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Designs that do not fit in other categories. Previously named "New RepStraps and Post Mendel"
Re: ADVICE: Frankenstein i3 rebuild - 3 years ago
I guess I could get a new heated bed, or I could use an external Mosfet driver module I have with 12v. Interesting, I thought the Voron folks often use RAMPS + Raspberry Pi to run Klipper. I can't imagine they run off 12v? I guess the Firmware doesn't matter. I was going to save the SKR to run Klipper with a Pi Zero W. It would be fun to run the 2 in 1 out hotend on this.by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
ADVICE: Frankenstein i3 rebuild - 3 years ago
Greetings! This is a very DIY i3 clone I build from a Thomas Sanladerer youtube series awhile ago. I never got it completely running. It has a RAMPS 1.3 + Mega board, A4988s, Dual Z. Take a look at the parts I have as options. I would like to get it running as an experimental printer. Like a 1mm nozzle of the dual hot-end I have. I'd rather not spend more $$$ with all the parts I have on hand.by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Ordering parts need advice regarding linear rail - 3 years ago
They make T-nuts for 1515, but I needed to know what size to order. I have 6 sticks of 1515 (600mm). Maybe you haven't used it before, but it is 100% rigid. You are not bending this stiff. Plus, I'm adding the 12mm linear rail which is steel. I believe initially they used M3 with square nuts. But I can see the benefit of T-nuts I order from China, so it will take a month or two if I'm lucky,by disneytoy - Delta Machines
Re: Ordering parts need advice regarding linear rail - 3 years ago
Thank you@!!!by disneytoy - Delta Machines
Ordering parts need advice regarding linear rail - 3 years ago
Greetings! I have some 600mm Misumi 1515 Aluminum extrusion for my delta. I just ordered 500mm MGN12H Linear rails. I am not sure what length bolt and what size T-nut to order to mount the linear rail? Any advice! Thanks Maxby disneytoy - Delta Machines
Re: A new, smaller sand table mechanism: Arrakis - 3 years ago
I originally wanted to build a round Sandbot. I think that may be a scam site. The price is way too low. I think I saw a similar kickstarter in a couple hundred range.by disneytoy - CoreXY Machines
Re: A new, smaller sand table mechanism: Arrakis - 3 years ago
Great info my friend!!! I ordered the magnet! Do you have a pic of how you mounted your magnet. It seems very strong and I'm assuming you need to trap it well. About how deep layer of sand? What size ball bearing do you use? I'm going to start ordering the parts! Thanks Maxby disneytoy - CoreXY Machines
Re: A new, smaller sand table mechanism: Arrakis - 3 years ago
Greetings! I've wanted a sand table for a long time. I'm in the processes of building a 500x500mm CoreXY plotter. I could repurpose it as a sand table. So I don't reinvent the wheel:-) Your videos look great! My cat would love this:-) What magnet size are you using? Ball bearing? Where are you getting your sand? I saw another youtube video and the kid had issues and had to try different saby disneytoy - CoreXY Machines
Re: Any experince with Titan Extruder and Volcano hotends? - 5 years ago
Thanks!by disneytoy - Delta Machines
Any experince with Titan Extruder and Volcano hotends? - 5 years ago
Need advice. I want to print 3mm PLA or PETG with a 2mm nozzle. This won't be on a printer but a robotic arm. I was thinking of a Titan Extruder "clone", and a Volcano hotend. I have 24v PSU. Oddly, I can find regular 2mm nozzles for Creality, but only up to 1.2mm for Volcano. I'll keep looking. So, I don't waste money on the wrong parts, Does the Volcano hotend work with both 1.75mm and 3mm?by disneytoy - Delta Machines
Re: Donut shaped polar printer? - 6 years ago
Hello dc42! I can buy a Duet. This is a very large scale clay printer. The center Z axis in the middle and a straight arm (gantry giving a max radius of 36") The inner "Donut hole" occupies a 12" radius (non build able area). I've read the mathematics of going from Cartesian G-code to Polar Radius + distance. Doesn't sound to complex for the firmware to calculate. I think Scara is more complicaby disneytoy - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Donut shaped polar printer? - 6 years ago
Hello! I'm working on I guess a polar printer. But the build area is a donut. The z axis is in the center of the circle. And the X arm rotates 360 degrees. I see most Polar printers have the Z axis outside of the circle. But I'm thinking the same commands would apply. You still have a radius and distance. Is there any firmware for my style Polar printer? Thanks Maxby disneytoy - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Proper distance between Z axis Smooth Rod and threaded rod? - 7 years ago
Gang! Having issues with my Z-axis. I borrowed a caliper and measured the gap between the Z-axis Smooth rod (8mm) and the T8 Threaded rod. TOP 8.82mm ------------------------- 8.89mm At X-axis nut 9.73mm ------------------------- 9.38mm BOTTOM At Coupler 9.37mm -------------------------- 8.85mm What is the tolerances? And what should it be?by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Prusa Mk2 Clone, Z-axis not going to the top. - 7 years ago
Hi Gang! I'm trying to get my Prusa MK2 clone working. I have on my Z axis 8mm smooth rods and T8 Acme screws. At the top I have the bracket with a bearing to hold the threaded rod. The Motors were skipping as I try to send it up. I am trying to manually rotate the motors (power off) and I'm binding an inch or two from the top. Any thought on how to fix this? At least to my eyes and a rulerby disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Aluminum Bed Thickness for Inductive sensors? - 7 years ago
Thanks guys! Then I will stick with my glass and i have a Strain sensor for my nozzle on order. My Inductive sensor is rated at 2mm. So not much room for error.by disneytoy - General
Aluminum Bed Thickness for Inductive sensors? - 7 years ago
So, My Prusa clone has one of those red PCB heated beds, and I have a piece of glass over it. I want to use an Inductive sensor. I was going to order an all aluminum bed. I can get a great price on a 2mm thick one. But would a 3mm work better? Thanks!by disneytoy - General
Re: 2 Z-motors not always moving in sync? - 7 years ago
Makes sense MKSA. But I don't have a printer to make parts. I'll put your modification on my list. Thanksby disneytoy - General
Re: 2 Z-motors not always moving in sync? - 7 years ago
Should I replace the drv8825 with a a4988? I have one. I just though the drv8825 was more accurate. 1/32 stepping. Increasing the current wont help? Thanksby disneytoy - General
2 Z-motors not always moving in sync? - 7 years ago
Heloo! So I built a Prusa MK2 clone from scratch. I have 8mm Acme threaded rods on my Z-axis. Both motors connect to a single DRV8825 driver on Ramps 1.4. Latest Marlin Firmware. The left motor nearest the Ramps seems to work fine, But the right motor, farthest from the Ramps some times hesitates and throws the level off. But not always. I tuned the drivers per a video I saw. So any thoughtby disneytoy - General
Cheap Piezo Z-Probe Sensor and Marlin - 7 years ago
While I am waiting for a new Proximity sensor for my Prusa Clone to arrive. I saw on Aliexpress they have a Piezo20 Z-Probe Sensor. A small piezo that is hand fitted to your nozzle which senses the impact "touch" on the bed. Question, Running latest Marlin, how would I implement this? I can wire it to the z endstop. But since this must be run with the nozzle cold, and after calibration, removedby disneytoy - General
Re: Inductive sensor (Z-axis) is not triggering Ramps? - 7 years ago
Thanks Robert, I was just reading about pull up resistors. I will give it a try.by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Inductive sensor (Z-axis) is not triggering Ramps? - 7 years ago
I tried wiring the + and ground to 12volt rail. The signal shows 2.85v and when the LED is triggered 0 volts. This is completely off the ramps, just to power and voltmeter. Any thoughts? My power supply reads 12.45v on the input.by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Inductive sensor (Z-axis) is not triggering Ramps? - 7 years ago
I'll try 12 volts and see if I get more than 2v on the signalby disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Inductive sensor (Z-axis) is not triggering Ramps? - 7 years ago
It says: M8 2mm sensing DC 5v Inductive Proximity Sensor NPN NO LJ8A3-2-Z/BX-5V It was the model recommended. Thanks --------------------------- UPDATE: I just used a Multimeter and with the sensor regular, it shows +2v on the signal pin. When I trigger it with metal, (LED ON) it goes to zero. Any thoughts? (I do believe I have PULLUP resistors turned on in Marlins.by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Inductive sensor (Z-axis) is not triggering Ramps? - 7 years ago
Okay, I have an inductive sensor mounted and wired to my ramps for the z axis (Z_MIN). If I put metal close to the sensor I see the red LED light up on the sensor, so It is getting power and working. The signal pin is connected to the signal (Z_MIN). But when I check the state of my endstops (M119), it only shows open. Both with the red led on or off. I don't know enough about pull up resistorsby disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Advice on Heatsinks on stepper drivers - 7 years ago
I'm on the last couple of my punch list on mu Prusa MK2 clone. I have DRV8825, and need to attach the heatsinks. The ones I have don't have tape. So I need to glue them with Blue loctite. The problem is the heatsink comes really close to the pins on both sides. Any tips on not shorting those pins? The drivers are already wired in, so I don't want to remove them. Just wondered if anyone has a tby disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Help: Beginner question Homing Direction and end stops - 7 years ago
Thanks everyone, That was the trick!by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Help: Beginner question Homing Direction and end stops - 7 years ago
Looks like what I have? / Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN // :[-1,1] #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 When you hit Y+ it should go back? Correct? I don't want to switch the motor cable if that is okay.by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Help: Beginner question Homing Direction and end stops - 7 years ago
Latest Marlin.by disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Help: Beginner question Homing Direction and end stops - 7 years ago
Hello! I'm finishing a Prusa MK2 clone. My end stops are (Normally open): X = Left side Y = Rear Z = Inductive sensor In Pronterface, if I hit X home, it correctly goes to the left and hits the end switch. But if I hit the Y axis HOME it goes forward. So: X+ goes to the right Y+ goes to the back Z+ goes up Any thought. Thanks Maxby disneytoy - Prusa i3 and variants