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Designs that do not fit in other categories. Previously named "New RepStraps and Post Mendel"
Re: Ostensibly-named J-Head V6 - 9 years ago
QuoteJ-Max Hi guys, Only the E3D Lite6 uses a PTFE tubing inside the hotend. Genuine E3D V6 are full metal. Sources are online, you don't need to get one to copy. Obvioulsy, Jhead is unproperly used in the name. Sometimes you can read "Jhead E3D Hexagon V6", but it's all about E3D's alike hotends. It's just to get more matches on searchs. ++JM The 1.75 mm versions of the E3D v6 use a PTFE liby vegasloki - General New Machines Topics
Re: Nuts/Bolts/Washers needed for vanila Prusa i3? - 9 years ago
Here's a BOM for vanilla i3 single plate that I've been using for a few years now. The BOM has been used on over 1000 builds. 12 x M10-1.50 nut, zinc 12 x M10 flat washer, zinc 34 x M8-1.25 nut, zinc 34 x M8 flat washer, zinc 4 x M5-0.8 nut, zinc 50 x M3-0.5 nut, zinc 50 x M3 flat washer, zinc 12 x M3-0.5 nyloc nut, zinc 24 x M3-0.5 x 10mm socket head cap screw, black oxide 10 x M3-0.5 x 15by vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Source for T-nuts/Slotted nuts, or work around? - 9 years ago
Misumi has a couple of different T slot nuts as does Openbuilds. You can also find them on Aliexpress but the parts I've seen aren't any less expensive than Misumi.by vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: firmware disaster - 9 years ago
The Arduino IDE isn't connecting. That's what the error message means. Could be something as easy as you have another port connected to the board or not having the right port selected in the Arduino IDE selected. Worst case something has happened and the Arduino has failed. Quit any apps that may be using that port, like your printer host software, make sure the Arduino IDE has the right portby vegasloki - General
Re: 8mm linear shaft - 9 years ago
Quotedavedavedave @Vegasloki Hey man thanks for the info, much appreciated, I will def buy a good bandsaw once I get the funds. its necessary for me to have my own tools now. also, for the link you posted above with the 3/32 chop saw blades, just to make sure. do they cut the 8 mil steel shafts? or are those for the aluminum? if theyre for steel then that's what im going to get per your recommenby vegasloki - General
Re: Are you going upgrade to Windows 10 - 9 years ago
QuoteMutley3D wow can you feel the lurv in this thread Printing from SD is great. Printing from a PC is great. If you have issues with either, you are doing something wrong. Post a question to your relative issue under a relative title ie "problems printing with SD Card" etc, and you will get good answers. If printing from a PC turn off all auto updates/auto sleep/auto update etc so the machinby vegasloki - General
Re: 8mm linear shaft - 9 years ago
Quotedavedavedave So for the chop saw, the blades can cut steel and the cobalt is good for drilling aluminum then. Also i wanted to buy a bandsaw and looked around but couldnt find any that cut metal for under 200. I know they can be altered but usually its a lot of work or very tricky at the least The least expensive way to a decent, small band saw that has the capablitiy to cut metal properly iby vegasloki - General
Re: Are you going upgrade to Windows 10 - 9 years ago
Quotetadawson Impossible unless you are stupid enough to screw with it while a job is running, and not that different than pulling out an SD card. That is not a technology limitation, that is user error, and dumbing things down because people won't (or can't) think is not a solution - it just creates and coddles more idiots . . . I've said it prior, and I will reiterate: the chance of a failedby vegasloki - General
Re: 8mm linear shaft - 9 years ago
An abrasive chop saw with a 3/32 reinforced blade is what we use in the shop to cut hardened material. We use these blades There are less expensive blades but they don't last as along but you'll be OK with a less expensive blade as long as you take your time. Go slow, don't force it, let the material cool if it starts to glow. As noted by others, abrasive saws aren't suitable for aluminum.by vegasloki - General
Re: cheapst place for simplify 3d - 9 years ago
QuoteFeign Now I work at a place that uses GeoMagic for $909 per seat, and it is 99.9% as powerful. Alibre is good, I have an older copy of PE. Depending on the industry it may not come close to offering enough features. With 3DS buying Alibre a few years ago and rebranding to Geomagic there has been a big push toward 3D printing and for most it's well feature packed for that app. Overkill foby vegasloki - General
Re: Does the Hotend Make Much of a Difference - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Until someone actually runs a well-controlled test, all arguments on either side are just blowing smoke. It doesn't get any more controlled than running different hot ends on the same machine with the same material for a day or two each (if they can make it that long). This includes most all the US/Euro name brands and several of the import clones and knock offs. I'by vegasloki - General
Re: FolgerTech i3 Prusa Power Supply? - 9 years ago
TRC is the US stocking distributor for Meanwell power supplies. Some of the best in the business, good support with warranty.by vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Does the Hotend Make Much of a Difference - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist All those things speak to reliability, not print quality, which is what the OP was asking about. I suppose actually finishing a print can be considered a quality issue, but for me print quality is about the surface finish, and accuracy of size and shape. None of those are affected much by the hot end. I think the drive mechanism that pushes the filament into the hot enby vegasloki - General
Re: cheapst place for simplify 3d - 9 years ago
QuoteKurzaa I almost suggested for someone to slice some test objects to share. I was thinking some of the more common test objects like Aria the Dragon or Benchy the Tugboat, but wasn't sure how feasible it would be. Thanks for volunteering DownUnder35M. Indeed, Benchy is a more realistic/real world application. The dragon, while cool, is going to take a well tuned printer finish (and 3-4 hourby vegasloki - General
Re: cheapst place for simplify 3d - 9 years ago
Three kg a week for a single prosumer machine isn't realistic. We run four machines 12-14 hours a day 5-6 days a week most week and still are able to use about 15 kg of material a month. I sliced that dragon at 23.3 MB file size Mac Os 10.9, 3.0 Ghz i5, 16 GB ram, writing to Samsung Pro 256 SSD sliced for .4 nozzle, 195*, .3 layers, 40% infill, 70 mm/s Slic3r 1.2.9 47 sec load 35 sec expby vegasloki - General
Re: cheapst place for simplify 3d - 9 years ago
QuoteDownunder35m However, on a 2000$ + printer and using a few kg of filamant every week you will soon see the benefit and just laugh about the 150$ price tag - even I do and I don't buy filament that often. What are you printing on a single machine that uses "a few" kilos of material a week?by vegasloki - General
Re: Does the Hotend Make Much of a Difference - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist The hot end is either going to work or it isn't. You won't see any difference in print quality from one to another. You may see a difference in print quality depending on the nozzle size, layer height, and the object you're printing. If you have a hot-end that works and you're looking to improve print quality, look elsewhere. Print quality is affected by things like fby vegasloki - General
Re: Geeetech i3 pro B issues and questions - 9 years ago
Quotesarf2k4 To measure nozzle diameter, extrude the plastic at very slow rate at about 1mm/s. Also ensure that you already used the correct extruder step value. Once you're done extruding, measure it with caliper Good post. With the variance in plastics composition and how they each cool and measuring tools it's going to be a challenge to get an accurate reading with a .1 mm window of toleraby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Geeetech i3 pro B issues and questions - 9 years ago
Tom's Guides are good. Here is one for firmware Don't do anything else until you fix that as extrusion steps are a key to getting consistent material deposition. As a rule don't measure the raw material extruded. Instead print a calibration piece with known dims and use that as a basis to guage how accurate your machine might be. The Wiki here and other places have cal parts and methods.by vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Cant Connect To Prusa I3? PLEAS HELP! - 9 years ago
Quote32bitbrad Hey, everyone. So i Buit my SunHokey Prusa I3 today and all the mechanics work. However when i connect it to my windows 8.1 computer, i cant connect in Repetier-host. I've tried following the driver instructions that came with the printer but they change nothing. The Printer shows up as a 'FT232R USB UART' under devices and printer in windows, but thats about all i know. In my deviby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Does the Hotend Make Much of a Difference - 9 years ago
The hot end is one of the single most critical components on your machine, if not the most. The quality of the non name brand imports can be pretty dicey. Get as good a hot end as you can afford.by vegasloki - General
Re: cheapst place for simplify 3d - 9 years ago
Quotetrist077 as the title suggests and is it worth it any reviews You only get it at one place and that's the price you pay. Search around the forums here and several of us have posted thoughts/reviews. Quotekengineer I come from manufacturing, the people I work for drop $15,000.00 or $20,000.00 per seat for the software we use to get the job done. I am thinking Mastercam, Pro-e, or solid wby vegasloki - General
Re: Disadvantages of acrylic frames - 9 years ago
I cut some 10 ga steel single plate frames last year. A 10 ga thickness is about 1/8", just a shade thicker. Over here steel that thin is sized in gauge. It's still a bit heavy compared to aluminum, particularly the bed but not too heavy to use. I used a CNC plasma for the steel. It's quick and cheap. About the same cycle time cost per minute as CO2 laser on engineered wood product or poly cby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Extended i3 Rework Z endstop bracket for E3D v6 Lite - 9 years ago
If you are using an E3D v6 Lite on your stock i3 Rework the Z endstop bracket might not be tall enough. An E3D v6 Lite is about 5 mm longer than a stock JHead. I used Meshmixer to extend the the height of the bracket. All other dims are the same. It is also compatabile with non Lite E3D v6 assemblies. File is available in STL hereby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: X-ends without support? - 9 years ago
I print stock Rework X ends (from the bq repo), both sides, with no support. You may need to tune your bridging and for the the lower angular part of the upper motor mount hole can get a bit deformed. There is a modified X idler end with a belt tensioner where I have to use support. One place the Simplify 3D really shines is the abiity to edit the support or add it by hand. The downside is thby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Disadvantages of acrylic frames - 9 years ago
Melamine works well particularly for the cost. The laminate makes it far less susceptible to issues with other engineered wood products. I've got some here with heavy duty cycles for more than a year and still going strong. ACP (Dibond's generic name) is outstanding. The drawback being you have to use a CNC router or waterjet to cut it. If you are handy you could hand cut it but like evenby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Aluminum or Acrylic i3 - 9 years ago
A stock i3 or i3 Rework can produce good parts. The issue with regards to frame and assembly flex/vibration isn't so much the material of the frame (though that matters), it's the fact the design is only attached to that frame in two places, as with a single plate design or in the case of the Graber style acrylic or melamine frames four points. The objective is not so much stiff material, as itby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: i3 Rework variant, no threaded rod frame - 9 years ago
Thanks for the comments. I used the Rework as a variant as it uses the same geometry and printed motion parts for the X but with a Graber frame. I see the point about how it could derive more from the Graber or at least 50/50. To be fair I think I'll mention both and while it is different than either of those, I'd like to make sure that Jo, Shane and the gang at bq and the others get the nod bby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
i3 Rework variant, no threaded rod frame - 9 years ago
I've put together a new i3 Rework variant. I've had a couple of prototypes running for about a month. It can easily print 100 micron layers and I've used the machine at 60 microns. At 300 microns I've been printing at 100 mm/sec with a .4 nozzle easily.(I plan to test it at faster speeds with a larger nozzle) It's a mashup using the basic design of the Graber i3 frame (with some mods to the sizby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Patent Infringement on new CLIP technology - 9 years ago
Quoteggherbaz As long as you do not sell or profit in any way from it you won't be breaking any rules. The minute you receive a penny from it, you better have a nice lawyer and plenty of money. Under US law the use of patented IP even for personal use is not allowed without permission of the patent holder. ON EDIT: From the USPTO, emphasis mine QuoteThe right conferred by the patent grant iby vegasloki - General