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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
Have you compared wha the printer is doing with what Pronterface is showing in the toolpath view?by brnrd - General
Re: Idea for quick release from heated bed - 10 years ago
Why not try just using a fan to blow air over the bed? I think this id done on the Mendel90by brnrd - General
Re: Pause command for G code? - 10 years ago
OK. I thought he wanted to pause twice. Once before the print starts and another in the middle of the print. My bad.by brnrd - General
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
You haven't mentioned what slicer you're using, but check your g-code. Perhaps you can post it so others to see.by brnrd - General
Re: Pause command for G code? - 10 years ago
This is not as straightforward as it seems. When you pause a print, you really want the print to pause at the end of a thread and retract. You probably want more retract than usual to avoid ooze when you restart the print. Then the hotend must move away from the part and cool down there while the bed stays hot it it's heated so that the part doesn't come off. Then when you resume, you have to letby brnrd - General
Re: Hot End and Bed Temperature Measurement Question - 10 years ago
Quoteohioplastics What the firmware does is basically a hack. Because no one knows how to come up with a way to make firmware perform the complicated exponential equation to read the temperature, it uses a "look up table" to compare the current of the thermistor to a long list of temperatures and their expected current. It's actually measuring voltage with an ADC, but you're right that it's effeby brnrd - General
Re: Idea for quick release from heated bed - 10 years ago
What's on the surface and what's the plastic? I still use the old fashioned (by now) PET tape on heated glass for printing ABS. With this, parts as large as 100mmx100mm or so in x and y release easily once cold. When I used to print PLA on heated glass, I never had an issue with it releasing once cooled to room temperature.by brnrd - General
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
It sounds like your trimpot setting is not right. Perhaps the current is too high. How hot are your motors getting? Did you measure Vref? Ideally, you need to adjust Vref based on the specs of your stepper motors.If you have Pololu controllers, then a Vref of 0.4 V gives 1 A of maximum current on the steppers. There's no feedback from the motor to the controller. The firmware assumes that the stby brnrd - General
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
You should probably need to adjust the trimpots on the stepper motor controllers What electronics are you using?by brnrd - General
Re: My DIY 3D Printer approach - 10 years ago
For 3D printing with FDM, the z axis can be a lot slower than the other 2 axes. Usually, it's only changed when the printer steps into the next z layer although the autoleveling method in use nowadays does change z during x-y moves to compensate for the angle of the bed. There are separate settings for maximum speed, acceleration and jerk for each axis in the firmware, including the extruder.by brnrd - General
Re: Anyone tried one of the new all metal extruders? - 10 years ago
QuoteI joined this kickstarter. They are American (I am Canadian). The store should be open post April. The heating block is stainless steel. Is that thermally conductive enough?by brnrd - General
Re: Anyone tried one of the new all metal extruders? - 10 years ago
Quoteandy-net Quotebrnrd Seems like a lot of money to waste on an extruder. There are a lot of printable designs that work realiable for much less money. An all-metal extruder is not really worth it. The most trouble-prone part of a 3D printer is the hot end, not cold end. And this design still uses a j-head. So technically speaking, it's not really all metal. I think that's a very personal opinby brnrd - General
Re: Anyone tried one of the new all metal extruders? - 10 years ago
Sorry about that. I should have quoted the first post. I just did so someone else doesn't get confused.by brnrd - General
Re: Anyone tried one of the new all metal extruders? - 10 years ago
QuoteSrek Afair this thread is about all metal extruders The first post on this thread is specificcally about an all metal hotend that is being sold on ebay.by brnrd - General
Re: Adjusting stepper drivers - 10 years ago
NEMA 17 motors can have different torque and electrical specs. You should be able to run at even 1/2 A in most cases. If you don't know the specs, start at 0.3V for Vref and see how if you still have missed steps and make sure the motors aren't getting too hot. You don't need to be running the motors to set the Vref. You don't even need to supply +12V to the electronics. If your controller gets pby brnrd - General
Re: Adjusting stepper drivers - 10 years ago
A Vref of 0.4 V produces a maximum current of 1 A. This is probably a good start, but check you motor specs. I tend to set it lower than this on my printers (Prusa2, Ord Bot Hadron) except for the extruder motor.by brnrd - General
Re: Temp drop on hot end and hot bed - 10 years ago
Try connecting the light on the 5V rail again and see if that helps.by brnrd - General
Re: Adjusting stepper drivers - 10 years ago
What electronics? If it uses a Polulu stepper controller or equivalent, then there should be a pad to measure Vref which you can use to calculate the current. You want to set it to no more than what your stepper motors are rated for to avoid overheating the motors.by brnrd - General
Re: Temp drop on hot end and hot bed - 10 years ago
That should be plenty. Did you put a load on the +5V rail? Most ATX supply seem to need a load there or they won't put full voltage on the 12V rail. I don't know why this is so. I have a wirewound resistor 10 ohm resistor on mine that I got from Radioshack.by brnrd - General
Re: Retraction problem - 10 years ago
There are no such thing as a stupid question.by brnrd - General
Re: Retraction problem - 10 years ago
The retraction speed is in mm/s. The default in slic3r is 30 mm/s. If it works at that speed, why do you need to run it faster at 40 mm/s? Just curious.by brnrd - General
Re: Anyone tried one of the new all metal extruders? - 10 years ago
QuoteSrek Quotebrnrd Seems like a lot of money to waste on an extruder. There are a lot of printable designs that work realiable for much less money. An all-metal extruder is not really worth it. The most trouble-prone part of a 3D printer is the hot end, not cold end. And this design still uses a j-head. So technically speaking, it's not really all metal. It supports the J-Head mount, what hotenby brnrd - General
Re: Anyone tried one of the new all metal extruders? - 10 years ago
QuoteSo I am quite tempted by the all metal extruders sold on eBay from Israel. They look pretty solid, and the extruder really is where the magic happens so I am trying to work out if it is worth the investment. So before I go and spend my money, I wonder if anyone else had seen them, and what kind of a reception they are getting. They seem to have a good design, and my wades is really showingby brnrd - General
Re: Temp drop on hot end and hot bed - 10 years ago
The wattage of the ATX power supply is not what matters. You have to look at the rating of the +12V output. You need at least 18 A.by brnrd - General
Re: My DIY 3D Printer approach - 10 years ago
Looks nice and clean, but with all that weight on the bed, you might find it a bit limited in speed with it comes to 3D printing.by brnrd - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 10 years ago
No resistance means that both fuses are good.by brnrd - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 10 years ago
If you mean a "1" on the left side of the meter display, then that sounds like it's open. You probably have a blown fuse for the heat bed power. There's also a separate fuse for the other 12V supply input to RAMPS that powers the rest of the controller, including the AT Mega. You should check that too in a similar way. With all the power off, measure the resistance between the leads of F1 on RAMby brnrd - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 10 years ago
Not sure what you mean by display. Do you mean the host computer display? Or do you have an LCD connected to RAMPS? As far as checking the fuse, another way would be to turn off all the 12V power to RAMPS and check for continuity between the + bed power supply input and the + bed output on RAMPS. If the fuse is still good, this should be a short (near 0 ohms). If you disconnect the + lead to tby brnrd - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 10 years ago
You haven't mentioned checking the fuse yet. You should make sure that it's not blown. If RAMPS is still wired to the 12V power supply for the bed, you can check this easily witn a voltmeter between the + bed terminal and the ground wire from your power supply (any of the - terminal between the power supply and RAMPS). You should read 12V if the fuse is still good. If not, then the fuse is probabby brnrd - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 10 years ago
Quotefoster182 what way is power routed on the ramps for the heatbed? 12v input on the ramps input rail->fuses->?->?->mosfets?->D8? That's not the way it's wired. Check the schematic. 12V input on RAMPS -- fuse -- (PS1) + output to BED GND -- SourceDrain -- (PS2) - output to BED D8 ---------------- Gate As you can see, the MOSFET is switching theby brnrd - General