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Prusa i2, Prusa i1, Prism, Sells, and other Mendel variants
Re: Prusa i3 Plate stabilizer? - 10 years ago
If you have access to a drill press or a drll guide that would help you drill at right angle, then you can drill precise holes that fit tightly around the 10 mm threaded rods on four pieces of thick flat hard board roughly sized to take the place of that printed support. If you slide that in the threaded rods that mount to the aluminum plate, then it should help keep it square when you tighten thby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa mendel i3 - 10 years ago
Download the whole distribution from github. If you're not sure how to use OpenSCAD to generate the STL, you can use the default box version that's located in the /boxframe/sample_stl folder. These were generated for use with parts and printer settings described in the readme.md in that folder. The readme includes a link with instructions for putting together the box frame. The advantage of learby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa mendel i3 - 10 years ago
You have to use OpenSCAD to generate STL files from the scad files for printing in your friend's printer. There are many sources for electronics for 3D printers that are better and probably cheaper than hobbyking. Look in the reprap.org for starters. This table is a good start. You can also look in ebay for good deals.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Y does not stop at endstop - 10 years ago
You should post your configuration.h When you jog each axis, make sure that it moves towards the end stop when jogging in the negative direction. If not, you need to reverse the axis direction in configuration.h. It sounds like you need to do this with the y axis. It should move to the back, towards your end stop, when jogging in the negative direction. You might need to do this to all axes if tby brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 z axis motors - 10 years ago
Check the maximum current spec for your z motors. Then set the Vref on the stepper controllers to the voltage corresponding to no more than the current rating of the motor. If you're motors are wired in parallel, then you should be able to set for twice the maximum current rating.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa mendel i3 - 10 years ago
The scad files and siome documentations are there. Your first decision is probably to decide on the frame: box or single plate aluminum. There are also other versions out there that are available in kit form.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: motors getting hot? - 10 years ago
You need to adjust Vref on your stepper controllers. What printer controller and stepper controller are you using? The safe way to do this is to turn off the 12V supply if possible and run the controller from the USB connection. Then measure the Vref on the test point on each stepper controller and adjust the trimpot to the voltage corresponding to no more than the maximum rating of your stepperby brnrd - General
Re: problem with steper motor - 10 years ago
Why are you using gears? The parameter is steps per mm, not turns per mm. For example, a common threaded rod used is 8 mm with 1.25 mm pitch. That results in 200 steps* 16 microsteps/step / 1.25 mm thread pitch = 2560 steps per mm.by brnrd - General
Re: Z axis problems - 10 years ago
Quotejamesdanielv list your printer type and model as well as upload a copy of your configuration.h He has a Mendel. It has one motor, gears, and a belt for the z-axis. Since he already has that, I think he's better off staying with it than moving the motor(s) to the top. There are other things in the Mendel that can be improved before that: The y and x carriage for instance. Since it worked witby brnrd - General
Re: 29 Hours for a single print ? - 10 years ago
Consider printing a scaled down version of that part before trying to print at full size. With ABS, there's a good chance that it will ending being warped.by brnrd - General
Re: Extruder (stepper motor) fan control - 10 years ago
You can do this in slic3r using the custom g-code tab. Turn the fans on in the start code and off in the end code.by brnrd - General
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
Quotecnc dick Quotedave3d umdpru: you have just given me an idea. Is it possible to pick up a signal from a smoke detector that can be used to shutdown a printer? I think that's a great idea.This is what I mean people start throwing ideas around brainstorming is what we used to call it all of a sudden one pops out of thin air There are inexpensive interconnectetableby brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
Quotetjb1 Quotebrnrd Quotetjb1 Quotebrnrd Quotetjb1 I'm pretty sure MINTEMP is just a thermistor initialization check and can not be used during printing because the printer would never start if this is within 5 degrees of extrusion temp. I think the feature you are thinking of is the min extrusion temp which just prevents extrusion and would not shut the printer off. I can't look at the code nby brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
Quotedave3d HEATER_O_MAXTEMP 245 is on line 108. This switches the heater off if it fails to control properly and goes overtemp. It is not for thermistor failure. It also stays off until there is a reset. I had problems with this until I tuned the PID settings. /quote] The maxtemp parameter is also for when the thermistor leads are shorted since a short would read as a very high temperature.by brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
Quotetjb1 Quotebrnrd Quotetjb1 I'm pretty sure MINTEMP is just a thermistor initialization check and can not be used during printing because the printer would never start if this is within 5 degrees of extrusion temp. I think the feature you are thinking of is the min extrusion temp which just prevents extrusion and would not shut the printer off. I can't look at the code now but I'm pretty surby brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
Quotetjb1 I'm pretty sure MINTEMP is just a thermistor initialization check and can not be used during printing because the printer would never start if this is within 5 degrees of extrusion temp. I think the feature you are thinking of is the min extrusion temp which just prevents extrusion and would not shut the printer off. I can't look at the code now but I'm pretty sure that the firmware wby brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Inconsistant Calibration - 10 years ago
A 20 mm cube is too small for calibrating your x, y and z axes. Do yourself a favor and just use the calculated values.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 10 years ago
It probably overheated. Make sure that it's the correct MOSFET. If it is, I suggest replacing it with an ultra low RDS(on) MOSFET and also putting a heat sink on it. I don't understand why a lot of RAMPS boards don't come with heatsink on that MOSFET.by brnrd - General
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
I think that the idea behind the minimum temperature parameter is to detect a thermistor failure, like when the thermistor leads break or get disconnected. In those cases, the resistance would become much higher than the resistance at 25C (usually around 100k) and the temperature would read below room temperature. It won't detect instances when the thermistor comes off the heating block. Nopheadby brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Hardware store hot end - 10 years ago
I don't see a good thermal isolation between the hot end and the cold end. I see large heat sinks which basically will draw a lot of heat from the hot end. This would mean that most of the heat would be dissipated in the air. Did I miss something?by brnrd - General
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
QuoteAntslake Quotebrnrd QuoteAntslake I am definitely building a metal enclosure for the RAMPS. Think about it, any UL listed device that has that kind of power going through it is in an enclosure. I wonder if these are even UL listed. This is not true. I can think of many household items that use much more power (kw or more) that are in plastic: electric drills, blow dryers for hair, iron foby brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
QuoteAntslake I am definitely building a metal enclosure for the RAMPS. Think about it, any UL listed device that has that kind of power going through it is in an enclosure. I wonder if these are even UL listed. This is not true. I can think of many household items that use much more power (kw or more) that are in plastic: electric drills, blow dryers for hair, iron for clothes, waffle makers.by brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: [PRUSA I3]: Direct extruder - 10 years ago
Of course direct drive extruder works with 3 mm feed. I use a direct drive NEMA17 extruder that i designed paired with a Mk IV J-head to print with 3mm ABS routinely. When the j-head is working well, it can extrude at up to 150 mm feed/min. The trick is to use a small diameter filament drive. I use an 8 mm bolt that has been knurled with a v-groove mounted on the motor shaft which should be equivby brnrd - General
Re: Implementing an Auto-Leveling Bed? (link) - 10 years ago
Is the automatic bed routine performed using G28?by brnrd - General
Re: Yes, 3D printers can go on fire. - 10 years ago
I think one way to route the wires safely to the carriage is to run the wires through a spring as was done in the Ord Bod. This would keep the wires from drooping down, and it would have avoided the problem that you encountered. I found that a plastic spiral wrap which I'm using now also works, but maybe not as good as a spring.by brnrd - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Advise to get faster Prints ? - 10 years ago
I think the extruder feed rate is specified in terms of the feed (3 mm or 1.75 mm diameter filament) and not the extruded filament which comes out at slightly larger than the nozzle diameter. So, 45 mm/s in the feed would be roughly 1.75/0.35)*45 mm/s= 1125 mm/s extruded filament if you have a 0.35 mm nozzle. That's plenty fast.by brnrd - General
Re: Poor Print Quality!?!? - 10 years ago
It's not a problem that can be fixed with slic3r settings. It's also best to leave the extrusion width setting to 0 and let slic3r select it automatically. I agree with jcabrer. This is likely a hardware problem with the extruder.by brnrd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Any reviews on this? - 10 years ago
Look at the lower left corner of the schematic and you'll see that the bed +12V input (X4-1) is labeled as +12V2. This does not go anywhere in the circuit except to the terminal going to the heated bed (PS1) in the box called "Heaters and Fans". The only thing that might be damaged due to overvoltage on the circuit is LED2 and the fuse F2. This has been done: If you really want to run your beby brnrd - General
Re: Any reviews on this? - 10 years ago
With RAMPS 1.4, if you want to run the heated bed at 24V, then all you have to do is to connect the 24V supply to the + and - bed terninals. I don't think those caps are on the + supply for the bed. You can still run the rest (Arduino, stepper controllers and hot end) at 12V by using another power supply for the other + and - supply terminals.by brnrd - General
maximum part size in slic3r - 10 years ago
What's the maximum size that slic3r can handle? I tried to slice an object 8 feet long and the g-code comes out wrong. It has negative coordinates even though I told it that the bed size is 2600x2600 and the print center is at 1300x1300. When I scale the object by 50%, it works fine.by brnrd - Slic3r