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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: My extruder keeps stripping the filament inside, WHY??? - 10 years ago
Yes. Completely release the spring tension and push on the filament. Perhaps you're printing too fast. How fast can you extrude manually using the host before the filament drive gear starts slipping? Are you sure you're not going faster than that in your slicer setting?by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: My extruder keeps stripping the filament inside, WHY??? - 10 years ago
If you can't extrude by pushing the filament with slight pressure using your hand, then your hot end is either too cold or is defective. To do this, you should release the spring tension on the extruder (cold end) first.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Perimeter width - 10 years ago
I've noticed that 1.0.0RC1 and RC2 both produce g-codes with the perimeter extrusion width set the same as the nozzle diameter which is less than what would be considered ideal width to avoid stretching the filament when all the advanced settings for extrusion width are set to 0 for auto. What's the reasoning behind this?by brnrd - Slic3r
Re: Issues with my new built reprap - 10 years ago
It's not a bug in slic3r. You need to set the maximum feed rates for all your axis in configuration.h based on how fast your printer can move each axis. The same goes for the acceleration and the jerk. The firmware will then take care to make sure that none of your axis exceeds those maximum rates etc.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Help to better my prints - 10 years ago
Tightening nuts and screws is not always the best approach to get rid of "z-wobble" artifacts. In Prusa 1 and 2, some play between the z nut and the x-carriage nut trap is enough to get rid of z wobble if the rods are not bent too much. Loosening the z motors or not mounting all of them to give some lateral play to the motor also helps. I think mounting the motors tightly can actually lead to morby brnrd - General
Re: Help to better my prints - 10 years ago
Quoteswoozle ... Perfection with these hobbyist-grade machines is not a reaslistic expectation. ... I agree with everything except for this statement. There are plenty of examples on the web and based on my own experience to show that this is a realistic expectation.by brnrd - General
Re: Heat bed taking a long time - 10 years ago
Printing from Pronterface or from SD card shouldn't make a difference. Here are possible reasons: 1. Your power supply is probably not supplying enough current for the bed, 2. the resistance in your bed is too high and it's not getting enough power, 3. your leads are not big enough and adding too much resistance, 4. you have a poor connection somewhere. Measure the +12V voltage at the powerby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Inconsistant Calibration - 10 years ago
The reason that you can't calibrate your axes accurately with a 20 mm cube is that the size is affected by other factors besides the movement of the axes. If the extruder steps per mm is too high, then your extruded width will be larger and this would increase the size. If too small, it would decrease the size. If the cube is near 100% infill, then a high e steps/mm would make the sides and topby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa I3X DIYtechshop - 10 years ago
If those stepper controllers are Pololu or equivalent, then this wiki should explain how to adjust the trimpots. Othe.rs are similar but the convertion ffactor rom Vref to current might be different.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Edge of print not smooth - 10 years ago
It looks like something might be mechanically loose, perhaps the gear, motor, idler or belt in one of the x or y axis. If you meant that the side along the x axis is smooth, but the side along the y axis is rough, then that means that something maybe loose in the x axis.by brnrd - General
Re: Stepper drivers keep breaking. - 10 years ago
That heatsink is quite large. Are you sure that it's not shorting anything. I actually run a Prusa2 without heatsinks and fans on the x, y, z and e Pololu stepper controllers. The one for the e was getting quite hot so I replaced it with the Panucatt Surestepper SD8825. The Sd8825 has much better heat management and the chip can handle much higher current and it can go to 1/32 microsteps.by brnrd - General
Re: Help to better my prints - 10 years ago
The quality of the print looks very good. Other than overhang, as you wrote, I don't really see any major issues. To fix those, the standard approach would be to turn on support in the slicer. In order to print properly, the filament needs to have something to support it. You can print bridges if your printer is properly tuned to span gaps, but if there's nothing on the other side, gravity winsby brnrd - General
Re: Help with prints? - 10 years ago
At what layer are you measuring the wall thickness?by brnrd - Printing
Re: Prusa I3X DIYtechshop - 10 years ago
No offense to your supplier but those printed parts don't look very good. I would say that they're below current Reprap standard. I hope that's not a reflection of how well your printer will perform.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Heated Build Chamber Temperature Control - 10 years ago
Since the bed and extruder are under temperature control, I've found that chamber (or box) stabilizes at some temperature about 15-20C above ambient temperature. You shouldn't need to worry about overheating in the winter. Perhaps in the summer that would be a concern. Also, if your printer has parts made of PLA, you have to be careful. All my printers have printed ABS parts. RAMPS 1.4 support 2by brnrd - General
Re: Issues with my new built reprap - 10 years ago
The trimpot is used to set the maximum current for the steppers. Too high and your motor and controller chip overheats. Too low and the motor skips. If yours are Pololu or equivalent, read this wiki. Other boards may have different voltage to current conversion. After you adjust your stepper controlllers, you need to edit the firmware configuration.h to lower the maximum speed in z. For z usingby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa I3X DIYtechshop - 10 years ago
Yes. The tubing is used since it allows some flex whereas a printed coupler would not.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bowden strength question - 10 years ago
Here's what I've been doing when my J-head Mk V starts to jam and it won't extrude easily when I push a filament by hand. 1. Remove it from the cold end (most people incorrectly call this the extruder) 2. Connect to the controller and heat up the hot end to operating temperature and pull out the filament. 3. Use an allen wrench to tighten the hollow set screw. You should feel just a slight resby brnrd - Delta Machines
Re: Help with prints? - 10 years ago
Looks like some serious issues with the z axis to me. It looks like the z layer thickness is changing with height. One reason for this could be the z threaded rod/stepper motor might be moving up and down at each rotation. This could happen with an overconstrained bend and misaligned threaded rod. Of course, since we haven't seen a photo of the printer, we're just guessing here. I would suggestby brnrd - Printing
Re: New Problem All the Sudden: x-axis vibration, shutter, lock - 10 years ago
Twisting pairs of wires together helps to cut down on interference. I twist each pair of stepper wires, hot end heater wires, bed heater wires, and thermistor wires together. Keeping them short helps also.by brnrd - General
Re: Glass Type - Heated Beds - 10 years ago
I have been using 1/8" window glass with Prusa Mk1 PCB heat bed for over 3 years and I've not had a single one crack except when I crashed the nozzle on one and I broke a couple from the stress caused by a thick heated bed (Panucatt) that warped upon heating.by brnrd - General
Re: Help Please - One of Z axis Motor CANT CONTROL! - 10 years ago
One of the z motors is skipping steps. Can you turn the threaded rod by hand with the +12V power off? Maybe it's binding Are the z motors identical to each other? They don't have any instructions for measuring Vref in the datasheet, but you can just try increasing Vref a bit by turning the trimpot on the z controller a bit clockwise.by brnrd - General
Re: Implementing an Auto-Leveling Bed? (link) - 10 years ago
Quotekfootball15 Quotejamesdanielv brnrd: the auto bed routing is performed by G29, it needs to be performed after G28 otherwise all settings are lost. also i had some signal issues with my servo jerking back a bit whenever my extruder motor stopped. i fixed it by driving the pulse width pin to high when servo is not in use. I have my servo wires routed thru with my extruder wires to keep thingsby brnrd - General
Re: Printing from SD Card - 10 years ago
QuoteBlaiddDrwg Thanks! I got it all working yesterday. Noticed an incredibly faster heating up for the bed and extruder compared with when I was running everything from my laptop. I don't think there's a difference in the way those temperatures are regulated by the firmware when running from a host computer or from LCD.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Z Axis drives not syncing [i3] - 10 years ago
QuoteLMColl I adjusted each driver to 0.9v as suggested in the g3d build manual but have since fiddled with the z driver in a vain attempt at fixing it.... how does this translate to current limit? According to their website, it's 0.8V per amp. So that translate to 1.125 A. The also have another trimpot called OSC - ROSC. Not sure how that works, but it says to turn it fully counterclockwise fby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
Are you printing from SDCard or from the host with the LCD? I've seen this kind of behavior when I'm trying to pause an SD card print from the host. I click pause and assuming that it will pause, I click on Pronterface to jog y by 100 mm to bring the bed out. Because the pause didn't really happen, I would see the bed move out and then move back to the print and continue printing. I'm wonderingby brnrd - General
Re: Stuttering stepper motors - 10 years ago
QuoteOhmarinus Instead of reducing the current you could also place a cooling fan on the stepper drivers. They will provide airflow that allows the stepper drivers' cooling elements to transfer their heat to the air. Groetjes! It's important to first set the Vref correctly to make sure that the current is not too high for the motor or the Pololu. Putting a cooling fan is secondary.by brnrd - General
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
Someone wrote a wiki in the reprap site. I think before you even start trying to print a g-code file, you need to first verify that all your axes are working correctly. You do that using the host software (such as Pronterface) to jog each axis independently and make sure that it's moving in the right direction and by the correct amount. You also need to make sure that it homes properly if you arby brnrd - General
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
In Pronterface, load the g-code and then go to Tools and then select Edit. You can see the g-code that's being sent to the printer. You can also just open the file in a text editor. If you post your g-code, then others here can go over them to look for anything. I think it's sounding more and more like your problem is in the hardware. What is your v-ref set to?by brnrd - General
Re: Z Axis Why 2 motors vs 1 motor? - 10 years ago
You can answer your questions and get a bit of history lesson if you start at the reprap wiki. Quick answers: 1. An extra motor is actually cheaper than a belt and additional gears. Synchronization is not really an issue with properly matched and installed z motors. When they go out of sync, it's quite easy to adjust. 2. Reprap is not one option. It is MANY options! 3. The movement in the Mendby brnrd - General