I chose to use larger, high-torque steppers , which required slby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
A break or a short in the thermistor leads would read a very low (below 25C) or a very high temperature reading that the Marlin firmware should have been set to deal with. There are maximum and minimum temperature limits in the firmware. If the reading goes beyond these limits, the firmware will shut off the heaters and motors. This would be enough to prevent your hotend from getting damaged. Itby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
What Mac OS are you running? It's probably not compatible with the latest Slic3r.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Did you measure the resistance of your PCB heated bed? It should be around 1.1 - 1.2 ohms.by brnrd - General
The safe way to adjust those trimpots is to do it when the 12v supply is off and the Arduino uss on. On RAMPS you'll need to have the diode installed or using Vsb. Plastic screwdriver is also a good idea.by brnrd - General
Even if the motor is not moving, it still gets power to hold its position. If not, it will be easy to turn and introduce errors. Most firmware nowadays have a timeout feature that would disable power to the motors after being idle. There's also a button in pronterface.by brnrd - General
Is the +12V power supply on?by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Did you enable pullups for the endstops? #define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistorsby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
You don't need to redo the cable. You can reverse the direction in the firmware by editing the configuration.h and uploading it again to the controller.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
How fast are you able to extrude manually? By manually, do you mean using the host (Pronterface)? You might want to take a photo of your filament drive gear and post it.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
It's also possible that you're not allowing the layers to cool down and harden before laying down the next layer. This is usually an issue with small parts and it's worse with PLA than with ABS. Do you have a fan installed for cooling the print? If so, did you turn on the cool option in slic3r to turn the fan on or slow down the print when the time to print the layer is too short? That seems toby brnrd - General