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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: Why is acme rod good? - 10 years ago
QuoteRalf Still if you look closely at the print, you will see that the layers is not shifted sideways. The above print was one of the first I printed on my all steel repstrap, with 16mm hardened smooth rods. The z leadscrews is only suspended in one end, so there is no way that they would be able to push the y carrige arount to cause that ammount banding. At the time I struggled with the problby brnrd - General
Re: Help Identifying Print Issue - 10 years ago
80 C for the bed maybe a bit high. But have you checked to make sure that your glass or bed is not sliding?by brnrd - General
Re: Ardoino mega shield problem on Prusa I3 - 10 years ago
Quotebri857 I am a Newbie, but familiar with electronics. Could others comment on these suggestions as I don't want to get off on the wrong foot ! To load your 12v supply try using old car/motorcycle headlamp bulbs, you can usually solder these. You can also use them to load the 5v supply, but will need more than one bulb. If you have a PC using the same psu type you could try swapping them to teby brnrd - Reprappers
Re: Ardoino mega shield problem on Prusa I3 - 10 years ago
Quotefatihaltunel Dear friends, In order to understand the problem, I switched power cables (D8 and D10) of heat bed and hotend. This time hotend was not heating but heat bed was heating. I understood that heat bed has no problem. This suggests a problem with the D8 output. Quote 1-Power on of my ATX Power 2-Read the voltage at arduino mega shield power input. The two inputs were 12 V. There iby brnrd - Reprappers
Re: Are there Marlin updates since 1.0.0 release worth checking out? - 10 years ago
I've been motivated to switch to the new version in order to do automatic bed leveling once I implement the HW changes in my printers.by brnrd - General
Re: Rubber drive wheel - 10 years ago
I found that it's better for the stepper to skip than for the filament drive gear to slip. When the steppers skip, it only causes a defect in the spot where the extruder didn't put enough plastic, When the gear slips, plastic gets stuck between the teeth which results in more slippage that eventually lead to the gear eating into the plastic. At that point, the whole print job is ruined. I supposby brnrd - General
Re: Z Motors stuck - 10 years ago
For Polulu or equivalent, here's the wiki.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Converting a Prusa i1 to I3 - 10 years ago
Wobble is no rally a big issue with either the Mendel, Prusa 1 or Prusa 2. There are many ways to fix it. The loose z nuts seems to take care of wobble effectively at the cost of some lag in the z.. This is not really an issue if you don't use z lift. You can also replace the z threaded rods with M5 easily in the Prusa.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Is flexible coupler helpful? - 10 years ago
So, the nut trap is large and allows the nut to wander? So, this trades some lag in the z nuts to eliminate wobble? I think the Prusa2 x-ends may have been intentionally made to have oversized nut traps to do the same thing. That's how my Prusa2 works.by brnrd - General
Re: My extruder keeps stripping the filament inside, WHY??? - 10 years ago
Check Filament settings in Slic3r and make sure that the temperature for other layers isn't too low. Set it the same as the first layer temperature.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: switching plastic types best practice? - 10 years ago
If I were to try this again, I would heat up the hot end for PLA and then push as much of the PLA out as possible by pushing the wrong end of the right size drill bit into the hotend. Then I would push in the ABS, push some more and then raise the temperature for ABS.by brnrd - General
Re: My extruder keeps stripping the filament inside, WHY??? - 10 years ago
I asked this before, but if you can't push the filament through the hot end with light pressure using your hand, then you have a problem in your hot end. You said you tested this before, but you need to do this again. Your hot end may have gone bad.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: switching plastic types best practice? - 10 years ago
I think the best way to switch feeds is to cut the current feed and follow it up with the new feed. On my extruder, I just push the new feed on top of the old feed while holding the feed about 6 inches or so away until the filament drive gear catches it. You need to round the new feed a bit so that it doesn't get caught as it goes from the cold end to the hot end. As far as going back and forthby brnrd - General
Re: Fine thread for Z axis - 10 years ago
Most reprap printers before Prusa3 (i3) used M8 or 5/16 threaded rods. M5 threaded rods combined with 10 mm smooth rods do a better job of eliminating z wobble than M8 threaded rods with 8 mm smooth rods. This was the reason for the switch. Either way works. You can get prints without z-wobble or z-banding artifacts with ordinary and usually bent threaded rods if you design and build your printerby brnrd - Reprappers
Re: Why is an acme rod good? - 10 years ago
Quoteakhlut Prusa had switched the i3 to M6 The i3 uses M5 for the the z axis threaded rods. Check the wiki.by brnrd - General
Re: Newbie Help - Extruder Speed on Prusa i3 SUPER slow - 10 years ago
Quotetrdcelica By log window are you referring to the Arduino software? I tried cranking the steps/mm in Pronterface and nothing happened. Based on what I read, would this be found in the configuration h file of the Marlin software? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm 25+ hours into this project and I feel like I'm so close to getting it to work! No. The right side of Pronterface window afterby brnrd - General
Re: My extruder keeps stripping the filament inside, WHY??? - 10 years ago
I don't know what a point head is but you need to see the teeth to make sure that it's clean. If not, it won't bite the feed Hmm, sounds like a dentist.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Magma Hot End w/ Marlin v1 - 10 years ago
Most ATX power supplies need to see a load on the +5V rail to get full voltage on the +12V rail. Did you try to put a load on the +5V rail like a fan, light or resistor? Mine has a 10 ohm/10 W resistor.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Newbie Help - Extruder Speed on Prusa i3 SUPER slow - 10 years ago
Use M92 to set the E value of the steps per mm. When you first connect to the printer, you'll see those numbers on the log window.by brnrd - General
Re: My extruder keeps stripping the filament inside, WHY??? - 10 years ago
Toothbrush works well too. Compressed air is better if you have it handy.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Issues with my new built reprap - 10 years ago
Try using the m codes to set the maximum feedrate from the command line. If you're using proterface, you can send these from the lower right of the window. M203 - to set maximum feedratesby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Please help me solve this - 10 years ago
Try to slow it down anyway or print 2 at a time. Even if you have a fan blowing, it might not be enough to cool the parts down since the part is right below the nozzle all of the time.by brnrd - Printing
Re: Rubber drive wheel - 10 years ago
Wouldn't that make the steps/mm vary if the rubber is compressed and the diameter changes?by brnrd - General
Re: My extruder keeps stripping the filament inside, WHY??? - 10 years ago
Did you clean the plastic from the teeth on your filament drive gear after each time it digs into the feed?by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Why is acme rod good? - 10 years ago
Quoteakhlut Yeah. I dont bother with microstepping on z because there is no point. As far as calibrating z that is exactly what im advocating - dont measure, just plug the ouput drom the equation pitch/(stepper resolution×microstep rate). If you're worried about round off errors, then you should use microstepping in z. It also makes for a quite printer.by brnrd - General
Re: Please help me solve this - 10 years ago
You might be printing too fast for those small parts and not giving the lower layers enough time to harden before laying down the next layer. Slow down the print or use the cool option to blow a fan for cooling or slow it down when the time it takes to print each layer is less than 20 or 30 s. You can also print 2 at a time, but that just wastes plastic.by brnrd - Printing
Re: Is flexible coupler helpful? - 10 years ago
Quotecnc dick The real root of the problem for all of these machines is that the Z is not strong enough the rods should be continually supported and they should be mounted to a stiff frame. The idea is whatever the screw does it should not push the Z back and forth in other words the linear axis should be stronger than the screw I think going to M5 threaded rods instead of M8 rods would reduce zby brnrd - General
Re: Why is acme rod good? - 10 years ago
Quoteakhlut ... As best I can figure out, calibrating the Z- axis means you'll create oddball ideal layer heights. By that I mean your full-step layer heights will have more than 3 significant digits. This introduces the error. Example: You have an M6 rod that has a 1mm pitch, 200 step motors and they're driven @ full step. That's a Z-axis value of 200 in firmware, and the ideal layer heighby brnrd - General
Re: Magma Hot End w/ Marlin v1 - 10 years ago
That ATX power supply that momentum got has enough amperage for a 3D printer. It has 18A on each of the two +12V rails. His temperature control issue sounds like a firmware issue.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics