The 'Genie' slide as hot knifes trough butter.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Yea probably a clone. What about the Genie Hotend? When you buy a hotend direct from the designer then you have a few advantages that are well worth the price difference. Have a look here on the forum there are many post that discuss this hotend. I'm very satisfied with it myselfby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
:-) clever stuff Cliff! Looking at the video's now. and putting your printer on the list.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
How does the filament actually wind on this spool? Far as i know a squared core allows nicer winding of the coil then a sloped core. Less air, smoother unwinding. But i'm speaking from a copperwire background, i never had a plastic filament spool with a sloped core so i'm looking forward to the first physical proto. I like the stackable design, the size, eco awareness etc.by BackEMF - Printing
I have both actually. The mk2 I have not used yet. When I build build second machine it turned out to be easier to put the mk1 on. Both hotend's are build the same way, the mk2 is a shorter so on the SmartRap that will give you a few cm of extra build height. Compared to the Huxley hotend it heats up faster, stays at temperature more consistently, and I was able to print at higher speeds. Allby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Hi Loidor, I'm using Regs Genie hotend (and i'm very pleased with it) I'm cooling it with a 12V fan constant on 5V. This cools enough and doesn't make any noise. Mine has Kapton wrap, it can probably be build without Kapton but for me it's ok with the kapton Shipping from Australia to the Netherlands was $18 and it took a few weeks.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Please give me a sign when when they are available. At what price are you going to sell them?by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Hi Rich, Do you have any idea what spool size is currently the most used? Changing a spool standard should also be made more easy for the smaller industries, else the big ones just use it to make their monopoly status higher. You have quiet some responsibility here. :-)by BackEMF - Printing
I had a bad experience with LM8UU, when the rods are not 100% parallel then the pressure on the bearings causes damage, bushings make a lot of sense to me. 600hours seems a good lifetime already. Less damage, less noise, smooth operation. Well, let me place an order! I like to give it a try.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
It depends on how you approach it, i kinda like the idea of a printer that is going to be upgraded after a year or 2. The speed of technology is fast enough to have a better machine when you upgrade to a new one, and recycle electronics and rods of the old one. in my opinion thats just as expensive as buying an expensive machine that needs to work 10 years to make itself pay back, but that exby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
why not use GT2 belt?by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
76 percent 3D printer owners report high daily & weekly usage, finds new CEA study The header seems to be a bit hyped up, since I can't actually find it in the report. Or is this just a media trick of make-believe?by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
So initial layer height default should be the same as the global layer height? I come to this because when it is set to 0 the brim disappears. This also seems to be linked to the z.offset in a less logical way. When I initial layer height to 0 then i also need to add 0.2 to the z-offset to actually make it work That's what's not logical about it... I'm back to Cura 14.07 since 14.09 crashes aby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
That's an interesting idea that i sure want to try. looks like that coupling does something similair, but then with a plastic 'spacer'. It would eventually be printable aswell. And what about setting the Z drive shaft in bearings? this way the shaft cant wobble, but the coupling has to be flexible to compensate for misalignment.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
that sounds ok. there are so many different motor specs that it is still not easy to be 100% sure.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Quoteloidor Oooh, now I found motors with the same dimensions (40mm body and 24mm shaft) with a torque of 0.94 Nm... Might opt for one of them for extruder, then How much current do they consume? and are your pololus up for that task?by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Not knowing what the weight is of your repstrap 0.34 NM will be fine for horizontal axis. if the weight aint to much then you could use them also for the Z-axis What kind of extruder do you have in mind? A geared extruder can do with less powerful motor, a direct drive extruder needs more power. If the motors are not to pricey it's always worth a try, you will most likely need more motors in tby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
I'm trying to figure out how to set up things to correctly print a brim. Currently when i print without a brim allis fine though occasionally a corner comes loose and curls, so i want to print a brim around larger objects to prevent this. However when i activate brim in cura no brim is being printed Initial layer height is set to 0 because the fist layer is way to thick when i set it to 0.2 Buby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
I found that there are many differences in PVA glue per brand, currently I use Bison D2 (in a mixture of 75% water 25% PVA) and that works exellent for me.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
The 4mm aquarium air-tube still worked best for me, as it is rigid enough to do the work and flexible enough in regard to the wobble. On my first smartrap the M5 rod also seems to be more straight. (i still need to replace the rod on the new one) Also, i'm wondering about the hotend PID settings you are using and what type/brand of PLA that you used for the grey cubes.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
I now print about 10 hours per week if I keep up this rate. I'm also interested in the average working hours / lifespan of a printer.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Most likely you only use one extruder, and have an extra fan connected instead of extruder2 And Serge also has all of this already documented on his website.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
I try to stay with 5mm, on my first smartrap i have almost no wobble, so it should be possible (also 5mm) The main reason why i think 5mm is the 'more simple' way to go is because the steppers shaft is also 5mm Another way to reduce wobble might be one of these: the flexible connection might do the trick. If ithe prices aren't too extreme. And what about printing a flexible coupling?by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF The wobble, is it in your case caused by an off-center ax coupler, or is the rod itself a bit bend? (or a bit of both?) Very likely a bit of both, and for sure an off-center ax coupler. I may try to print it again with a bit more care about orthogonality... I'm having similair wobble issues on my new build. and it seems also be a combination of the two. For now i managed to compby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Hi Cristian, The wobble, is it in your case caused by an off-center ax coupler, or is the rod itself a bit bend? (or a bit of both?)by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
I'm building my second Smartrap and I see several firmwares in the Github repo. What are the main differences? EDIT: additional question. Is anyone using a default Marlin from the Erik Zalm repo?by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Hm my take on this: LM8UU make noise the grease on the rods is not all that desktop friendly So Delrin sounds good to me. It seems to be an issue when the rods are not 100% parallel, then the LM8UU start to lock and scratch the rods, I gooled and found a few other printers with damaged rods some blamed it on bad Chinese bearings (though that was not all that convincing) And one person measuredby BackEMF - Smart_Rap
Yessss, it's best to connect the hotend cooling fan straight to the Powerline and use the variable fan output to control the fan that blows on the printed object. It's not just best, it's the way it was meant to be.by BackEMF - Smart_Rap
so then you can place the fan at the end of the printbed and still have enough airflow. You can print one, or just buy one very cheap and assembled from Chinaby BackEMF - Smart_Rap